In late September, 2018, I hiked for eleven days along the E5 long-distance hiking trail. If you walk the whole thing, it starts off on the West Coast of France and takes you all the way to Verona in Italy, but when people talk about walking the E5, they mean they âhiked from Oberstdorf in Germany, to Meran in the North of Italyâ. That piece is referred to as the KernstĂŒck in German, the âcore pieceâ.
Thatâs kinda what I walked, but also kinda not. The âstandard tourâ involves a bus in the middle to skip two days of valley walking through the Pitztal, but that valley walking was really nice, and with good KasespĂ€ztle, if comparatively unspectacular. My original plan was to go all the way to Trento, to visit a friend who was living there at the time â but I didnât make it that far, either. After a week, I decided that a few more days would be enough, and went home after eleven days to tinker on projects and catch up on life a little, and, yâknow, I missed my friends.
But. They were a very beautiful eleven days. Maybe Iâll fill this post in with more details later â I still have stories to tell about âFernwanderwege being the best German school you could ask forâ, electric fences being the work of Satan himself, finally coming to appreciate Radler, and being licked by cows. In the meantime, here are some photos from the path.

Day 1: the Kemptner HĂŒtte, where I slept the first night.

Day 2: Bach im Lechtal, Austria

Day 3: This route is famous enough that you start every day with a group of people, spread out over the course of the day, and then meet up again in the hut on the other side.

Back down out of a secret forest on the side of a mountain into Zams.

Night view from the Venet GipfelhĂŒtte.

Day 4, from the Kreuzjoch. On the right, the Pitztal. On the left, the Inntal.

Day 5. There are big-ass cows with big-ass horns floating around everywhere on the trail through the Pitztal, and signs saying âdonât get too close to the cows, they sometimes get defensive.â đ

Day 6, a morning by the river in the Pitztal.
I canât remember if the light was really this yellow or I just overedited the photo.

Out the other end of the Pitztal, and back up the mountain. This waterfall, that river, its source is all in a glacier.

At the top, old snow and the glacier.

⊠and where weâre staying the night, the Braunschweiger HĂŒtte.

Day 7, mountain portraits.
The ĂuĂere Schwarze Schneid
(lit, âOuter Black Blade-edgeâ).


Trailmarkers

Back down, towards Sölden, through a skifield

The fox, at the Löple Alm

GUEST RACE
Every Friday, start 1p

Day 8, Kai and Christoff and one of the cows that licked me

Crossing into Italy

Somewhere in the Passeiertal

Day 8: (suspicious cat noises)

Day 9: Up to the peak

After 9 days, a fully-integrated mountain man, on the Hirzer Peak

Day 10: classic South-Tirol hiking landscape



The Dolomites in the distance, I think.