In 1985, the Italian government passed a law establishing a legal framework for farmers to offer hospitality services, with the aim of protecting rural and agricultural heritage while helping struggling farms diversify their income.

The law unleashed the first wave of ‘agriturismo’.

Its effects were felt most strongly in Tuscany, where historic wine estates and olive farms began to open their gates to visitors, transforming centuries-old agricultural properties into experiential destinations.

Agriturismo is ‘actually really old’, says Mania Castelli. ‘It was abused for many years and now it’s coming back properly.’

Castelli runs La Torre alle Tolfe, a 700-year-old wine estate near Siena in Tuscany – part of the modern, ‘new wave’ of agriturismo.

While tax benefits and simplified bureaucracy made the agriturismo label attractive to people who weren’t actually farmers, this new wave is agricentric.

La Torre alle Tolfe exemplifies this.

Castelli, a veterinarian who returned to run the family property in 2015, now runs a working wine and olive oil estate that integrates hospitality, agricultural education and regenerative farming practices.

Authentic experiences

Like Castelli, Alessandro Varagnolo – owner of Cadgal, a winery and agriturismo in Piedmont (pictured, above) – thinks the key to successful agriturismo is staying true to its agricultural roots.

‘Here,’ he says, referring to Cadgal’s location between Langhe and Monferrato, ‘vineyards are not just a backdrop for tourism, but an active part of everyday life and work.’

Today, Cadgal offers a B&B experience with breakfast prepared using local produce, wine tasting, horse riding and more. ‘It’s a genuine connection to wine, land and people,’ he says, ‘rather than a standardised tourism product.’

Capitalising on the tourism boom, today’s agriturismo model gives wineries an opportunity to share their area’s heritage and winemaking traditions with visitors from around the world.

‘We have to do something to tell our stories, especially if we’re small,’ Castelli says. ‘People coming to your farm is much more powerful than any kind of internet or social media [exposure].’

Castelli notes that another driver of the new wave of agriturismo is the fact that many wine producers are trying to diversify their income streams in today’s climate of market instability and extreme vintage conditions.

This is particularly powerful when direct sales can achieve the same margins as exporting far larger volumes.

Strength in diversity

But for Elisa De Lulis of legendary biodynamic estate Emidio Pepe in Abruzzo, it isn’t about money.

‘For us, diversifying into agriturismo was never about following a market trend or seeking a simple revenue stream,’ she says.

‘It was a natural, almost inevitable, extension of our winemaking philosophy. We realised that the best way to communicate and protect our heritage was to let people see it with their own eyes.’

Regional differences shape the form agriturismo takes.

De Lulis describes Abruzzo, a region located between the Gran Sasso massif and the Adriatic sea, as ‘wild, rugged and profoundly honest’.

She explains: ‘Unlike other more manicured Italian regions, our agriturismo scene is still deeply rooted in true peasant culture. Guests here can experience a biodiversity that is still intact and spontaneous.’

In Piedmont’s rolling hills, where tourism is more advanced, different agricultural sectors feed into one another.

Truffles and hazelnuts are part of the same cultural ecosystem as wine, creating what Varagnolo calls ‘slow, experiential tourism’.

As for Tuscany, the region that experienced a tourism renaissance in the late 1980s and early ’90s, when the agriturismo movement was first taking shape, wineries face a different set of considerations.

‘The word Tuscany helps you, in the sense that it attracts,’ reflects Castelli. ‘On the other hand, there’s a lot of competition.’ And high expectations.

Rather than competing in isolation, producers recommend tourists visit each other’s wineries, sell each other’s olive oils and create wine trails across regional lines.

‘Our mission is not individualistic,’ Castelli explains. ‘We’re just trying to contribute to a much bigger cause.’

Looking ahead, she envisions farms integrating tourism, education and ecological restoration into their operations, with each property shaped by its unique landscape and history.

‘Every place is different,’ she says, ‘so there’s much less competition once you do that.’

Five new-wave wine-country properties to visit

Cadgal

Piedmont

cadgal.it

Alessandro Varagnolo runs Tenuta Valdivilla and Tenuta La Cova, two agriturismo estates between Langhe and Monferrato, where he has built a business around what he calls ‘genuine, familiar hospitality’.

When he took over the properties, one already operated as an agriturismo; the other he immediately expanded.

‘From the very beginning, I strongly believed in wine tourism as a key driver for the future,’ he says.

Guests can stay in B&B accommodation with homemade breakfast prepared using local products.

Wine experiences centre around the estates’ signature Moscato variety and tastings of their most representative bottles.

Guided vineyard walks trace the journey from vine to bottle, while partnerships offer truffle hunting, horse riding and e-bike rentals in the surrounding hills.

According to Varagnolo, the model works because guests develop connections, which more often than not means they return after their first visit.

‘People become emotionally involved with the place, the wines and the people behind them,’ he says. ‘That level of loyalty is something you don’t always expect.’

Cascina Degli Ulivi

Gavi

cascinadegliulivi.it

Zita and Stefano Bellotti opened Cascina Degli Ulivi’s agriturismo in 1998 to introduce guests to the winery and its natural wines.

Today, daughter Ilaria Bellotti runs four rooms – all built using bio-construction methods – with 12 beds in the Gavi area.

The farm-to-table restaurant serves lunch on weekends and dinner from Wednesday through Saturday, using ingredients harvested directly from their biodynamic gardens.

Guests tour vineyards and the cellar, walk scenic trails through the Piedmont hills and participate in educational grape harvests. Many young people come specifically for the harvest experience.

The agriturismo generates direct income while building lasting connections with customers who experience the estate’s philosophy first hand.

‘We’re very well known in the world of natural wine,’ Ilaria says, ‘and people want to see where it’s produced.

Valleponci

Liguria

valleponci.it

In contrast to the more familiar, family-run properties, Valleponci emerged with a different origin story: five friends who met while studying food ecology at the Slow Food movement’s University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont, united by a vision of ‘using food as a tool to reactivate local economies and regenerate the landscape’, according to one of Valleponci’s co-founders, Gianluca Demarchi.

Unable to secure traditional financing for the 50ha property near Finale Ligure, on the coast west of Genoa, they created a cooperative model in 2021, selling shares to about 70 investors who became co-owners with annual credits to visit.

After two and a half years of fundraising, they had their first season in 2024.

Today, an international team of up to 18 people representing eight nationalities runs four bedrooms, two apartments and a restaurant that can cater to up to 70 guests.

The restaurant reflects the network they’re building.

While 90% of the ingredients come from their regenerative vegetable gardens and Korean natural farming practices, the rest is sourced from nearby producers.

The menu blends regional Ligurian ingredients with international influences such as Nordic ferments and Middle Eastern spices.

Two hectares of vines in the humid, forested valley produce a Pigato (Vermentino) white blend and a Granaccia (Grenache) red, plus a pét-nat made using Barbera sourced from friends in Piedmont. But hospitality serves a larger purpose:

‘At the very core of our model is the cultural development of the farm,’ which Demarchi explains means publications, university partnerships and educational programs.

La Torre alle Tolfe

Tuscany

latorrealletolfe.com

Mania Castelli returned from the UK in 2015 to revive her family’s 700-year-old property near Siena, creating a 54-bed hotel and restaurant that serves up to 10,000 guests annually, alongside 13ha of regeneratively farmed vineyards and 17ha of olive groves.

Guests can join morning and evening animal feeding rounds, tour underground passages and an eighth-century tower, and participate in a variety of agricultural courses.

The property also runs a social agriculture project – a permaculture vegetable garden employing people with autism – where breakfast eggshells become compost, grape skins mix with biochar from olive prunings, and animals that graze the vineyards double as educational encounters.

‘We don’t talk about tourists, we talk about visitors who join our community,’ Castelli says.

But if that all sounds a little serious, there’s ample space to indulge and relax, too.

The restaurant menu reads like a map of the property. Alongside wines from the estate’s cellar, they serve up dishes such as hand-cut pici with Sienese garlic from the vegetable beds, and guinea fowl stuffed with cinta senese (a local heritage-breed pig) sausage and wild herbs.

Guests can engage as deeply as they want, or simply enjoy the landscape over an organic Tuscan feast.

Emidio Pepe

Abruzzo

emidiopepe.com

‘Our agriturismo is, above all, a reflection of our family’s DNA,’ says Elisa De Lulis, third-generation member of the Emidio Pepe winemaking family in Abruzzo.

‘We are a large, close-knit family, and our hospitality is rooted in the way we live every day – the decision to formally open the agriturismo was the idea of making it an extension of our home.’

Launched in 2020, the agriturismo offering has evolved from accommodation into something far deeper.

With eight rooms and a restaurant that can serve 30 guests four to five times a week, it offers privileged access to the Emidio Pepe universe: the historic wine library, artisanal winemaking traditions and a working farm where ancient grains grow alongside organic vegetable gardens. A stone mill and bakery are on the way, too.

‘We don’t offer a curated “tourist version” of farm life; we offer the life itself,’ De Lulis explains.

The restaurant – run by chefs Giuseppe Polzinetti and Jonathan Maravalli in collaboration with gardener Martina Pasqualini – serves a tasting menu that changes near-daily, dictated by what’s available. De Lulis curates wine pairings featuring rare vintages from the family’s cellar.

It’s a closed-loop ecosystem: the same biodynamic soil that nourishes the vines produces the vegetables on guests’ plates.

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Albariño is lovingly known as 'the wine of the sea' in its birthplace, the rain-lashed Atlantic coast of north-west Iberia. Locals have enjoyed it with seafood dishes for centuries, but Albariño is no longer a well-kept Spanish secret.

This popular grape has emerged as one of the wine world’s great success stories, and it’s now thriving everywhere from Portugal and California to New Zealand and even England.

Why is International Albariño Day on August 1?

The date is a nod to the grape’s spiritual home. Every year, the Galician town of Cambados hosts the Fiesta del Albariño, a week-long festival of tastings, concerts and fireworks that culminates on the first Sunday of August.

This festival now draws crowds of around 150,000 people, but the party has surprisingly humble origins. In 1953, two local growers challenged each other to a friendly contest to decide whose wine from the previous vintage was the best.

Bernardino Quintanilla was a Vigo-based lawyer who tended a small Albariño vineyard that produced just a handful of bottles. His friend, Ernesto Zárate, was a local landowner and a far more experienced winemaker in the Salnés Valley.

Quintanilla, Zárate and seven other growers presented their wines at a dinner in a friend’s garden. The menu was suitably absurd: 28 kilos of lobster, six chickens, piles of crabs, nine bottles of Champagne and 32 litres of local red wine to wash down the Albariño they were supposedly there to judge.

After the blind tasting, the votes were tallied, and neither man won. The victor was José Rodiño, a farmer from the neighbouring town of Carballal, who wasn’t nearly as wealthy as his competitors. A rematch took place the following year, and this time Zárate won, with Quintanilla finishing second.

The rematch became an annual tradition, the tradition became a festival, and the festival helped propel Albariño to worldwide fame. International Albariño Day, which falls during the celebrations, invites the rest of the world to join in.

Monks, myths and the Camino

As with many great grapes, legend long clouded Albariño’s true origins. The romantic version held that medieval monks carried the grape to Galicia from France or Germany along the Camino de Santiago pilgrim route. Modern research tells a different story: Albariño is a true native of the Iberian Peninsula, cultivated in the region for centuries – possibly as far back as the 12th century.

Its heartland is Rías Baixas, the Denominación de Origen established in 1988 along Galicia’s fjord-like Atlantic inlets. Here, thick-skinned Albariño grapes shrug off the damp maritime climate, often trained high on granite pergolas to catch the breeze, producing whites of mouth-watering freshness with a signature saline streak.

Scroll down to see 15 award-winning Albariño wines to try

One grape, two names

Cross the Miño river into Portugal and Albariño becomes Alvarinho, a star grape of Vinho Verde. The finest examples come from the Monção and Melgaço sub-regions just over the border, where the style is typically light, aromatic and gently fresh, sometimes with a subtle spritz.

Further afield, the grape’s love of cool, coastal conditions has helped it flourish in various pockets of the world. California’s Central Coast and Oregon’s Willamette Valley produce vibrant, fruit-forward examples, while New Zealand and Australia are turning out zesty, aromatic takes of their own. It has even found an unlikely foothold in England, where the mild maritime climate of Kent echoes the conditions of its Galician homeland.

Wherever it grows, Albariño holds onto its calling cards: bright acidity, perfumed stone fruit and a whisper of sea air. International Albariño Day is the perfect excuse to pour something fresh and delicious.

Spain

Pazo de Señorans, Selección De Añada Albariño, Rías Baixas 2015
Best in Show, 97 points
This is the fifth appearance of a Rias Baixas Albariño in our Best in Show selection, and triumphantly endorses local traditions for long lees ageing followed by bottle age: the wine is now in its eleventh year since the fine 2015 harvest. Our previous winners had been aged for 9, 5, 2 and just 1 year; indeed the popularity of this ‘heroic viticulture’ category means that there is now intense commercial pressure to hurry the wines to market, so classical long-aged alternatives can be hard to find. Pour it into the glass, though, and you'll be amazed: the colour is still pale gold, while the aromas are fresh though complex: expect notes of nectarine, apricot, honeysuckle and citrus zest. The only clue to the wine's age is its mushroomy aromatic back-tones. On the palate, age has brought softness and amplitude but the cut-stone acidity has kept its buoyant freshness; the delicacy and charm remain uncompromised while the stony finesse almost seems to emerge more memorably with time. A masterclass in regional tradition. Alcohol 13%

Bodegas Aquitania, Aquitania Albariño, Rías Baixas 2025
Platinum, 97 points
A highly distinctive style, capturing both the white peach and pear fleshiness and incisive limey precision that defines the grape. Warming nutty tones are joined by a lip-smacking saltiness that glides towards the long finale. Alc 13%

Paco & Lola, Prime Albariño, Rías Baixas 2021
Gold, 96 points
Dazzling white peach, nectarine, orange and honeysuckle perfume underscored by a vivid saline sensation. Textured and refreshing with citrus acidity and a long. Alc 13%

Rectoral Do Umia, Alectum Albariño, Rías Baixas 2025
Gold, 96 points
Arresting aromas of fresh herbs, crushed shells, lime and tangerine energise the pithy consistency and rounded, pear-imbued structure and fuse with the long, saline finish. Alc 12.5%

Terra De Asorei, Selección Privada Albariño, Rías Baixas 2022
Gold, 96 points
Punchy and peachy, with hints of white tea cutting through the palate. Moreish and sapid with lots of chewy texture and expressive acidity carrying the fruit. Alc 13%

Eidosela, Albariño, Rías Baixas 2025
Gold, 95 points
Inviting sea salt and grapefruit pith on the nose, with white peach, plum and citrus peel filling the palate. Salivating and mineral with mouth-watering length. Alc 13%

Granbazán, Etiqueta Verde Albariño, Rías Baixas 2025
Gold, 95 points
Distinctive notes of honeyed fruit, candied lemon peel and steely minerals set the tone, emboldened by the weighty structure and pithy acidity. Fluid and rapturous. Alc 13%

Pazos de Lusco, Albariño, Rías Baixas 2025
Gold, 95 points
Resplendent aromas of orange blossom, honeysuckle and white peach with a haunting mineral drive. Refreshing and saline with a stunning lemon acidity rippling at the end. Alc 13%

Torre Penelas, Blanco Granito, Rías Baixas 2023
Gold, 95 points
High-tone floral aromatics of honeysuckle and peach blossom build the foundations with bounteous peach melba juiciness and tantalising lime zest acidity layered on top. Divine. Alc 12.5%

Celdina, Albariño, Rías Baixas 2025
Silver, 93 points
Delicate and focused nose, with varietal notes of citrus fruit, white peach and blossom. Nicely textured, crystalline palate. Alc 12.5%

Mar De Frades, Finca Monteveiga Albariño, Rías Baixas 2021
Silver, 91 points
Some aromas of grapefruit, rhubarb and green apple with saline nuances. Energetic and refreshing, powerful palate with a mineral finish. Alc 12.65%

New Zealand

Tohu, Whenua Matua Albariño, Upper Moutere, Nelson 2025
Gold, 95 points
A frisson of kaffir lime, orange oil and honeyed herbals patrols the nose, while saline mineral characters frame the palate. Gorgeous grapefruit sherbet charges the length. Alc 13.5%

Waimea, Albariño, Waimea Plains, Nelson 2025
Silver, 92 points
Peachy aromatics, a touch of creamy citrus. Characteristic varietal palate with mineral base notes, breezy acidity. Real energy. Alc 13.5%

South Africa

Spier Wine Farm, Villa Blue Albariño, Stellenbosch 2025
Top Value Gold, 95 points
Ripe red apple and mango with flecks of citrus zest. Broad, creamy and concentrated, offset by vibrant acidity and a lingering saline finish. Alc 13.5%

United States

New Clairvaux, St. James Block Albariño, California 2025
Silver 93 points
Fresh green apple and pear nose with white blossom undertones. Refreshing and vibrant with a tingling acidity. Persistent finish. Alc 12.4%

Search all DWWA 2026 results

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Imagine summer evenings overlooking your own picturesque vineyard estate, or relaxing by the pool, glass in-hand after visiting a nearby winery.

Making wine is anything but easy, of course, and there are several things to consider when buying a vineyard.

Still, we've compiled a snapshot of what's on offer at the higher end of the market, featuring luxurious wine country properties listed for sale from Sonoma to Italy's Adriatic coast.

A chef’s villa with vines on Italy’s Adriatic coast

Price: €1.68m

A professional Italian-American chef who worked at the famous Waldorf Astoria in New York before relocating to Italy is now selling this picturesque vineyard estate on the Adriatic coast.

Described as a ‘contemporary farmhouse’ by listing agent Sotheby’s International Realty (Italy), it’s on sale for €1.68m (£1.43m) and lies close to the beaches of Senigallia.

An outdoor living space includes a swimming pool, kitchen area with a wood-fired oven and a covered orangery.

Meanwhile, a custom-built professional kitchen might tempt dinner party enthusiasts.

There are 4.3ha of ‘fully productive’ vineyards planted to Italian classics Sangiovese and Montepulciano, as well as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon – with some Pinot Bianco, too – plus 1.3ha of olive groves.

An on-site winery produces around 20,300 bottles per year, under the Marche IGT denomination, with ‘potential conversion to Rosso Piceno DOC’, said the listing.

A Tuscan farmhouse with a vineyard project?

Price: €2,628,601

A sprawling farmhouse estate with panoramic views nestled in the hills of eastern Tuscany is among current listings by Romolini Immobiliare, local partner of Christie’s International Real Estate.

Located close to the historic city of Arezzo, this 39.5ha estate already has gardens and around 800 olive trees but comes with a portion of unplanted arable land that could potentially be used for a new vineyard project, according to the listing.

Priced slightly under €2.63m, a farmhouse renovated in the ‘original Tuscan style’ with stone walls, wooden beams and terracotta roof lies at the centre of the estate, near to a wooden gazebo for entertaining.

It’s set up for ‘agriturismo’, with ‘agricultural premises’ on the ground floor and a first-floor living area split into two apartments, the listing said.

An outdoor swimming pool and sunbathing area looks promising for relaxing on sunny afternoons, not to mention poolside dinners on long summer evenings.

Luxury life in Sonoma with a 'wine cave'

Price: $18.75m

Making wine and tending to vineyards is, of course, anything but easy.

While some owners lease out vineyard management, or maintain a few hectares as a no-profit-pressure hobby project, an alternative is to buy into the wine country lifestyle.

This luxurious estate in California’s Sonoma doesn't have its own vineyard, but does feature a 'wine cave'.

There's plenty of cellar space to store bottles from the area's many top producers, too.

It requires a serious financial outlay, however. Priced at $18.75m, it’s among the most expensive properties of its kind in the area and was recently listed by Caroline Sebastiani and Charlie Luna of Sotheby’s International Realty’s wine country brokerage in Sonoma.

This is a rare find, according to the listing, noting the property offers privacy and space but is also well-connected – located close to Sonoma Plaza and a 45-minute drive from San Francisco’s famous Golden Gate Bridge.

Provence manor house and vineyard

Price: €4.25m

From Peter Mayle’s famous memoir to celebrity buyers like Brad Pitt and high-profile wine professionals, Provence's allure is well-documented.

This 18th century ‘bastide’ in the north Luberon comes with 13.5ha of vineyards, an orchard and panoramic views of the surrounding area, according to listing agent Wine Objectives.

Priced at €4.25m, including agency fees, the vineyard is described as being in ‘full production’ and the estate also features a guest house, plus three holiday cottages – although there is no winery on-site.

Wine Objectives, which specialises in vineyard properties in several regions, including Provence, Rhône and Languedoc, also said the estate’s current owner-manager is willing to continue his activity and contribute his experience after any sale.

Boutique red wine estate in Stellenbosch

For prospective buyers looking to own an established vineyard property in South Africa, this boutique red wine estate in the picturesque ‘golden triangle of Stellenbosch' could be of interest.

Listing agency Pam Golding Properties said this 23-hectare estate includes 16ha of vineyards with drip irrigation that are used to produce award-winning red wines.

Lying on predominantly south-facing slopes, grape varieties include Malbec, Petit Verdot, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Roobernet.

There is a four-bedroom Manor house, cellar with tasting room, a winemaker’s cottage and and other buildings that could potentially be used to create an on-site restaurant, according to the listing.

There’s no published guide price, however; this one is a case of ‘price on application / asking’.

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Texas is known for cowboys, barbecue, and increasingly, technology companies. The results of Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2026 signaled another reason to know Texas: the quality of its wines. Texas wines accounted for four of 32 Gold medals awarded to the United States.

Texas wines garnered 122 total medals, the second-most of any U.S. state behind California. Of those, 62 wines scored 90 or more points. These results led to Texas being named one of five 'Regions on the Rise' by Decanter Awards. This year’s Decanter World Wine Awards results were a triumph on the international stage for a wine industry that is both centuries old and yet quite new.

The history of Texas wine

The history of Texas wine dates to the 1600’s when the area was under Spanish rule. However, United States prohibition in the early 1900s decimated the Texas wine industry, which did not recover for decades. From the end of Prohibition in 1933 until the late 1960s, many people laid the groundwork for the modern Texas wine industry.

By the mid-1970s, pioneering wineries were established throughout the state. However, Texas alcohol laws impeded growth. In 2005, Texas had only 85 wineries. A combination of new laws and an emerging generation of winemakers caused the Texas wine industry to explode. While exact figures are hard to determine, the best estimate is that Texas now has over 600 wineries.

The grapes planted in the early 1970s were often marketable varieties for the time, such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Those grapes are still grown, but even then, winegrowers were looking to the Mediterranean and southern Europe.

The grape varieties receiving the most attention today originate in three main warmer-climate growing areas.

Iberian varieties include Albariño, Garnacha/Grenache, Souzão, Touriga Nacional and Tempranillo, which has become a star of Texas red wine.

French varieties include Clairette, Roussanne, Viognier, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Syrah and Tannat.

Italian varieties include Trebbiano, Vermentino, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Sagrantino, Sangiovese and Teroldego.

Each of these grapes is finding a home in Texas as winegrowers hone their ability to match varieties to specific winegrowing regions.

While grapes are grown in most areas of the state, there are eight American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in Texas. If a wine label mentions an AVA, a Texas county, or a single vineyard, then at least 85% of the grapes used must be grown in the designated area. The remainder must come from other areas within Texas. Of the AVAs, two appear most often on labels and are most important for wine drinkers to know.

Texas High Plains AVA

The Texas High Plains AVA in the northwest of the state is a flat, semi-arid mesa benefiting from high elevation and temperature swings. The flat land and rich soils here were known for producing row crops including cotton and peanuts. A more recent trend is grapevines.

Summer temperatures can swing from above 37 degrees C in the day to below 15 degrees C at night. The shift retains the grape’s freshness and acidity. Due to the favourable growing conditions, 75-85% of Texas grapes are grown in the Texas High Plains AVA.

Key grape varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Roussanne, Tempranillo, and Viognier.

Texas Hill Country AVA

Texas Hill Country AVA is located 400 miles south of the High Plains. The elevation is lower, the rainfall is higher, and the temperature swing is less dramatic here. Proximity to both Austin and San Antonio makes the region popular for winery visits. Rolling hills and limestone canyons provide a dramatic backdrop.

The town of Fredericksburg is the centre of tourism in the region and one of the most-visited wine tourism destinations in the United States. Many Texas wineries are located here for this reason.

Key grape varieties are Aglianico, Syrah, Tannat and Tempranillo.

Stylistic differences have emerged as regions and grape varieties have become better understood. Ron Yates of Spicewood Vineyard and Ron Yates Wines characterises Texas High Plains wines as having 'round and soft texture, fruit-driven, with freshness'.

Texas has a long wine history and a dynamic modern industry. As Sue Schulse of Turtle Creek Vineyards notes, 'This is an exciting time for Texas wine with so many producers making great wine.'

Then, why have more people not tasted Texas wines? Tasting the wines often requires a trip to the state. Approximately 95% of Texas wines are sold within the state. This is changing.

Watch for more wines to become available outside the state as a 'Region on the Rise' shares its wines with the world. If the Decanter World Wine Awards 2026 results are any indication, then Texas has much to share.

DWWA 2026: Top-scoring wines from Texas

AB Astris, Souzao, Texas Hill Country 2022

Gold, 96 points
Intoxicating blackberry and plum fruit with hints of lavender on the nose. Densely packed with oak tannins, mouth-coating texture and fascinating length. A beautiful, complete wine. Alcohol 13.9%

Turtle Creek, Tannat, Texas Hill Country 2023

Gold, 96 points
Impressive notes of plum, prune, blackberry and liquorice with a savoury whack of black peppercorns. Grippy with well-knit tannins, precise saline acidity and silky length. Alc 14.5%

Adega Vinho, Estate Tempranillo, Texas Hill Country 2021

Gold, 95 points
An absolute banger of a wine with a good presence of black plum compote and wild herbs. Nicely articulated with a sublime savoury cured meat length. Alc 14%

Spicewood Vineyards, Las Montanas 2022

Gold, 95 points
A feverish intensity of inky black cherry, graphite and verdant green herbs lavishes the deeply concentrated palate, adorning polished tannins and lively acidity. Full and inspiring. Alc 14.2%

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What happens when a sound designer trades studios and speakers for vineyards and bottles?

He goes from tuning speakers to tuning his palate!

That’s my professional story. But it wasn’t all sunshine and rainbows. Two weeks into my new career I was excited, but then an article appeared in my feed: 'Wine is in danger! Young people aren’t drinking anymore!’ Whoosh… there went all my excitement.

Except the excitement never really went away.

One of my biggest goals is to help people of all ages, but especially younger drinkers, to see that wine is something exciting and approachable – something worth exploring.

There are countless ways of achieving this. One of the easiest ways, I believe, is to simply be a young face in the wine industry.

Curious passion

Weekdays, you can find me at Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, California, where I like to think I bring a youthful and curious passion to this industry.

This passion manifests itself in many ways, such as helping a customer find that perfect wine pairing for their dinner, or sharing my love and knowledge on our store’s social media pages.

Customers love to ask: 'What’s your favourite wine?’ It's a difficult question.

The easy way out would be to talk about the 1992 Coche-Dury, Corton-Charlemagne I was fortunate enough to try.

Instead, I like to tell them my favourite style of wine. I like my wines full of tension and energy, showcasing terroir with transparent winemaking styles.

Picking just one wine to showcase for this column was extremely difficult but, with some creative thinking, I got there in the end.

I love Beaujolais, I’m a Californian, and I love wines with an exceptional quality-to-price ratio. So how about a $36 Gamay from Sonoma?

My choice in my words

It’s pale ruby in colour. Freshly picked strawberries burst out of the glass along with pomegranates, raspberries, and Bing cherries all bouncing around saying, 'I’m here!’ It’s quite the energetic bunch.

But as the wine warms and opens up (I personally like all my reds with some chill), freshly ground white pepper, violets, strawberry leaves, oolong tea, and a peek-a-boo of potting soil help build a foundation for these red-fruit notes.

That ripe red fruit rushes across the palate, with the white pepper providing a lift of spice that keeps the wine light on its feet. Pleasant tannins give it some bones.

It’s all driven by electric acidity – that vibrancy just makes your palate beg for another sip! Which means the wine works great either on its own (as a vin de soif) or with food.

What foods? Almost everything! It was steak frites for me. That’s one of the beauties of Gamay and why I love recommending it to customers. Going to a dinner party and don’t know what they’re serving? Get Gamay!

This wine is extremely easygoing, but also full of character. I’d especially recommend it to someone who wants to experience a more restrained kind of California wine.

You can drink it now or through 2038. And for $36, I think it’s a must try.

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Few wines are as loved and as underestimated as rosé. It sells by the poolful every summer, yet it is rarely taken as seriously as the reds and whites it sits between, often filed away as an easy, uncomplicated pleasure and little more. That reputation does it a disservice. Look closely and rosé turns out to be one of the most varied and rewarding categories in wine, capable of far more than a pale glass on a warm afternoon.

Part of the misunderstanding comes down to how little most drinkers know about how rosé is made. Most still rosé is not, as some may assume, red and white wine blended together. In the EU, the practice is generally restricted in still-wine production, although it is permitted for certain sparkling wines – most famously rosé Champagne. Instead, most rosé takes its colour from brief contact between clear juice and dark grape skins, and it is the length of that contact that decides the style.

A quick pressing, with the juice drawn off after only a few hours, gives the pale, delicate wines Provence is known for. Leave the skins in longer, sometimes a day or more of maceration, and the result deepens into something fuller and more fruit-driven. Other rosés come from the saignée method, where juice is bled off a fermenting red to concentrate it, and the pink run-off becomes a wine in its own right. Each route lends a different colour, weight and character, which is why no two rosés are quite alike.

Scroll down to see five top-scoring rosé wines from DWWA 2026

Geography widens the category even further. Provence remains the spiritual home, and rightly so: its pale, dry, herb-scented style set the template the world now follows. But rosé is made almost everywhere wine is, and the results are gloriously diverse. The southern Rhône turns out darker, sturdier pinks built from the heat and for the table. Spain and Italy age some rosés in oak, giving them structure and the ability to improve for years. Cool-climate corners of England and northern Italy make sparkling and delicately aromatic styles. And a growing number of producers are reaching for indigenous grapes that give their rosés a genuine sense of place.

That range is exactly what this year's Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) brought to light. In France alone, 359 rosés were awarded medals across eight regions, from Bordeaux and the Loire to Corsica, Beaujolais and the southwest, and that was before the tasting travelled beyond France altogether.

The five wines below were chosen to show the category at its most surprising: a sparkling English pink, a barrel-aged Rioja with the gravity of a serious red, a rosé from a Croatian grape few will have tasted, and two Mediterranean wines that prove there is life well beyond the Provençal template.

Consider it an invitation to look at rosé afresh. There is a great deal more here than first meets the eye, and a great deal more to enjoy. Rosé, it turns out, is a technique, not a place, and never just one shade of pink.

DWWA 2026: Top-scoring rosé wines to explore

Lunae, Mea Rosa, Liguria di Levante, Liguria, Italy 2025

Platinum, 97 points
A summer dream! An incredible vibrancy of rose petals, red cherries, raspberries and strawberries dives into the plush, juicy palate speckled with fresh herbs and spices adding complexity and verve. Joyous and full of life. Alcohol 12.5%

Winding Wood, Rosé Brut, Berkshire, England 2022

Platinum, 97 points
Ethereal rose garden and subtle strawberry and red apple aromatics weave into the plush toasted brioche core. Beautifully fresh with a gentle yet persuasive mousse and a long, allusive finish. An allegory of national intent. Alc 12%

Ante Sladić, Opol Lasina, Dalmatinska Zagora, Coastal, Croatia 2025

Gold, 96 points
Burgeoning ripe strawberries pervade the nose and palate gathering freshness in their wake. Fabulous cleansing acidity pierces the peppy fruit texture and teases out the length. Alc 12.5%

Domaine La Cendrillon, Minuit, Corbières, France 2025

Gold, 96 points
Meticulously crafted with peach, red apple, raspberry and cherry fruit lined with a spicy, savoury elegance. Fleshy and impactful with citrus acidity and energising length. Alc 13.5%

Hacienda López De Haro, Classica, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain, 2016

Gold, 96 points
Showstopping, classic and well-aged, yet with plenty of time ahead. A complex structure infused with dried cranberries and damp earth over bracing acidity and lingering length. Alc 12.3%

Discover all winners at awards.decanter.com

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In the department of Chuquisaqa in southern Bolivia, 150km from the border with Argentina at an elevation of 2,400m, the Cinti Valley shapes one of the most spectacular vineyard landscapes imaginable.

Spanning approximately 80km north to south, its main geological feature is a vast canyon of millefeuille pink sandstone, whose skyscraping vertical rock faces appear hyperreal in dazzling high-altitude sun.

At the base of this canyon, lush green valleys skirt the Rio Grande and Rio Chica rivers.

Closer inspection reveals them to be ‘forest’ vineyards, where ancient, ungrafted criolla grapevines wind up into the canopy of molle (pink peppercorn), algarrobo (white carob) and chañar (green wood) trees.

Small-scale and high-altitude

Though viticulture has existed in Cinti since the arrival of the first Spanish missionaries more than 500 years ago, this remote region’s emergence as a South American premium wine region of note is new.

The majority of Bolivia’s wine production – mostly large wineries working with international varieties – centres on Tarija, a three-hour drive across deep valleys and mountain passes to the south.

Wine is also made in a tiny coffee-producing sub-region of Santa Cruz called Samaipata.

Cochabamba, a region far better known for producing coca, also has a smattering of wineries.

But Cinti stands out from them all.

The valley encompasses three principal districts – Camargo, Villa Abecia and Las Carreras, all characterised by extreme high-altitude viticulture and small-scale production that is necessarily focused on premium wines.

Typically, wine is subordinate to the production of singani – a clear brandy made from Moscatel de Alejandría and Bolivia’s national spirit – but in recent years the region’s winemakers have begun to show greater ambition.

Paradise regained

The first vines were planted in Cinti in the mid- to late 1500s, brought by Dominican Spanish missionaries who followed the route of the conquistadores from Peru.

Augustinian monks further established viticulture in the valley, also producing singani and wine for the silver mining settlement of Potosí to the north.

At the time, Potosí was home to the largest silver deposit in the world, which bore the riches upon which the Spanish Empire was founded.

Towards the end of the 16^th century, Jesuits arrived in the valley, continuing to industrialise winemaking and distillation as they extended their influence from La Plata (present-day Sucre) and Potosí into the southern valleys of Chuquisaca.

To this day, along the northern Cinti Valley, ruins of adobe haciendas provide evidence of the Jesuits’ industry.

Some have been preserved by wine and singani makers who continue the work their families have been doing in Cinti for generations.

Following the Jesuits’ expulsion in 1767, four families – Vacaflores, Rivera, Mendoza and Leyton – rose to prominence.

These families retain a presence in the valley through several important wine and singani producers: Luis Balanza, fifth-generation owner of Hacienda Virreinal Real Compañía Baja in Camargo, of Vacaflores lineage; Jaime Rivera, fifth-generation owner of Bodega Cepa de Oro in Camargo; Patricia Mendoza, fifth-generation owner of Bodega Yokich in Camargo (raised in Cinti, trained at Plumpton College, Sussex); and fourth-generation Marcelo Vacaflores of Bodega San Francisco de la Horca in Camargo.

To these names one should add other important wine producers with Cinti family roots: Jorge ‘Don Piti’ Samos, of Bodega La Encantada in Villa Abecia, and Alejandro Medina of the négociant label Bitoque, also co-owner of the natural wine-focused restaurant Bibi-Ji in Santa Barbara alongside Rajat Parr.

Sister act

With similarly deep roots in wine and singani, though based in Tarija, is Jardín Oculto (secret garden).

Established in 2019 by sisters Maria José and Mercedes Granier – and from 2020 until 2024 guided in the cellar by well-travelled British winemaker Nayan Gowda – this winery offers perhaps the clearest evidence of Cinti’s winemaking ambition.

The Graniers’ link to Cinti comes through their great-grandfather, Julio Ortiz, the owner of Bodega San Pedro at its productive peak in the 1920s.

Founded in the 16^th century, San Pedro grew to become the biggest distillery in Bolivia. As Maria José explains, when the distillery fell into decline in the 1990s – the cumulative effect of the decline of Potosí, geographic isolation and competition from other distilleries – the knock-on effect for Cinti was huge.

While grapes were once transported from Tarija to be processed at San Pedro, suddenly the tide turned; Tarija’s wine industry grew as Cinti shrunk.

Then came the intervention of Cees van Casteren, a Dutch Master of Wine recruited by the Dutch-funded Fautapo Foundation to help prepare Bolivian wineries for export.

In 2014, Van Casteren introduced Maria José Granier to Cinti’s extraordinary ‘forest’ vineyards, ultimately persuading her to purchase the historic Hacienda San Roque in Camargo.

In 2018 he organised the first MW trip to Bolivia, visiting wineries in Cinti and Tarija.

‘It’s impossible to talk about Bolivian wine today without talking about Cees,' says Maria José Garnier.

'He recognised right away how special the Cinti Valley's arboreal viticulture is, and he became a dedicated advocate for it.’

Arbolito viticulture

Cinti’s arboreal, or ‘arbolito’ (‘little tree’), vineyards are a powerful living symbol of Bolivia’s little-known viticultural history. Maria José estimates that 15-20% of Cinti’s 300ha of vineyards are of the arbolito kind.

Some, including Jardín Oculto’s San Roque, are single-ownership and dedicated to winegrape cultivation.

Others remain fully functioning polycultures of stunning fecundity and colour, in which as many as a dozen people may each own a parcel of a quarter or half a hectare.

The arbolito vines tower over gobelet-style vines and, occasionally, V-shaped trellises planted to optimise crop yields within a densely planted area.

Anecdotal estimates of their age range from 100 to 200 years, if not more.

But they are no mere historical curio; they can produce extraordinary wines, often with a gargantuan fruitload – 30kg of grapes per vine is not unusual – which defies all that is taught about grapevine cultivation in textbooks.

Helios McNaught, husband of Maria José Granier, has overall responsibility for the management of Jardín Oculto’s vineyards.

He believes one of their most important tasks is to apply a modern, scientific understanding of viticulture to this ancient heritage.

‘It’s about respecting and trying to understand why people did what they did,’ he says, ‘but also when to know that’s not enough [...] Each year we try to make small adjustments, like in the pruning, because you can’t make large adjustments to a complex ecosystem without messing it up.'

Cinti’s unique terroir

While the concept of ‘terroir’ is relatively new in Cinti, the valley’s favourable conditions for producing superior wine grapes have long been understood.

Its extreme high altitude generates a big diurnal temperature shift – around harvest, daytime highs of 35°C can drop to 15°C – which helps the grapes to retain acidity.

The altitude intensifies the UV exposure, thickening grape skins and encouraging the development of complex aromas and flavours.

Frequent winds and a semi-arid climate foster vine health, while a complex geology – in which sandstone, shale and quartz are found within deep alluvial gravels, alongside sand and calcareous deposits – gives a distinct mineral dimension to the wines.

Another crucial terroir element is the river water used for traditional channel irrigation in the vineyards.

The water of the Rio Grande contains unusually high levels of sodium ions and other dissolved minerals from the ancient shales over which the river runs for several kilometres before it reaches Cinti.

In the Rio Chica, the water is described as ‘agua dulce’, fed by fresh snowmelt and rainwater that descends from the Andes.

This makes it possible to distinguish between Cinti wines based on their water source: salty-mineral from the Rio Grande, softer and more fruit-led from the Rio Chica.

The rise of criollas

Central to Cinti’s identity is its dedication to criolla grape varieties. In the past five to 10 years South America has witnessed an explosion of criolla wines as South American wine producers have honed in on their own viticultural heritage.

In Bolivia, this has been fuelled by La Paz’s newfound status as one of the gastronomic capitals of the world, with stellar restaurants like Gustu and Arami offering 100% Bolivian wine lists on which criolla wines predominate.

The three most important Cinti criollas are Negra Criolla (Listán Prieto/País/Criolla Chica), Moscatel de Alejandría and Vischoqueña, the latter a crossing of Negra Criolla and Moscatel that is unique to Bolivia.

Cinti’s mixed-planted arbolito vineyards feature more than a dozen other criollas. These include Imporeña and Uvilla and others that DNA analysis has so far failed to identify.

Genetic jewel box

Much investment in research is needed to fully catalogue and preserve these rare varieties, which have evolved in isolation in this remote valley for centuries, though this work is already under way.

At Bodega Yokich in Camargo, winemaker Patricia Mendoza and her family are the custodians of Cinti’s only grapevine genetic bank.

Based on the extensive work of her father and grandfather – once the vineyard manager of San Pedro – they are working not only to preserve Cinti’s grape varieties, but also to propagate and distribute them to vineyard owners across Bolivia.

‘The main concern for my grandfather, especially, and my father was that in a few years the old vineyards were going to disappear and then we would lose the genetic diversity that we had,’ Mendoza explains.

‘Nowadays, some of those vineyards no longer exist, but we have the genetic material here. This is a huge responsibility for us, as the new generation. We also work with the governments, for example in Chuquisaca, in Potosí, in Santa Cruz… so the genetic material from the Cinti Valley is all around Bolivia now.’

A new chapter

Bolivia is still trying to find its own identity as a wine country. For now, one is more likely to hear about the big, oak-aged Tannats or Cabernets of Tarija than about the more esoteric delights of Cinti’s high-altitude criollas – if one is to hear about Bolivian wine at all.

‘We used to look up a lot to Argentina,’ Maria José Granier admits. ‘Now we're trying to learn more about what we have, and that’s very important.’

Momentum is building, in Bolivia generally, in Cinti especially. Clear evidence came with the establishment of Denominación de Origen Valle de Cinti – the only DO for wine in Bolivia – in 2014.

Comprising 11 bodegas divided between the valley’s three main winegrowing districts, the DO has an explicit objective to protect the wines and viticultural heritage of the Cinti Valley.

Locally, considerable hope also now exists on the political front: first, from the election in 2025 of centre-right President Rodrigo Paz, who marked his overturning of almost two decades of socialist rule with the declaration that Bolivia was ‘open for business’.

Secondly, the installation of a new mayor for the Cinti region, Marcela Mendoza, whose family owns the Yokich estate in Camargo.

With a sympathetic new mayor’s influence, and appeals to previously overlooked constitutional provisions for support – critically important is statute 774, introduced in 2016 to protect and promote Bolivian singani and wine – Cinti’s artisan producers hope to be able to apply for low-interest government loans that will enable them to purchase new winery equipment, develop their businesses and make even better wines.

With this momentum continuing to build, it won’t be long before the wines of this remote canyon reach their deserved global audience.

Exploring the wines of the Cinti Valley

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For Haysley MacDonald, founder and owner of te Pā Wines in Marlborough, New Zealand, relaxing after the harvest doesn’t mean a glass of wine in the vineyard.

It means donning his flippers and heading into the ocean to grab some kina (sea urchins).

‘I’ve been freediving and collecting kaimoana [seafood] my whole life, but sea urchin has always been my favourite. I swim over everything else to get that,’ he says.

‘You eat it straight out of the shell,’ he continues. ‘I stick a knife through the centre then use a spoon to scoop out the orange roe, and just slurp it back. Kina is one of the most nutritious foods out there, with heaps of vitamins and minerals.’

If there are no urchins around, he’ll settle for abalone, red rock lobster, scallops and oysters – as well as spearing fish. ‘You name it, we’ll get it,’ he says.

Keeping culture alive

MacDonald’s vineyard is probably the closest one to the ocean in Marlborough – just 100 or so metres away – so it’s no surprise he spends almost as much time in the water as out of it.

Some of his earliest memories are of learning to freedive with his father. ‘We never had proper gear back then,’ he recalls. ‘Dad would just give us each a screwdriver and we’d use them to prise the abalone off the rocks. Nowadays people have fancy dive knives.’

Freediving and gathering kaimoana is a central part of Māori culture, MacDonald explains. He’s a descendent of some of the earliest Māori arrivals to New Zealand – some 800 years ago – and the skills involved have reached him via many generations.

Now he’s teaching his five children those same skills. ‘I like it even more these days because they’re catching the food for me,’ he jokes. ‘The joy on someone’s face when they grab their first lobster is cool. Those are special moments.’

Of course, freediving isn’t without risk. Just last year, Frédéric Panaïotis, chef de cave at Ruinart, died in a freediving accident.

MacDonald’s scariest moment in the water was realising a dark shadow was a big shark swimming towards him. ‘Luckily a cousin, who was in a boat, got between us,’ he says. ‘I managed to get out pretty quickly… That was definitely a nervous moment.'

But, he adds: ‘I’m too hungry diving to worry about the risks normally. We’ve done it our whole lives. We just instinctively know what to do. But yes, if you don’t respect the ocean, you’re going to get in trouble. You’ve got to adapt to the conditions you’re in – know the tides, know the weather.’

Dwindling resource

While the skills required are the same as those his ancestors would have needed, freediving for seafood is very different today due to overfishing.

‘We’ve got to go further and deeper to get the same seafood they would have gone just ankle-deep to get,’ MacDonald says. ‘I’ve been diving for nearly 40 years and I’ve seen massive changes. It’s a big worry.’

His greatest frustration is with commercial fishing: ‘It’s painful to watch. People don’t seem to care what they’re depleting.’ MacDonald sits on the board of his iwi (local tribe) and has been leading its work calling for downsizing the local fishery to preserve ocean life for generations to come.

While winemaking and freediving may seem like separate worlds, there is some overlap. ‘With both, you must work with the elements and adapt,’ he says.

And luckily MacDonald’s wines just happen to go superbly with freshly caught seafood. ‘If we’re cooking food on the boat trip back, we’ll often have a glass of wine,’ he says.

‘Fresh, raw sea urchin is quite an intense, salty flavour so it needs a richer style. It goes really well with our barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay.'

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As the seasons change, so do our wine choices. The bottle that seemed perfect by the fire in January has seemingly less to offer on a rooftop at golden hour. With heatwaves keeping air conditioners running full-tilt, our palates turn towards wines with more energy – bottles worth chilling, opening easily and pouring generously at the end of a long day.

What to look for in a summer wine

When it’s hot, your instinct may be to reach for something cold straight out of the ice bucket, and there is wisdom in that. A good chill flatters almost any wine built on acidity, and freshness is the quality that matters most as the temperature climbs. It cuts through rich, smoky and salty food, resets the palate between bites and keeps a wine feeling alive as the afternoon warms it in the glass. Summer tends to reward wines with moderate alcohol, restrained oak and enough natural lift to stay lively when chilled. They feel lighter and suit the food of the season, from salads and seafood to whatever comes off the grill. A few styles do this especially well:

• Sparkling wine: Champagne, English sparkling, Cap Classique or Cava. Bubbles and bright acidity make these refreshing and ideal before a meal. Serve at 6–8°C.
• Crisp whites: Think citrus, herbs, stone fruit and a saline snap rather than heavy richness. Serve at 8–10°C.
• Dry rosé: One of summer's most versatile options. Pale styles are light and delicate for sipping, while deeper, fruitier ones have the texture to handle grilled food. Serve at 8–11°C.
• Light reds, lightly chilled: Softer tannins and bright red fruit make these refreshing at 12–14°C, and a natural match for chicken, pork or charcuterie.
• Off-dry Riesling: Especially good with spice. A touch of sweetness softens chilli heat, while the acidity keeps the wine feeling light.

Judge (and poolside) approved

All our picks were tasted at Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2026. Nearly 17,000 wines from 58 countries were assessed blind by panels of experts, among them Masters of Wine and Master Sommeliers, and judged purely on what was in the glass.

The best earned medals rising from Bronze through Silver, Gold and Platinum, with a small Best in Show selection reserved for the very finest. A medal is, in short, a reliable shortcut: a wine the world's most experienced tasters thought worth seeking out. Here are six to see you through the season:

For gatherings

Hambledon's Classic Cuvée Brut, an English sparkler in generous magnum, is built for a crowd. Pour it as guests arrive on the rooftop or the lawn and there is plenty to keep the glasses full.

Hambledon Wine Estate, Classic Cuvée Brut, Hampshire, England NV

Gold, 95 points
Splendid golden apple, pear and zingy lemon fragrance softly drapes over a backdrop of baked caramel biscuits. Poised and stirring with silky bubbles and mineral length. Alcohol 12%

For the barbecue

When the coals are ready, a deeper rosé earns its keep. A La Mano's Tavel, all black cherry and savoury spice, has the flesh and grip to match charred meat and smoke where a paler pink would disappear.

A La Mano, Tavel, Rhône, France 2024

Gold, 95 points
A deep style of rosé with lashings of black cherries bumbling alongside spicy herbal nuances. Textured and fleshy with a long savoury finish. Very food-friendly. Alc 13.5%

For the seaside

Rapaura Springs' ROHE Sauvignon Blanc, one of only a handful of Marlborough Sauvignons ever named Best in Show, brings the region's trademark zip with unusual depth and length beside just-grilled fish.

Rapaura Springs, ROHE Sauvignon Blanc, Blind River, Marlborough, New Zealand 2025

Best in Show, 97 points
This is the sixth Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc to feature in our Best In Show selection – and of those six, half have carried an Awatere Valley origin, suggesting that this may prove to be one of the finest of Marlborough's sub-regions. This is a hugely impressive wine. Silver in colour, it has arresting vitality and energy on the nose, but unusual complexity, too: melon, mango, pear, Japanese citrus, resin, thyme and rue were among the notes our judges detected, woven together with great skill and discernment, and with no note dominating or lacking refinement. On the palate it's excitingly flavoury in all of the ways the aromas sketched out – yet it's also soft, complex, textured and hauntingly savoury as well as floral and fruity. 2026 was an outstanding DWWA year for New Zealand Sauvignon, and this layered, high-finesse yet at the same time amply drinkable wine had to see off many competitors to win its place in the Top 50. Alc 13%

For something unexpected

Albariño is Spain's great coastal white, but Spier grows a strikingly good one on South Africa's Atlantic-cooled coast. Broad, saline and made for the shore, this Top Value Gold proves the grape travels well.

Spier, Villa Blue Albariño, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2025

Top Value Gold, 95 points
Ripe red apple and mango with flecks of citrus zest. Broad, creamy and concentrated, offset by vibrant acidity and a lingering saline finish. Alc 13.5%

For a chilled red

For those who won't give up red until the last possible moment, Kurtatsch's old-vine Schiava from high in Alto Adige is light, fragrant and low in tannin. Twenty minutes in the fridge makes it the ideal summer-evening red.

Kurtatsch, Sonntaler Vernatsch Alte Reben Schiava, Alto Adige, Italy 2025

Gold, 95 points
Authentic notes of crushed red berries, redcurrants and rose petals with a lick of fresh herbs. Crunchy and mouth-watering with thriving tannins and saline length. Alc 12.5%

For the curious

And for the adventurous, bhn's amber-hued Oregon Riesling, made on its skins in the manner of an orange wine, offers the freshness of a white with the grip of a red. One to spark conversation as the sun goes down.

bhn, Riesling, Oregon, United States 2023

Gold, 95 points
A compelling style, layered with oolong tea, saffron, ginger and floral nuance over the subtle oxidative depth, creating an evolving aromatic spectrum with savoury poise. Alc 15.5%

Discover all winners at awards.decanter.com

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‘Everyday drinking’ is an important concept, but what, exactly, do we mean?

A topic such as this should write itself, yet I found the subject slippery while actually writing it.

Part of the reason is that it is necessarily a moving target, changing with the seasons and the weather, where one is located, and with whom one is dining.

The other difficulty is that one is spoiled for choice – how can the topic be narrowed to a reasonable scope if each day brings an exciting new possibility?

Below are my coups de cœur (heart throb) Burgundy producers, as the French would say; the vignerons I turn to for excellent mid-week drinking.

These personal choices are made on impulse rather than logic, and they are organised geographically for simplicity's sake.

The necessary criteria are quality, availability and price. To qualify for everyday drinking, it must be good, readily available in shops or restaurants, and at least reasonably affordable.

Chablis/Auxerrois

A quick look at my personal website reveals a profusion of Chablis. Once ridiculously undervalued, Chablis in recent years has taken off in renown, and in price, yet northern Burgundy still holds surprising value.

Domaine Jean-Hugues & Guilhem Goisot is not as well-known, particularly to anglophone drinkers, as the best Chablis producers, but it also sits at the top of the hierarchy.

It is based in the charmingly obscure town of St-Bris, where the appellation wines are Sauvignon de St-Bris, a close Kimmeridgian cousin of Sancerre.

The Goisot clan produces perhaps the most expressive versions available of this appellation (often on north-facing slopes, sometimes co-planted with Sauvignon Gris), but when the exposure or soils are better suited to Chardonnay (east-facing) or Pinot Noir (south-facing) these grapes are grown and bottled as Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre.

At an extraordinarily reasonable price point, they also produce a winning Aligoté that is widely available.

Côte de Nuits

The Côte de Nuits is the land of grand cru Pinot Noir and one might imagine a struggle to find everyday wines. Luckily, this is not the case at all.

Even top producers can still make wines here that are beautiful and affordable, and Domaine Trapet must surely be at the front rank.

Given the quality here, all the wines could qualify as reasonably priced, but the Passetoutgrain à Minima, a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir from the ‘wrong side of the tracks’ in Gevrey, is a true bargain, as are the Gevrey village-level cuvées 1859 and Ostrea.

These are cuvées produced by Domaine Trapet Père & Fils, formerly directed by Jean-Louis Trapet, whose sons Pierre and Louis are now at the helm.

They have also launched their own label, Pierre & Louis Trapet, where they produce classic styles and some more experimental bottlings.

Worthy of note, the wines from Trapet’s cousin domaine, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, are also of extraordinary value from superb terroirs.

For the summer months it may be useful to highlight Burgundy’s only ‘cru’ rosé from Marsannay. I often mark the beginning of summer by buying in a case of pink for hotter weather.

The classic producer is Domaine Bruno Clair, whose careful combination of direct press and maceration on the skins produces a delightfully elegant summer rosé.

Bruno’s cousins at Domaine Bart and his neighbour Sylvain Pataille also offer worthy renditions.

Côte de Beaune

The wines of Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson are among the most frequent weekday visitors on my dinner table. The domaine is located in St-Romain, where they farm 19ha of certified organic vineyards.

Although the family has lived in the village since the 12th century and trace their work as vignerons to 1758, they have bottled wine under the family name only since 1947, the year in which the village received its own appellation.

Before 1947, St-Romain was considered part of the Hautes-Côtes, tucked away in a valley behind Meursault in the region’s upper slopes, which is why the village is less well-known to many.

The higher elevations meant that in the past the grapes ripened with difficulty, but with a changing climate, St-Romain has come into its own to produce wines with lush, forward fruit that still retain plenty of structure, making them excellent companions to food.

The vineyard-designated St-Romain wines are the star of the show at Buisson, but the red and white Bourgogne-level wines are delicious as well at an eminently affordable price.

Côte Chalonnaise

The Côte Chalonnaise is home to many diverse wine styles. One producer has mastered several: Bruno Lorenzon is producing some of the finest wines anywhere in the Côte Chalonnaise.

Although he is based in Mercurey, known for red wines, his 30 years at the family domaine have given him the experience to produce stunning wines in both colours.

He now produces wines from 9ha of vines, six in Mercurey and three in Montagny. As he noted: ‘I’m a white wine guy who makes Pinot Noir in a Chardonnay way.’

He sometimes delights in running counter to received wisdom, deriding the early-picked, reductive style currently in fashion for Chardonnay in very amusing terms, quoting Henri Jayer: ‘A wine must be good from the beginning’.

He presses whole bunches of Chardonnay delicately and vinifies in a minimalist way without chaptalising, acidifying, or adding sulphur, to sublime results.

In either colour or terroir, the master of Mercurey delivers beautiful wines of precision and impressive depth of flavour.

Mâconnais

The Mâconnais is a fertile hunting ground for the everyday value wines that often appear at my house.

The region is broad and varied, and numerous producers are making great wine at great prices.

Across the appellations of the Mâconnais, from Pouilly-Fuissé premier cru to Mâcon-Villages and beyond, however, the style pioneered by Jean-Marie Guffens and Julian Desplans at Maison Verget consistently delivers satisfaction.

They adapt the winemaking style to each cuvée across a broad range, but in general, the wines are concentrated and aromatic, with a slightly smoky, reductive edge imparted by the winemaking.

Despite picking fairly ripe fruit, the wines never lose their balance and retain a lively freshness that makes them refreshing even in a warm vintage.

Even in an era of skyrocketing prices, these producers show that Burgundy still offers abundant choices for everyday drinking.

Favourite Burgundy producers for everyday drinking

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How do you measure the greatness of any given wine appellation? One way might be to count the number of outstanding producers.

If using this method in the Southern Rhône, Cairanne would come out looking particularly strong.

Cairanne was promoted to Cru status in 2016, and there was never any doubt that it deserved this commendation. Ten years on, its wines are even better.

The Cairanne style is all about balance, elegance and consistency. Its reds have the characteristic generosity of the east bank, but more restrained than punchier appellations such as Rasteau and Châteauneuf.

Its whites too inhabit a comfortable middle ground. They have affable confidence rather than oaky swagger; they are proudly Southern Rhône, and with drinkability.

Both colours are approachable on release, and both can develop beguiling complexity with a decade (or more) in bottle.

And they’re not expensive; on the contrary, Cairanne offers some of the best value drinking in the Rhône Valley.

As in all appellations, the producer is what counts. Below is a list of some personal favourites.

If you can’t find them, there are countless other excellent producers to choose from, including Domaine Brusset, Domaine les Hautes Cances, Domaine Rabasse Charavin and La Cave de Cairanne.

Domaine Alary

The Alary family settled in Cairanne in 1692, and has been cultivating land here ever since.

It was Denis Alary who helped spearhead the passage to Cru in 2016; he has since passed the baton to his son Jean-Etienne.

They make numerous Cairanne cuvées, all with a unique raison d’être, and they excel at both white and red. Their white Estévenas is deep and rich but not heavy.

Of their reds, their Jean de Verde is the essence of Cairanne Grenache, and their red Estévenas is highly distinctive, brimming with mocha and black olive, thanks to its old vine Syrah.

Their 2016 Estévenas red was drinking brilliantly this year, with another decade ahead of it.

Domaine Richaud

If Domaine Alary embodies classical Cairanne, then Richaud personifies its wild side.

Richaud might not be the most consistently reliable estate in the appellation, but when the wines are on form, they’re unbeatable.

Don’t let the simple labels fool you: these can be highly complex wines.

Marcel Richaud has largely passed on the estate to his children Thomas and Claire now. They work organically, add nothing to their wines, or take anything away; yields are very low.

Even their cuvée classique is fresh, zesty and exuberant; their 50% Mourvèdre L’Ebresecade can be phenomenal; powerful and concentrated but crackling with energy. Their white is also delicious, rich or fresh, as the vintage dictates.

Les Chemins de Sève

What Loïc Massart has achieved since establishing his estate in 2013 is nothing short of extraordinary.

In a matter of 13 years, Les Chemins de Sève is among the top names of the appellation. The winery might be new but their vines are up to 85 years old.

He makes two red Cairannes. Métamorphose is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, aged in concrete for a round, approachable, juicy but structured style.

Apanage is 50/50 Grenache/Syrah, aged in recent barrels for a darker, more intense expression.

His white Cairanne Opale (40% Roussanne, 30% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc) is also highly accomplished. His 2014 Opale and 2015 Apanage, some of his first attempts, were still showing very well in 2026.

Domaine des Amadieu

Yves-Jean Houser, took over this 7ha estate in 2007 and promptly converted it to biodynamics.

His style is uncompromising – authentic wines with no make-up that offer a clear-eyed vision of this terroir.

His whites are broad, rich, supported by mineral freshness rather than acidity. I prefer his vibrant and invigorating reds.

Garrigues is juicily delicious, Vieilles Vignes more structured, made for the dinner table. His first vintage, 2007, was still holding up well in 2026, complex and compelling.

Clos Romane

Clos Romane is a fourth generation organic family estate in the heart of the village, their 30ha of vineyards are dotted around various soils and appellations.

Their wines have been improving from year to year and are now reliably excellent. The style here is all about richness and power, in both colours.

Domaine A. Berthet-Rayne

The Berthet-Rayne family has been making wine in Cairanne since 1880. Current owner André is the fourth generation, his daughter Alexandra joined the estate in 2017.

Their reds are very good, especially their Castel Mireio, which is particularly refined.

A generous 20% of their estate is planted with whites however, a house speciality; their Castel Mireio white is often among the best in the appellation.

Domaine Oratoire Saint-Martin

There were two branches of the Alary family who were instrumental in the history of wine in Cairanne. Domaine Alary is home to one; Domaine Oratoire Saint-Martin was, until recently, home to the other.

This latter estate was run by tenth generation brothers Frédéric and François Alary until 2020, when they sold the estate to the Abeille-Fabre family of Château Mont-Redon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The estate is still being run biodynamically. Red wines are medium-bodied in style and can be enjoyable in good vintages.

Their strength here is their whites (which was always the case) which, in vintages like 2024, can be among the finest in the Southern Rhône.

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Active inertia

In September 2024, I was in Joško Gravner’s cellar near Gorizia in Italy’s Collio region when, after passing rows of clay qvevri and amphorae, I came across something wholly unexpected: a square glass vessel that looked as though it had come from the future.

Despite the fact that humans have been making glass for roughly two millennia longer than they have been using oak, the former’s use in winemaking is a surprisingly recent development.

The 10,000-litre EnoKube – designed for its properties of thermal inertia and resistance – entered Gravner’s vinification process months later.

‘We consider glass to be an inert and pure material that can contribute to the proper maturation of wine,’ estate director Mateja Gravner (pictured, above) explains.

It’s now used to complete a cycle that begins with fermentation in qvevri, continues in large barrels (up to 7,000-litre) and ends in the bottle, ‘which is nothing other than smaller glass’.

A year earlier, when I was interviewing Frank Cornelissen about his move away from skin-contact whites, he drew a careful distinction between Gravner’s use of oak and extended maceration, and his own shift toward neutral vessels in pursuit of purer terroir expression.

Standing before the EnoKube, the connection felt oddly circular, prompting a broader question about the role of glass in shaping wine.

For Mateja, the move comes within a broader context.

‘For a couple of decades, there has been a return to less invasive winemaking,’ she says, ‘where the container takes on the role of service – that is, of “connecting�� – much more than [directly] influencing the flavour and development of the content.

Clear case

Pre-dating Gravner’s EnoKube are 220-litre glass Wineglobes, produced in Bordeaux by the Paetzold family from 2015, after an initial request from Burgundy producer Arnaud Ente in 2014.

CEO Marie Paetzold says Ente ‘wanted a material that cannot transfer any metals inside the wine’, in contrast to cement and terracotta. ‘They impact the taste.’

What surprised them, Paetzold explains, was the absence of expected reduction (the introduction, in the absence of oxygen during fermentation, of unwelcome sulphury aromas that suppress fruit character).

By convention, limiting oxygen should have pushed wines in that direction. Instead, those ageing in Wineglobes stayed open.

‘It evolved during the ageing process,’ she says. ‘We were surprised by the liveliness and the purity in the glass.’

The aim was not only preservation, but expression: ‘We keep 100% of the potential of the grapes,’ she says, ‘but we still wanted the result of a great wine, with the polish, the harmony you expect from oak.’

The difference lay in the glass itself. Tinted versions, requiring added metals, produced tighter, more austere wines more prone to reduction.

Fully transparent glass, free of metals, behaved differently altogether, yielding ‘purity, liveliness, energy, vibrancy’, she says. ‘It was important to protect, but also to express the wine during the ageing process.’

Other advantages of Wineglobes (and other glass vessels) include the durability (they last forever in theory); the ability, thanks to glass being easier to clean, to reduce the amount of sulphur used to one third of what would be expected in a wooden barrel; and that, unlike wooden barrels, you don’t lose liquid to evaporation.

Assessing the options

In Etna, Sicily, Frank Cornelissen (pictured, above) uses fibreglass epoxy tanks with a similar aim.

‘They bring whatever the grape brings,’ he explains. ‘They are basically tubes and you mould the bottom, you reinforce it to be able to hold the pressure and whatever else.’

Large tanks are used – 5,000, 8,000, even 10,000 litres – round in shape, so the lees can float freely and easily into suspension in the tank when the seasons change.

The trade-off is cellar space efficiency, but for Cornelissen it’s preferable to the alternatives.

‘Stainless steel has an issue with reduction. In other words, steel tanks suffocate the wine, causing unpleasant odours, and the metal surfaces disrupt its natural, living chemistry.’

Cornelissen traces his early attraction to amphorae to a purely logical thought process: because vines grow in soil, clay buried back into the earth felt like the most coherent expression of place – ‘the perfect intellectual way of making wine’, he says.

In practice, consistency proved elusive.

Differences in the clay and its firing meant that results varied from batch to batch, eventually leading to liners and then a gradual shift towards fibreglass.

Georgian qvevri offered a historical precedent, but their beeswax coating left a persistent honeyed note, incompatible with wines aimed at purity and precision.

‘Other materials, like ceramic, I like,’ Cornelissen adds. ‘But they do have an openness, so there is an exchange of oxygen that is a little bit more evolved than, for example, with the fibreglass tanks’.

For him, such vessels can work where fruit is more robust, but in terroirs such as Burgundy and Etna they are less appropriate.

‘That needs to be put into perspective,’ he says. ‘Suppose I had chosen Burgundy [as opposed to Etna] as the area to go and produce wines – there, oak does have a historical logic to it. And so then it becomes much more complex just to skip a historical ingredient.’

Still, he qualifies: ‘I think you can also make great Burgundy in fibreglass tanks.’

Not set in stone

Arnaud Ente was the first big name in Burgundy to head in that direction, having adopted Wineglobes for all vinification and ageing in 2023 (he started with white premier cru wines and reds in 2019).

Another Burgundy producer moving away from oak – with similar aims, but a different choice of vessel, is Charles Lachaux (pictured, above).

His wines have also been held in greater esteem by critics since he switched production to sandstone tanks, with ageing upped to 36 months.

‘I didn’t want to use glass because glass doesn’t breathe,’ Lachaux told me over the phone just before the new year, as he was about to bottle the 2022 vintage.

‘Since the [sandstone] ceramic vessel still allows oxygen to go through, it’s not completely hermetic – it still has a certain porosity. And it’s neutral compared to concrete.’

The vessels are ‘only sandstone and water, there is nothing else’, he adds, ‘so it’s pure and there is no conductivity’.

He also prefers them to clay amphorae, which ‘still let some oxygen breathe in’, and this ‘doesn’t suit the fragility of Pinot Noir; even more so for long élevage’. He compares the ceramic vessels to low-temperature cooking, which you feel in the wines.

‘They’re more accomplished, more defined, but they are raw at the same time, which is quite particular.’

This is something he was looking for, because ‘it’s a way to be more transparent to the vintage, appellation and terroir’

Pros and cons

Other producers express a similar scepticism about the ability of wines to breathe in glass vessels.

‘I like the purity of it,’ says Eric Narioo, producer with his wife Anna Martens of Vino di Anna in Etna, but the problem is ‘it doesn’t breathe at all.’

What this means for him is a slower fermentation, and more reductive notes than you would get if using wooden containers.

They produce Vigna Pirao, a red field blend of pre-phylloxera, ungrafted Nerello Mascalese (and other varieties) – and one of 13 cuvées – in glass demijohns, but to counter the reduction problem, the wine settles in 600-litre chestnut barrels for six weeks.

‘There, it kind of recomposes itself, and then the wine is happier,’ Narioo says. ‘It does breathe before going back into the bottle.’

But the reasons for not adopting Wineglobes aren’t always technical.

For Rajat Parr in the US, using them became financially untenable. After producing his pink-skinned Chardonnay grown on Phelan Farm in San Luis Obispo Coast, California, for three straight vintages (2021-2023), he reversed course.

‘I loved it because the maceration was really even. The [Wineglobe] opening was small. And ageing it was great… It was completely pure.’

What he didn’t like was the turbidity, which meant the wines needed more time to settle – he was ageing them in the Wineglobe for just one year, but it would have taken two to three years to reach his preferred level of clarity, he says.

This, in the end, led him to sell his Wineglobe. ‘If I had a lot of money, I would have bought more of them and figured out a way to settle the wines longer.’

All in the mix

Still, winemakers are increasingly turning towards glass – and other neutral vessels – to create purer expressions of terroir.

Many, like Gravner, see them as part of a broader cellar, which doesn’t necessitate abandoning oak entirely.

At Domaine François Chidaine in the Loire, for instance, Pierre Chidaine makes a Chenin Blanc from an even mix of oak and Wineglobes (his mother Manuéla insisted that 100% glass would be too much of a stylistic shift).

What is clear is that the search for neutrality – containers that exercise little or no influence on the wines during production – will increasingly come into play, even if producers don’t make a total switch.

Felix Gabillet, winemaker at England’s Hambledon Wine Estate, for instance, has recently brought in clay, ceramic and glass (Wineglobes) alongside the stainless steel and oak they already work with.

‘The main objective,’ he explains, ‘is to preserve the fruit and the minerality and salinity of the terroir, to bring maturity and complexity without masking the wine with oak.’

The Hambledon team did the first tasting post-fermentation of those vessels in November 2025, and they were very pleased with the results.

‘There is a difference in texture and volume already between them and in comparison with our standard tanks and oak barrels,’ he says. ‘Each of those vessels brings something very interesting.’

The future, it appears, is a greater mix of vessels in wine cellars.

For Antoine Arraou of Château Lafitte in Jurançon – who works with everything from stainless steel and oak barrels to concrete eggs, stoneware, terracotta and porcelain – the key is to find what works best for the raw material.

‘I don’t believe any grape variety is inherently meant for a particular vessel,’ he says.

Still: ‘True neutrality exists,’ he insists, ‘at least, the form of neutrality that best respects the grape.’

Hart’s pick: 10 varied and fascinating wines made using alternative vessels

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Endless flux

Real life is not, sadly – or perhaps fortunately – like in the movies.

If you’re thinking of investing in a winery and making it your retirement project, think again. You might be signing up for early cardiac arrest.

Travelling with photographer Abel Valdenebro, who specialises in wine and other beverages, food and architecture, among other topics, we were certainly left almost out of breath after a few days following two leading Rioja bodegueros – a term that loosely translates as ‘general manager’ (the latter not fully capturing the symbolic weight of the job title in Spanish).

Tailing Richi Arambarri Perez of Vintae and Jose Ramón Urtasun of Remírez de Ganuza as they went about their business was neither easy nor boring.

The fast pace and multiple, often competing, demands that shape the days of a bodeguero reflect the many ways in which the wine industry has changed over the last couple of decades – and the many different challenges and opportunities that continue to arise.

There’s a restlessness in their days, catalysed by a sense of urgency – the need to grab (and create) prospects and compensate for tough market conditions.

However, that sense of urgency and creative anxiety is as much a product of their personalities as it is of the context that surrounds them.

Intensity in focus

These are individuals who don’t know either idleness or loitering.

You won’t find them resting on a hammock, enjoying the comfort of having built successful ventures.

In fact, it’s a deep awareness of the fragility of success that keeps them motivated and determined; an acknowledgement that this is the tough yet beautiful essence of what they do.

The wine industry is, primarily and above all, a farming venture; transience and vulnerability live alongside heritage; it’s a long-term project shaped by short-term, ever-shifting variables.

So Abel and I set our alarm clocks for painfully early wake-ups before jumping onto two intense, albeit very different, rollercoaster rides.

The routines and personalities of the two bodegueros we shadowed are very different – but equal in intensity and focus.

The structure of their days mirrors not only their idiosyncrasies but also the nature of their very different companies.

What did we learn?

That passion and grit take you to the end of each day; competence and strategic thinking keep you going for years.

And that, through it all, you need a good, equally committed team around you.

Morning fever

Arambarri gets out of bed while the house is still quiet and changes into his running gear.

‘I just need the movement and energy to start the day. In winter I might even go to the slopes,’ he explains, referring to Valdezcaray, the pistes around the San Lorenzo peak, 15km southeast of the quaint mountain town of Ezcaray and a mere 45-minute drive southwest of Logroño.

However, spring has sprung, so Arambarri leaves for a run across Logroño’s old town – where he lives with his young family – over the Puente de Piedra bridge and along the Ebro river.

He keeps an eye on his watch and loops back for a shower before taking four-year-old Sofia to the nursery.

After cycling back home to drop off his bike, Arambarri cuddles one-year-old Nicolás before checking in at Vintae’s Logroño offices, down the road from his flat.

The headquarters are the beating heart of the group’s many wineries, brands and projects, including Rioja producers Hacienda López de Haro and El Pacto, Toro’s Matsu and Aroa in Navarra.

Perpetual commute

Urtasun’s day starts very differently – 355km away from Rioja.

Based in Madrid, on any given morning he’s either walking his boys to school, heading to the airport or driving to the winery in Samaniego, 15km west of Haro, north of the Ebro.

Today he’s en route to Remírez de Ganuza for a regular catch-up with the team.

‘It’s important to come back regularly. Beyond the logistical and management side of things, it’s essential to stay in touch with what really matters and the reason we do this in the first place,’ he says.

The drive takes him just over three hours; all going smoothly, he’s in Samaniego in time for lunch.

Weeks can easily go by without time to visit the winery, though.

Juggling personal life, work at the Madrid office and the tough travel schedule he’s been fighting against – with limited success – is notoriously difficult.

‘We’ve expanded the [commercial] team; mostly so that I’m not dealing with so many markets myself and travelling so much. But as soon as [the importers and PR agencies] hear we’ve employed someone, I start getting phone calls: “So Jose, does this mean you now have more time to visit us?”. It’s a losing battle…’

In an industry built upon trust and human connection, Urtasun acknowledges that it’s important for wine companies to have a face. ‘Relationships are the basis of our work.’

Tricky balance

The perpetual tension between ‘working the global room’ and staying put, going through to-do lists, is one of the main challenges of the bodeguero’s life.

Time away means that other things in the business don’t move as quickly or are left on hold. But the quest for balance is not just an operational matter.

‘Time with the kids is precious,’ says Arambarri.

‘[Having children] has changed the way I relate to work. I used to travel more than half of the time, without giving it much thought. Now, I’ve set limits. Nothing makes up for time away from them,’ he concludes.

Those limits are still, however, very much above those of a civilian: no more than two weeks a month, with no more than five consecutive days if possible.

Urtasun echoes this feeling, amplified by the fact that he shares custody of his two boys with his ex-wife.

‘I plan travel around the time I have with the kids. It’s tough, both logistically and emotionally.’

Business of people

With all cogs turning at the office, Arambarri leaves for Cárdenas, the small village between Logroño and Ezcaray that is the epicentre of El Pacto, a range of wines produced in the Sonsierra, in the far northwest of the Rioja Alta sub-region, and Alto Najerilla at Rioja Alta’s southern edge.

Ever the master of optimisation, he’s combined a catch-up with the viticultural team with a visit from Asturian distributors and a nourishing Riojan almuerzo (like ‘elevenses’).

The entourage convenes at Cárdenas’ main square, seemingly doubling the village’s population in a matter of minutes.

The group consolidates by the two four-wheel drives piloted by Arambarri and Fernando García, El Pacto’s viticultural manager, and everyone heads to the two plots – Pieza la Villa and Senda de Haro – that supply the grapes for the El Pacto flagship Jesús Acha wines.

From there, they head to the 100-year-old Valdechuecas vineyard (see ‘Rioja Report 2026. Garnacha & friends - Tapping into history and modernity ).

Following a walk through the gnarly vines, the team sets up a tasting of El Pacto’s new releases and makes a fire from sarmientos (vine cuttings) to barbecue some lamb chops.

Back in Samaniego, Urtasun is catching up with Jesús Mendoza, the star winemaker who has been at Remírez de Ganuza’s technical helm since 2001, having joined the team in 1994.

The relationship between the two evolved through years of a gradual leadership transition from Fernando Remírez de Ganuza to Urtasun, whose family acquired the winery in 2019.

Urtasun spent the following years, until Remírez de Ganuza’s death at the age of 73 in 2024, working alongside the founder to ensure continuity and a full understanding of the winery’s ethos, which Mendoza helped to shape.

The two discuss the evolution of the wines, analytical samples and operational planning before synchronising watches ahead of a visit and tasting with a journalist (yours truly).

‘Jesús is obsessive. His attention to detail, precision and cleanliness are just incredible,’ says Urtasun as if the latter wasn’t obvious, given the pristine condition of the winery – and as if he didn’t share some of that obsessive nature himself.

Focused restlessness

Not wanting to waste either samples or time, Arambarri loads the bottles from the mid-morning barbecue into the boot and calls the team at Nublo, the one-star Michelin restaurant in Haro, to say that he’ll pop in before service if convenient.

The answer is an easy and eager yes.

But before going to Haro, Arambarri needs to stop by the aerodrome where he keeps his small plane.

‘You have to fly regularly. It’s a necessity so you can be safe.’

The wind, however, is not cooperating. ‘I’d fly alone today, but not with a passenger [Decanter’s very relieved photographer] who has never flown with me before. It gets wobbly up there on a day like this and it’s not good if you freak out inside such a small plane,’ he says, not even half joking.

He’s flown his plane to the Balearics, Madrid, Málaga, Galicia and Jerez. ‘Isa [Isabel García Castellanos, Arambarri’s wife and Vintae’s marketing director] is not a fan, though,’ he says. We certainly don’t blame her.

Arambarri is a man of many hobbies. Look closely, however, and you’ll realise that there’s a focus to all of them, an accumulation of personal resources that allow him to perform best on his intense entrepreneurial front.

In early May, Vintae announced a structural and financial plan to take over Bodegas Riojanas after the historic winery went into administration earlier this year.

This comes after the announcement, in 2025, of Vintae regaining 100% ownership of iconic vermouth brand El Bandarra, and of a partnership with Bodega Terramoll in Formentera, whose operations and sales it now oversees.

Sitting (not winding) down

Meanwhile, at Remírez de Ganuza, Urtasun and I are sitting down for a long session of analytical tasting.

He takes a step back and lets the winemaker lead, listening eagerly and commenting occasionally while repeatedly checking his phone.

‘This thing is relentless. There’s no downtime.'

As the tasting wraps up and Mendoza begins tidying up, the winery hospitality team is already waiting for their meeting with Urtasun.

‘Visits and cellar-door sales have grown a lot,’ he explains. ‘It’s important to have the right people and keep things running smoothly.’

Then it’s off to check on how Olagar, the 1978 plot in San Vicente de la Sonsierra that yields the fruit for Remírez de Ganuza’s white Gran Reserva (see ‘Rioja Report 2026. White Rioja: A Successful quest for excellence), is responding after two months of intense rains.

Against the backdrop of dramatic, thunderous clouds, Urtasun acknowledges that it’s time for dinner before it starts pouring down.

Sure enough, the skies open as he’s driving to Haro, for dinner at Los Caños, where the team welcomes him with both familiarity and deference.

He discusses which wines customers have been interested in lately, which bottles most excite the team at the moment; he asks the sommelier to suggest a bottle.

Is he relaxing now? Is he still on the job? These questions are perhaps meaningless.

‘This is not just work,’ he says. ‘It’s almost the way that we see the world.’

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This isn’t the time for bold, oaky or concentrated Champagnes that demand large glasses (which warm up faster) and mild serving temperatures.

We want wines that offer ultimate refreshment value, and can be served very cold.

The key is to look for clean-cut Champagnes that, even if uncomplicated and affordable, don’t skimp on class.

Which styles to go for?

Head for Chardonnay-dominant Champagnes, made exclusively from Champagne’s brightest, zestiest grape variety.

Chardonnay tends to be a little lighter on its feet than Pinot Noir, often with slightly higher acidity and lots of refreshing citrus flavour.

For the clean-cut, polished examples, look for classic blanc de blancs from Champagne’s top maisons.

There are crisp, youthful and affordable non-vintage blanc de blancs from the likes of Henriot; classy, longer-aged versions such as Charles Heidsieck’s Blanc de Blancs; or purity and poise from Laurent-Perrier’s Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature.

Independent growers in Champagne make a range of Chardonnay-led styles, sometimes crisp and snappy, sometimes bolder and more suited to the table.

In the former camp, Etienne Calsac makes Les Rocheforts from Chardonnay, ripe but bristling with refreshing bitter citrus and stony intensity – a real pick-me up.

Other parts of Champagne, though, can still turn out beautiful and refreshing Chardonnays, even if they are often a little rounder and less piercing.

Charpentier’s Terre d’Emotion Blanc de Blancs, from the far western end of the Marne Valley towards Paris, shows beautiful clarity and texture from this under-rated biodynamic grower.

Rosé refreshment

There are plenty of rosé Champagnes that feature Chardonnay heavily, too.

Up-and-coming boutique house Lallier is a Chardonnay expert based in the Côte des Blancs, and its Réflexion R.021 Rosé sits beautifully between pink-grapefruit snappiness and fresh strawberry juiciness.

Pushing the Chardonnay influence even further brings us to what is informally called rosé des blancs, or rosé from white grapes – essentially blanc de blancs with a splash of light red Pinot Noir added before being bottled for second fermentation.

You get the colour, and a lick of red fruit, but the build is pure, racy refreshment.

Delamotte Rosé, from the Chardonnay-specialist house, is a sophisticated treat, while in independent Champagne you could look towards the slightly more fruit-forward, rounder A Bergère Rosé NV from just to the south of the Côte des Blancs.

Four Champagnes to beat the heat

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Washington is a winemakers’ playground. Unburdened by strict rules, they can freely experiment with grape varieties, wine styles, vine-growing practices and blends to produce some of the most impressive wines in the US.

Here, Rhône varieties such as Syrah are transformed into wines that don’t mimic their predecessors, but rather express their own regional character or follow winemakers’ unbridled imaginations.

‘You’re free to make your own wine the way you choose,’ says Brian Rudin, winemaker and general manager of Echolands Winery, a two-time Decanter World Wine Awards Platinum winner that also makes multiple Syrah bottlings.

‘You don’t need to make it the way your grandparents did.’

Syrah has been a leader among these experiments since it was planted in Washington 40 years ago, with a rapidly developing range of styles true to the terroirs of the Walla Walla Valley, Red Mountain AVA and beyond.

The grape variety appeals to winemakers and wine lovers for creating approachable, food-friendly wines with ripe fruit flavours, complexity and general lushness.

The rise of Washington Syrah

‘Syrah can be a good introductory wine to newcomers – and we certainly need newcomers – but, at the same time, satisfy the needs of the most advanced wine aficionado,’ says Dick Boushey, a pioneering Washington grapegrower.

‘Syrah’s diversity and adaptability are its strengths. Syrah can take the increased heat that we have seen up and down the West Coast. So, it is a variety that is sustainable for the future.’

The first Washington Syrah plantings are credited to Mike Sauer and his family in 1986, in their Red Willow Vineyard in Yakima Valley.

By contrast, Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced to the state in 1941, with Merlot following in 1965, according to the Washington State Wine Commission, bringing the state renown with bottlings from the likes of Leonetti Cellars and Quilceda Creek.

However, Syrah is now a close competitor with Merlot for the second most-planted red variety, with more than 6,300 hectares to Cabernet’s 19,400+ hectares.

Besides being bottled as a single-varietal wine, Syrah is also used in many blends with other Rhône varieties or Cabernet, a decisive factor in its growth.

Producers such as Columbia Winery and now-closed McCrea Cellars encouraged the early plantings of Syrah, while the bold, modern wines from the likes of K Vintners and Cayuse Vineyards helped put Washington Syrah on the radar of a wider range of wine drinkers.

How Washington Syrah styles differ by region

Washington’s major wine regions yield several distinctive styles of Syrah, according to Boushey.

In the warmer parts of the broad Columbia Valley AVA, the wines tend to be inky, ripe and dark – similar to bold California wines.

In cooler areas, like the foothills of Yakima Valley, the wines show more acidity, savoury notes and lower alcohol levels.

In southeastern Walla Walla Valley, where the AVA spreads across the border between Washington and Oregon, Syrah has become the signature variety of The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater.

Here, the cobblestone-filled soils become the main story, leading to wines with signature notes of earth, meat, iodine and herbs.

‘The radiant heat from the exposed basalt stones contributes greatly to the profile that Rocks wines carry,’ says Trey Busch, winemaker of Sleight of Hands Cellars, a Washington winery that owns Stoney Vines Vineyard in The Rocks. (Because the district falls entirely within Oregon, many Washington wineries end up making wines from both states.)

Busch continues: ‘The vines spend more time "shut down" during the hottest days, preserving energy and simply surviving in such a harsh climate. The vine roots also go extremely deep since there is not much soil or moisture-holding capacity.’

How Washington Syrah styles are shaped in the vineyard

Straddling the windswept ridgeline of Red Mountain, WeatherEye Vineyards makes its own Syrah and provides fruit to wineries such as Liminal and MTN/ART.

There, vineyard manager Ryan Johnson has been fine-tuning the viticulture to coax out Syrah’s best qualities. Working with a little less than three hectares of the 16-hectare vineyard planted with Syrah, he became one of the few Washington growers to use the échalas system, with each vine is trained on its own tall stake.

Since Red Mountain is hot, windy and dry, Ryan increased the vine density, creating more natural shade to protect the fruit. As a result, he gets complex, singular wines from this site.

‘Syrah is very site-driven and also very strongly influenced viticulturally,’ Johnson explains. ‘You can farm it conventionally, you can grow it like Cabernet, you can treat it in the cellar like generic reds, and you'll get a generic red wine. But if you match the right training system, the right terroir and the right clone, and then manage your irrigation and nutrition at the highest level, you’ll get that ultimate expression.’

Responding to current market demands, more young Washington winemakers are turning towards lighter wines, Syrah included.

Since 2019, Kelsey Albro Itämeri of Itä Wines has been picking the fruit she sources from Les Collines Vineyard in southeastern Walla Walla very early to avoid overripeness.

That way she doesn’t need to make water or acid additions to adjust the alcohol level and balance of the wines. As a result, Itä Syrah comes in at only 12% abv, with low levels of tannins.

‘If you want to taste the place, Syrah does an excellent job of doing that,’ says Itämeri.

‘It is also delicious. It’s a little bit wild and a little feral and has some magnetism to it. It’s not just fruity. It is also savoury. It has the edge. It makes you think. As people grow in their love of wine, they don’t just want a fruit bomb, they want a wine that is interesting.’

11 Washington-made Syrahs to try

Wine selection and tasting notes by Gwendolyn Elliott

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The sense of rivalry that once existed among winemakers globally has largely faded, replaced by a culture of exchange and mutual support.

Today, producers build their experience across borders and hemispheres, travelling widely and working harvests in different regions. Sharing knowledge has become the norm.

Historically, Spanish wine producers haven’t always excelled at collective action or setting aside individual interests for the greater good; however, a new generation of winemakers has begun to redefine that narrative.

Embracing the idea that together they are stronger, they’ve moved beyond small groups to form broader movements that cut across traditional boundaries.

Under the radar

This shift has gained momentum in Rioja with the launch of VIR, a terroir-focused collective that debuted in Madrid in early March with a tasting showcasing 38 producers from 18 villages across the DOCa region.

Many of the participants represented emerging projects that remain largely under the radar.

‘We firmly believe that Rioja is home to the greatest variety of exciting projects, which, unfortunately, are overshadowed by industrial-scale wineries that have appropriated the narrative of family-run, artisanal producers,’ argues regional rising star Miguel Merino, one of the organisers.

The March tasting offered a snapshot of Rioja’s growing terroir movement, bringing new names to the fore and highlighting the diversity of styles within this vision.

It also presented a more specific Rioja, with a focus on villages, sites and individual vineyards, as well as a bolder reinterpretation of tradition informed by a global perspective.

‘We are the best-prepared generation yet,’ says Alberto Pedrajo, co-founder, alongside Javier Alonso, of the forward-thinking project Alonso & Pedrajo, based in Villalba de Rioja, near Haro. ‘We have travelled extensively and witnessed other movements that have inspired us.’

A pivotal event

For those attending the VIR event, the atmosphere echoed that of the I Encuentro de Viticulturas (‘First Wine Growing Encounter’), a conference on Spain’s wine regions, rural areas and unique vineyards, held in May 2016 at producer La Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri in Labastida (Rioja Alavesa).

Set in the foothills of Monte Toloño, a peak in the Sierra de Cantabria range, the gathering forged lasting connections between Spain’s early terroir pioneers – not least host Telmo Rodríguez – and a younger generation then beginning to raise the profile of fine wine across regions such as Galicia, Gredos, Priorat and Valencia.

Among those present at the 2016 conference were young Rioja producers who had taken over their parents’ small wineries, as well as others who had started projects from scratch.

Some were members of Rioja ’n’ Roll, a group founded the previous year to champion small-scale vignerons with strong ties to the land and rural life.

Its founding members – Alegre & Valgañón, Artuke, Barbarot, Exopto, MacRobert & Canals, Olivier Rivière, Sierra de Toloño and Tentenublo – were already producing, or would soon be producing, some of the most compelling and exciting wines in Rioja.

Less well known at the time, but equally committed, were two young wine-growers from San Vicente de la Sonsierra, a little southeast of Labastida: José Gil, whose family runs Bodegas Olmaza, and Miguel Eguíluz of Bodegas Cupani (pictured, below).

The 2016 Wine Growing Encounter proved pivotal. ‘We realised how important it was to share ideas, build connections with other producers and move in the same direction,’ explained Gil a few years later, as his wines began to gain international recognition.

It’s no surprise that they went on to establish their own group, 'Martes of Wine', alongside other emerging producers, including Carlos Sánchez (Labastida); Miguel Merino, who in 2017 returned to start working full-time at the winery founded in 1994 by his father in Briones (Miguel Sr died in 2021); Ricardo Fernández (Abeica), who steered his family estate in Abalos towards a terroir-focused approach before turning 30; and Alvaro Loza, who returned to Rioja in 2019 after gaining experience abroad.

Shared values

Martes of Wine began informally as a tasting group, with sommelier Iván Sánchez from the Michelin two-star Venta Moncalvillo restaurant in Daroca de Rioja (southwest of Logroño) also taking part.

What started as informal blind tastings held on Tuesdays (martes in Spanish) gradually evolved into a functional network, sharing resources, acquiring cellar equipment, finding importers, visiting wine-producing regions and inviting wine professionals to share their knowledge.

The shared values of Rioja ’n’ Roll and Martes of Wine ultimately laid the groundwork for VIR.

Its origins were simple: a meeting between the two groups that led to a joint list of like-minded producers whom they would like to bring together for a tasting of contemporary Rioja. ‘Almost everyone got involved,’ they say.

The aim was not just to raise awareness, but also to convey a vision of wine based on protecting origin, vineyard identity and respect for the landscape.

‘We are committed to a sustainable model – economic, social and environmental – that safeguards both the dignity of the wine-grower and the future of our villages,’ states their manifesto, which was read out twice during the event.

The group also called for ‘solidarity among producers pursuing and championing their own projects’.

Changing mindsets

Despite their dynamism, this new golden generation, which produces some of Rioja’s most exciting wines, still faces significant barriers in reaching importers, distributors and sommeliers.

Many express frustration that the market’s upper end continues to view Rioja through a narrow, outdated lens.

‘Some importers see Rioja as a source of cheap, boring, homogeneous wine,’ notes Vicky Fernández, partner of José Gil at Vignerons de la Sonsierra, and closely involved in planning the VIR tasting.

‘They even have the wrong idea about what the region looks like,’ adds Pedrajo. ‘They expect something similar to La Mancha [in central Spain’s vast plains], so they’re really struck by the real landscape of Rioja.’

The goal for all these independent producers is now to convince importers to include not just one Rioja in their portfolio, but six, eight or 10 – and by doing so, to reveal their awareness of both the region’s quality and diversity.

The energy generated by this gathering of like-minded producers reflects the collaborative spirit that has come to define this new generation, rather than being a response to the current – challenging – market situation.

‘We wanted to encourage our distributors and customers to meet our fellow producers,’ explains Arturo de Miguel of Artuke in Baños de Ebro. ‘There are many fascinating small-scale projects in Rioja now.’

The tasting drew strong interest to producers such as Artuke, José Gil, Miguel Merino and Laguardia-based Oxer Bastegieta, among others.

The presence of San Vicente de la Sonsierra-based Abel Mendoza, who has embodied the vigneron role model better than anyone else in Rioja, added weight to the event.

Together with his wife, Maite Fernández, he has supported rising star Jade Gross in launching her own project in the region.

Other producers who have encouraged winegrowers to make the leap into winemaking include Telmo Rodríguez, who has supported Remelluri suppliers such as Alain Quintana from Familia Quintana in this transition. Alain and Jade were at the VIR tasting.

Bodegas Tierra also showcased its wines alongside those of nearby Area Pequeña after inviting brothers Joseba and Koldo García Quintana to make use of Tierra’s facilities in Labastida.

Practical benefits

Collaboration in Rioja now extends well beyond these groups.

In September 2024, Menudas Bodegas was established, bringing together 11 microproducers, each producing fewer than 5,000 bottles.

While modest in scale, the initiative has proved to be a significant step forward for its members, who typically farm their own vineyards and often have other jobs.

They’ve gained visibility and access to public funding, and support one another by pooling resources for practical matters, such as buying a barrel-washing machine or corks for the whole group.

They are also advocating for a reduction in bureaucracy, arguing that small producers face the same administrative burdens as large wineries.

Among their priorities is the removal of the DOCa requirement for a minimum of 50 barrels to certify ageing.

Navarrete-based Elena Corzana, one of the association’s most prominent members, known for her varietal wines, took part in the VIR tasting.

Subsierra, an association focusing on the Sierra de Cantabria foothills, which stretch from Briñas, just above Haro, to Moreda de Alava, north of Logroño, was also established in 2024.

Its members – Amaren, Area Pequeña, Artuke, Bodegas Tierra, Carlos Sánchez, Loli Casado, Ostatu and Teodoro Ruiz Monje – are committed to owning their own vineyards or maintaining long-term relationships with growers in the Sonsierra, paying fair (above the average) prices for fruit.

They’re equally determined to ensure the continuation of manual harvests, to preserve old vineyards, to remain family-run, with a registered address in the Sonsierra, and to have vineyards that are certified organic or in conversion.

All these groups share an underlying theme: a deep commitment to the land and a determination to enhance its value. Rioja is lucky to have them.

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The best bottles are always something more.

They are talismanic rites of passage to a place distant from the putative truths of empirical analysis, or the shallow notion that a wine is only as good as what is in the glass.

In the brittle cold of Paris in early January, as I struggled with the ignition of my rental car, I reminded myself that I was on my way to experience one of those bottles: a Romanée-Conti 1899, believed to be the last remaining.

This sort of bottle is usually traded at considerable profit.

Indeed, Romanée-Conti 1945 holds the record for the highest price ever fetched at auction: US$812,500 at Acker’s La Paulée sale in March this year. But the 1899 was purchased by Soo Hoo Khoon Peng to drink, a belated celebration of his 50th birthday.

A collector, businessman and co-owner of renowned Australian Pinot Noir producer Bass Phillip, Soo Hoo believes that wine ‘isn’t about status, but learning and human connection’, and was adamant that the bottle be shared among friends. I was glad to be among them.

I arrived at Michelin one-star restaurant Auprès de Clocher in Pommard to glimpse the time capsule set on a mantle, replete with a gloriously tattered label and a relatively healthy fill.

Its heavy lead capsule was unblemished but for a chip here and there and a crease of rust.

The bottle augured well for the long lunch ahead, while photographers from major news networks dispersed and guests arrived.

‘Mercifully, the bottle wasn’t corked. Miraculously, it wasn’t volatile!’

Among those guests was Maison Pion fine wine director and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) specialist Régis Cimmati, who estimated the bottle’s worth at about US$118,000 based on provenance alone, going to great lengths to decipher the label’s nomenclature,

‘Seign…et’ indicating that the bottle had been sold to Bordeaux trader Seignouret, owned by the de Brou de Laurière family.

The guest of honour, however, was DRC co-owner Aubert de Villaine, who at 87 wove an array of anthologies with a historical loom, bringing the magical bottle to life with a glint in his eye and a spritely cadence to words that felt like an incantation.

He explained that the wine would have been bottled in Santenay back then, the barrels transported by horse and cart.

When the wine was made, Romanée-Conti was owned by families Guyot and Chambon, each surname visible on opposite sides of the label.

The Guyot clan later sold in 1912 to Jacques Chambon and Edmond Gaudin de Villaine and the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was established.

Cimmati explained that the bottle was sold at a local auction in a six-pack, designated ‘19th Century Red Wines’, after the last member of the de Brou de Laurière family died, in 2011.

Due to label damage, the bottle went unrecognised and the entire lot sold for barely €50!

De Villaine celebrated this with a grin, inferring his displeasure with the secondary market and its extreme pricing, while admitting he had never tasted a pre-1900 bottle; the oldest in the domaine’s stock dates to 1911.

The 1899 was later salvaged by a discerning buyer and eventually sold to Soo Hoo.

Another guest, Wine Advocate editor in chief William Kelley, was nominated to draw the cork. I breathed a sigh of relief that the responsibility wasn’t mine.

Mercifully, the bottle wasn’t corked. Miraculously, it wasn’t volatile!

A shimmering tawny tinged with red, vital and poised, there were hints of dried quince and tea leaf, sure, but the wine transcended any obvious fruit flavours with an incandescent, ineffable beauty.

Monsieur de Villaine swooned over the lingering finish, while Kelley noted a ‘heady vinosity’, born of prephylloxera vines. Cimmati enthused: ‘These pre-war ungrafted bottles are the pinnacle of the craft.’

There were other great bottles served that day, with my hat tipped to the 1980 La Tâche. Yet as friendships were kindled, wine’s spellbinding capacity to bring people together in celebration of a moment, resolute and invigorating, was clear.

A memento mori amid a cast of stars, the 1899’s semiotic powers were unrivalled.

In my glass this month

Under the aegis of Federico Seghesio, Renzo Seghesio is a Barolo name on the rise, offering visceral joy across the range. However, it’s an outlier, Nebbiolo from the sandy turf of Roero – Roè 2023 – that sits in my glass most nights.

From a warm vintage, yet Nebbiolo’s perk and twirl are in full flight, as if the rose petal, kirsch and briar of Grenache has met the forestry accents of Pinot, all nicely compressed by Nebbiolo’s sinewy tannins.

One sip soon leads to a large draught and then an empty bottle. Best guzzled on the cooler side.

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What do farm-to-table and your favourite spirit have in common? More than you think. Just as your favourite vegetable tastes better plucked straight from the garden, a spirit crafted with estate-grown ingredients, only a stone’s throw from the distillation room, is more artisanal and flavourful.

The concept isn’t new – origin and provenance have applied to wine for centuries – but a renewed awareness and interest in vertically integrated products is growing the category. So much so that it has its own term: seed-to-spirit.

‘Seed-to-spirit is a natural extension of farm-to-table [as] it brings that same transparency and connection to origin into the world of spirits,’ says Rico Dynan, global brand ambassador for Absolut Vodka.

Absolut’s One Source philosophy was a founding principle of the distillery which is based in Åhus, Sweden, and it’s still implemented today, to showcase the traceability of its core ingredients. The wheat and water are both sourced from the same southern Swedish community where the vodka is distilled.

Seed-to-spirit basics

Also called grain-to-glass or barn-to-barrel, the vertically integrated blueprint is attractive to both consumers and producers. The shorter supply chain is more environmentally responsible, there’s an appeal of quality control and it’s financially beneficial to both parties.

Proof that beyond market trends, seed-to-spirit holds the potential to change the future of how we produce, consume and view spirits.

First and foremost, the ethos of seed-to-spirit ‘reminds people that distillation begins in the soil, not in a factory,’ says Kirsty Black, Master Distiller at Arbikie Distillery in Montrose, Scotland.

Raw ingredients and regional identity

For vodka, this means shifting away from pigeon-holeing the spirit into the ‘neutral’ category – repositioning it from a blank canvas to a spirit with flavour, texture and even terroir. ‘That’s fundamentally changing how vodka is judged and enjoyed,’ says Black.

For gin, tequila and whisky, seed-to-spirit may seem more inherent, but the increased attention to sourcing repositions new opportunities for drinkers to consider every step of production before buying a bottle.

In agave spirits, this is a focus on cultivation and regional identity. In whisky, it applies to grain provenance and long-term agricultural unions. For gin, a pure base spirit allows the botanicals to become the primary focus of storytelling.

‘Because gin is built around layered aromatic ingredients, the seed-to-spirit movement allows distillers to showcase biodiversity and terroir in a uniquely creative way,’ says Guy Brennan, cofounder and CEO of Procera, a gin expressing African terroir. ‘It creates space for regional identity.’

Quality control

Traceability doesn’t just make for a better story, it results in better taste. Whether farming their own land or sourcing from farms within a limited radius, when distilleries are able to oversee every step from seed selection to maturation ‘flavour is considered right from the start, not engineered at the end,’ explains Black.

That control is what attracted Chris Pateman to the Lancaster Spirits Company, a self-titled grain-to-glass distillery in northern England specialising in craft batch single malt English whisky. ‘There’s no automation; we are doing everything by hand on a proper small scale,’ he shares.

Pateman comprises one of two team members who run the entire production process. Part of their quality assurance includes a weekly tracker of grain, water and wash used for resource management. ‘We can quite literally batch check everything we make from start to finish,’ says Pateman.

An important clarification, however, is that quality control doesn’t equate to uniformity. Instead, after decades of distilleries prioritising consistency, seed-to-spirit recognises that variation is part of the story, embracing character, seasonality and authenticity.

Price tag

Vertically integrated spirits are cost effective for producers as they eliminate the middle man; labour and subsequent costs such as gas and transport fees, which are often projected on to the consumer. In England’s Lake District, Grasmere Distillery sources wheat for its single malt whisky directly from farmers. It then passes on those savings to the consumer.

‘In the UK, grain-to-glass is usually the cheaper product – it’s better and more unique for a lower price,’ says Paul Abbott, founder and head distiller.

It’s viable not only for consumers, but also the bar industry. Jared Boller, cocktail specialist at Kilgore Hospitality Group, explains a bartender’s perspective: ‘It’s in our best interest to create tighter sourcing relationships, accepting smaller batch sizes.’ The bar programme may need to be flexible with what’s available, but at least staff and imbiber aren’t overpaying for monotony.

Environmental bonus

Not only does seed-to-spirit production decrease transport emissions, but when distilleries are in charge of their own crops, they have a vested interest in their land’s longevity. In Kentucky, Maker’s Mark is transitioning its corn and wheat to Regenified certification for regenerative agriculture to encourage long-term soil health.

At its Star Hill Farm, Maker’s Mark focuses on treating the wheat types grown with regenerative farming practices ‘as a primary driver of complexity, not just an ingredient’, says Rob Samuels, managing director. The quality of flavour is a subsequent result of healthy soil.

In Scotland, Arbikie uses alternative home-grown crops, such as peas, in its Nàdar Gin. The crop requires little or no nitrogen, which can result in a climate-positive spirit. The distillery itself was born from the need to find a home for its potatoes that didn’t meet retail specifications; Tattie Bogle Potato Vodka was its first release, ensuring a continuous process and less waste on the farm.

Back to nature

The shift in consumer preferences towards the priority of integrity, not only in flavour, but also in sourcing and impact, makes room in the market for more unique spirits that are ‘less about imitation and more about identity’, says Brennan. Ultimately, that identity reflects a specific destination’s ecosystem, ethos and culture that consumers can taste.

The shift ‘feels less like embracing a trend and more like returning to something fundamental’, he adds. Just as society did with the farm-to-table movement, we’ve realised things actually taste better when they are grown, harvested and treated as an agricultural product, not an industrial one.

Seed‑to‑spirit applies that mentality to what we’re drinking. Ultimately, it resonates because it ‘reconnects distillation with nature’, concludes Black.

Six tasty seed-to-spirit bottles to try

Absolut Vodka

Smooth and full-bodied with a fruity finish, Absolut brings a velvet-like texture to an Espresso Martini. Alcohol 40%

Arbikie 1794 Highland Rye Single Grain Scotch Whisky

Spiced pear aromas evolve into a dried fruit and nut cake in the mouth. Lighter-bodied yet ripe with flavour, try this single estate Scotch in a Rob Roy. Alc 48%

Oxbow Estate Rhum Louisiane

Layers of lemongrass, ripe plantain and dried mango define this single-barrel agricole rum that’s exclusively distilled once a year from the Louisiana-based Oxbow Distillery’s estate-grown sugarcane. It’s a strong base for a classic Daiquiri. Alc 45%

Procera Blue Dot Gin

A clean juniper backbone with notes of lime zest and fresh herbs, finishing with a lingering note of pink peppercorn. Incredibly smooth and medium-bodied, it’s the ideal Martini gin. Alc 44%

Solento Organic Tequila Extra Añejo

This single-estate tequila is aged for 40 months in American oak barrels for a sip that’s toffee-forward with hints of roasted almonds and candied-orange peel. Enjoy neat with an expressed orange peel. Alc 40%

Star Hill Farm Whisky

A nose that mimics freshly baked banana bread opens to a spiced honeycomb palate with warm cinnamon and a subtle oak finish. Crafted from three different types of wheat, the rich yet silky texture lends itself to a unique Manhattan. Alc 58.2%

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Few grapes have travelled the world as successfully as Shiraz. Born in France, made famous in Australia and now thriving everywhere from South Africa to California, it’s one of the most widely planted red varieties on the planet – and one of the most versatile, capable of everything from savoury, peppery elegance to rich, velvety power.

Why the fourth Thursday of July?

A Sydney-based wine marketing agency called Mastermind Consulting established International Shiraz Day in 2020. The agency chose the fourth Thursday in July, as it falls in the depths of the Southern Hemisphere winter, when a glass of warming Shiraz feels just right. However, it also neatly coincides with barbecue season north of the equator.

If you’re posting about the event, the official hashtag is #shirazwineday, not #shirazday. The latter belongs to a different celebration entirely, held each May in honour of the Iranian city of Shiraz.

French roots, Persian myths

That Iranian connection is no coincidence. According to popular folklore, the grape originated in the ancient Persian city, before Crusaders or pilgrims brought it to France. It was a nice story, but DNA testing in 1998 finally settled the matter.

Shiraz is in fact a native French grape, the natural offspring of two obscure varieties from south-eastern France, Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche.

The grape’s spiritual home is the northern Rhône, where it is known as Syrah. It produces the legendary wines of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie – savoury, perfumed reds layered with black pepper, smoked meat, olive and violet alongside the dark fruit. There’s a separate celebration, International Syrah Day, held annually on February 16, to honour the grape.

Two names, one global grape

Shiraz and Syrah are genetically identical, but the two names have come to signal two broad styles. ‘Syrah’ usually points to the restrained, savoury European model, while ‘Shiraz’ – the name adopted when the grape reached Australia in the 1830s – suggests a bolder, riper, fruit-forward wine.

Today the grape flourishes on almost every wine-producing continent. Australia remains its most famous New World home, from the old-vine blockbusters of the Barossa Valley to elegant cool-climate examples from the Adelaide Hills and Yarra Valley.

South Africa’s Stellenbosch and Swartland regions produce smoky, spice-laden wines that split the difference between the two styles, while California’s Paso Robles and Washington State lean plush and powerful. Chile and Argentina offer superb value, and even Spain, Italy and New Zealand have carved out their own takes on the grape. Wherever it grows, Shiraz keeps its signature: dark fruit, warmth and that unmistakable crack of black pepper.

International Shiraz Day is the perfect excuse to open something special. Fire up the barbecue, pour a generous glass and join the celebration.

15 award-winning Syrah wines to explore from DWWA 2026

Australia

Ferngrove, The Orchid Collection Dragon Shiraz, Frankland River, Western Australia 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
There's a lot more to Western Australia than just Margaret River, as all those who love Australian wines will know – but, until this year, no other region in this vast state has managed to win its way through to Best In Show. Happily, this outstanding Shiraz from Frankland River, one of the star zones in the vast expanse of Great Southern, has come bustling through this year to stake its claim. Our judges applauded the refinement, delicacy, purity and limpidity of this poised Shiraz midweight: floral perfumes suffusing red-fruit charm dominate the aromas, while the palate is ‘classy, effortless and long’, and sees the fruits modulating towards something just a little bit more savoury, though the full development of these characters will need to wait a year or two longer. It has texture, and acidity is well-judged, balanced and unobtrusive. Poise and refreshment await you. Alcohol 14.5%

Château Tanunda, 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia 2022
Platinum, 97 points
Generous blueberry, black pepper and milk chocolate aromas unravel onto the salivating palate, seamlessly integrating satin tannins and a warming shortbread backbone. Rippling violet florals gather steam ahead of the long, rousing finish. Definitive terroir portrayal. Alc 14.5%

E.J. McDougall, Old Vine Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2024
Platinum, 97 points
A masterstroke of the Rhone-style in an Australian context, emanating dark floral, purple fruit and gun powder aromas. Intoxicating and intense with elegant structure and a quivering pink peppercorn nerve that captures the mood perfectly. Alc 14.5%

Hare's Chase, Vigilance Marananga Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia 2022
Platinum, 97 points
Lashings of plum, blackcurrant and mulberry charm decadently complemented by a splash of soy sauce. Big and bold, furnished with velvety tannins, enriching fleshy texture and commanding pencil-shaving length. Plenty more to give in the future. Alc 14.5%

Katnook Estate, Prodigy Shiraz, Coonawarra, South Australia 2024
Platinum, 97 points
Bountiful blackberry, dark cherry, plum and damson fruit on a backdrop of eucalyptus and floral violet lift. Wonderfully silky smooth with a tangy acid momentum and fine, shapely tannins. Deliciously long, projecting incredible regional character. Alc 14.4%

Monteperle, Vineyard Selection Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia 2024
Platinum, 97 points
An all-consuming blackberry, liquorice and tar fragrance sizzles implacably around the nose, conjoining with spine-tingling peppery spice on the palate. A contemporary style, with abounding plush juiciness enveloping the core and varnishing the powerful finish. Alc 15.1%

Argentina

Bodega Puna, 2600 Syrah, Cachi, Salta 2025
Gold, 95 points
Pungent blue fruit, violet and black pepper perfume shimmers across the nose, diving into the concentrated palate with its tense acidity and full, distinguished tannins. Alc 13.1%

France

Maison Delas Frères, Seigneur De Maugiron, Côte Rotie, Rhône 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
Eleven Best In Show appearances for the Rhône Valley but never a Côte Rôtie… until this year. It's a wine from the 2023 vintage – a very good one in Côte Rôtie, since the deluge of rain that affected other parts of the Northern Rhône in mid-September spared this northernmost appellation almost entirely, and the slow start to the summer accelerated gratifyingly during an August when the terraces genuinely roasted. We don't, as we taste, know the precise vineyard sources for this wine, but in style it seems more Brune than Blonde: dark in colour, with splendidly smoky, tapenade-like aromas (some found undergrowth and stone) rather than pronounced floral lift, while the palate is poised, lively and vivacious but underscored by ample backbone and tension, too. Look out for the salty finish behind the fruits and the attractively forthright tannins. It's both classic and generous and would make a good prospect for ageing – though there's nothing overly forbidding for those who would like to start sooner. Alc 13%

Domaine De Castelnau, L'Etendoir des Fées, IGP Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon 2023
Platinum, 97 points
Sensational tapenade, black pepper and herb aromas lead the charge, colliding diligently with the blackberry juice intensity that flows liberally through to the finish line. Such amazing typicity, the sort of wine to dive right into. Alc 14.5%

Spain

Bodegas Piqueras, Nature Syrah, Almansa 2025
Gold, 95 points
Inspiring, fresh and approachable, combining black cherry and lifted floral aromas that flow continuously across the palate. Textural and fluid with polished tannins and appealing length. Alc 14.5%

United States

Hoquetus Wine Co., Francisca's Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington State 2023
Gold, 95 points
Earthy and robust with abundant tapenade, black pepper and dark berry aromas. Chewy oak tannins and meaty texture with a dusting of tobacco to end. Alc 14%

South Africa

Boschendal, Grande Syrah, Stellenbosch 2022
Gold, 95 points
A scrumptious array of beef rib-eye, mocha, dark cherry and prune aromas that swirl around the leathery texture and sleek tannins. Resplendent in charm and poise. Alc 14%

Kasteelberg, Carbonic Syrah, Swartland 2025
Gold, 95 points
Glorious blackberry, violet and rose petal aromatics tempered by a savouring black olive dimension. Crisp and bright with a glossy textural veneer. Evocative high altitude style. Alc 13.9%

New Zealand

Greystone Wines, Vineyard Ferment Syrah, Canterbury 2023
Platinum, 97 points
Wonderfully executed Syrah, spot on for its sense of place and character; black cherry, pomegranate, raspberry and black pepper spice thrives on the nose, tapered by the smart mineral core and effortless fluidity. Exquisitely long. Alc 13.%

Mudbrick Vineyard, Oscar, Waiheke Island, Auckland 2024
Gold, 96 points
Cool-toned dark cherry, blackcurrant and plum amplified by a black peppercorn and herbal elegance. Svelte and luxurious with salivating acidity and taffeta tannins to complete. Alc 14%

Search all DWWA 2026 results

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While most people plan to visit Spain during their summer holidays, there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy its best-known wine region throughout the year.

Whether it’s hitting the ski-slopes, joining a wine battle or tucking into some lamb chops with a bottle of wine, Rioja is a region for all seasons.

Winter

Hit the slopes in Valdezcaray

There’s no better place to combine a cold-weather adventure with sipping wine than Rioja, and in the colder months, many locals head to Valdezcaray.

Halfway up Pico San Lorenzo, the tallest mountain in La Rioja, it’s the region’s number one winter sports destination and the local alternative to the skiing on offer in the Pyrenees.

Remodelled in 2022, it has 24 different slopes and more than 22km of marked trails, with 12 advanced-level runs for expert skiers and snowboarders, and plenty of beginner and intermediate slopes.

Didn’t bring your own skis? No problem. Rent them on the mountain or from a local shop in the picturesque village of Ezcaray, where you can also enjoy an aprés-ski bottle of wine.

Spring

Pretend you’re a pilgrim

Rioja lies along the Camino de Santiago, or Way of St James, a medieval pilgrimage route across northern Spain that ends at the tomb of the apostle St James in Santiago de Compostela, in Galicia’s coastal northwest.

Though the traditional stages are in 20km-30km chunks, from Rioja’s administrative capital Logroño it’s only 12km to the nearby village of Navarrete.

Leaving Logroño, the Camino passes through La Grajera park before following the motorway through vine-covered countryside along a mix of dirt and paved paths, and passing the ruins of the 12th-century pilgrims’ hospital of San Juan de Acre shortly before entering Navarrete.

While you’re in the village, visit local winemaker Elena Corzana, who works with traditional local grape Maturana Tinta.

Taste wine in a castle

At the end of May, the historic hilltop town of San Vicente de la Sonsierra invites visitors to Catas en el Castillo (‘Wine Tastings at the Castle’), where they can discover local wines in the underground cellars within its walled castle grounds.

Attendees can explore the historic surroundings while tasting wines and chatting with growers, with the opportunity to buy wines directly from the winemakers.

This year, the €23 ticket included a wine glass, glass holder and seven tasting tokens.

Summer

Fight in Haro’s wine battle

At about seven in the morning on 29 June, hundreds of people dressed in white make their way to the cliffs of Bilibio, about 7km north of the town of Haro.

Their clothes don’t stay white for long: over the course of the day, revellers drench one another in red wine using everything from water pistols to buckets in the La Batalla del Vino de Haro (‘The Haro Wine Battle’).

To participate, just follow the dress code, bring plenty of red wine and make sure you have something to spray it with.

It’s also not a bad idea to bring goggles and waterproof bags.

Once you’ve arrived, there aren’t really any rules – just have fun!

Taste your way through the Barrio de la Estación

For those who prefer to keep their wine in a glass, the Cata del Barrio de la Estación is Haro’s other don’t-miss event.

Held every two years in the Barrio de la Estación, or Station Quarter, the event typically includes tastings of about a dozen wines, gourmet food pairings, guided winery experiences and live music.

Still home to historic wineries such as CVNE, La Rioja Alta and R López de Heredia, Haro’s Station Quarter dates back to the second half of the 19th century, when the arrival of the railway coincided with the arrival of French winemakers and traders looking for new places to make and source wine after vineyard crises caused by infestations such as phylloxera and mildew, leading to wineries springing up around the railway station.

Autumn

Celebrate the harvest in Logroño

Each September, Logroño hosts the Fiestas de San Mateo, a week-long harvest festival and the most important celebration in Rioja’s capital.

Timed to coincide with the start of the harvest, around 21 September, one of the most important events is the symbolic crushing of the first grapes, where freshly harvested fruit is pressed into must and offered to the Virgin of Valvanera, the patron of La Rioja.

Throughout the week, there’s plenty on offer between concerts, parades, fireworks and, of course, wine tastings.

Fall in love with lamb chops in Rioja Alavesa

Though they’re more often seen in the warmer months, when villages across Rioja light communal grills and cook in the streets, there’s something about the slight chill in the air of early autumn that makes chuletillas al sarmiento even more appealing.

Preparation is simple: lamb cutlets are seasoned with coarse salt before being grilled over a bundle of dried vine cuttings, or sarmientos.

A magical dish that can pair as well with a young, semi-carbonic Rioja as it does with a long-aged Gran Reserva, one of the best versions can be found at Asador Alai, in the Rioja Alavesa village of Labastida. @asadoralai

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Finding something to say about the collection of wines known colloquially as Super Tuscans isn’t particularly difficult.

But what kept guests at our recent masterclass at the Decanter New York Fine Wine Encounter hanging on right until the end was the unique way it was presented.

Led by Michaela Morris – long-time Decanter contributor, DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont, and expert on all things Tuscan – alongside myself – Decanter’s Regional Editor for Italy – the featured wines were arranged not by vintage, as is the norm, but as a timeline telling the story of the development of the category.

Evolution of an icon

In the 1970s and ’80s, Chianti (the birthplace of most Super Tuscans) was handicapped by legislation demanding the inclusion of white grapes, prioritising quantity over quality.

‘The SuperTuscans helped to improve the quality of wine coming out of Tuscany,’ explained Morris.

Antinori, Tignanello 2021

The first wine in the lineup needed little introduction: Tignanello’s place as one of the first Super Tuscans is cemented in history.

A Sangiovese-dominant blend with proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, tasting the 50th vintage of this storied wine was a breath of fresh air: dark fruits, zesty acidity, and balsamic herbs, tied together by fine tannins.

Isole e Olena, Cepparello 2021

Next came a pure Sangiovese, the flagship wine of the Isole e Olena property since its first vintage, 1980.

‘Cepparello was his [former owner Paolo de Marchi’s] study of Sangiovese,’ commented Morris, pointing out that rather than a single-vineyard selection, the best fruit from across the entire estate was used.

Juicy cherry fruits, refined tannins, a fragrant herbal twist and underlying sapidity mark this out as a classy, poised example of Italy’s most renowned red grape.

Fontodi, Flaccianello 2021

Arriving 10 years after Tignanello, this 100% Sangiovese shows great contrast between dark fruits and super-bright acidity in its 40th vintage.

Morris explained that Fontodi started as a family hobby, playing second-fiddle to the family's historic terracotta business.

As a result, it was younger brother Giovanni Manneti who inherited the winery, while his older brother was given the keys to the main family business.

The original plan was to switch every few years, but Giovanni fell in love with the wine industry and refused to leave!

Born as a single-vineyard expression, since 2001 Flaccianello has been a selection of the best fruit from the estate.

Concentrated, saline and zesty with structural tannins, the 2021 will reward ageing – as we found out at the end of the masterclass...

Bibi Graetz, Colore 2023

The final part of the Super Tuscan story brings us to the turn of the 21st century, when things had began to come full circle.

The new-look Chianti Classico had shed its restrictive and damaging requirement for white grapes in the blend, and the focus had swung to Sangiovese.

In this environment, and ‘not shackled by traditions,’ young Bibi Graetz set up shop in Fiesole.

His style has meandered over the years, finally settling on wines which showcase purity and finesse in equal measure.

Colore 2023, his flagship old-vine Sangiovese selection, shows ripe, creamy strawberry and raspberry on a long, precise, and textural palate.

The older vintages

While the first four wines mapped the story of the Super Tuscans, the back four were poured in vintage order, newest to oldest, enabling guests to understand how the wines evolve with age.

Bibi Graetz, Colore 2018

This 2018 vintage includes 5% Canaiolo and 5% Colorino compared to the 100% Sangiovese of 2023.

Showing beautifully, it develops black tea and blood orange notes which overlay dark berry and cherry fruits.

Isole e Olena, Cepparello 2015

From a generous, sunny but balanced vintage, Cepparello’s deep and concentrated cherry character is deeply inviting and perfectly translates the vintage, lifted by fresh minty notes and a dancing, vibrant palate.

Antinori, Tignanello 2013

This complex and deep pour shows its plummy, herbal side alongside appealing black tea and olive evolution.

It’s a fantastic vintage to discover, not just with Tignanello but with many other Tuscan reds, too.

Fontodi, Flaccianello 2006

Stealing the show, this structural and still-youthful sip is full of minty dark berries outlined by bright acidity.

According to Morris, this is ‘one of [owner] Giovanni Manetti’s favourite vintages’ – and it’s easy to see why.

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It's unlikely to be a final for the ages. Indeed, the majority of the post-match discussion (even several days later) has been on the antics of the losers, both during and after the game.

La albiceleste, unfortunately, did not cover themselves in much glory, playing an unprepossessing, undignified and cynical game – before lashing out at the opposition after the final whistle.

And while it took Spain 106 minutes to finally find the back of the net, find it they did (twice, some would say) and held their form to be crowned worthy champions.

Congratulations to Spain and also to our regional editor Ines Salpico, who gets office bragging rights for the next four years.

As a reminder, all the way back in early June, we picked 16 teams representing major wine-producing countries and eight of us on the editorial team took two teams each to cover.

Over the course of the tournament, we recommended 77 wines, making wild pairings and links with (at times) the unlikeliest of match-ups.

How do you pair Swiss Syrah with Qatar? Or Uruguayan Dolcetto with Cape Verde? Through a mix of ingenuity, out-of-the-box thinking and good old-fashioned brute force, everyone found a way.

Spain's wine route to the World Cup final

For eight games, Ines drew upon, not only her own intimate knowledge of the country's wines, but the sheer wealth and breadth of tremendous winemaking in Spain today.

This included classics such as CVNE's Imperial Gran Reserva and the new face of Rioja in wines such as Artuke's La Condenada.

Or there was Navarra's under-appreciated rosés, the almost unknown rosés from Txakoli and white wine from Jumilla.

The result is a small snapshot of contemporary Spain in eight wines.

With these wines as your base, throw in some wines from Catalonia, perhaps something from Andalusia and just one more from Galicia and you'd have a rather compelling mixed case to enjoy.

Game 1 (vs Cape Verde): Viña Zorzal, Garnacha Rosado, Navarra

Game 2 (vs Saudi Arabia): CVNE, Imperial Gran Reserva, Rioja

Game 3 (vs Uruguay): Telmo Rodriguez, Gaba Mencía, Valdeorras

Round of 32 (vs Austria): Stratum Wines, El Cerrico, Jumilla

Round of 16 (vs Portugal): Soca-Rel, Escursac, Mallorca

Quarter-final (vs Belgium): Rezabal, Txakoli Rosé, Basque Country

Semi-final (vs France): Francisco Barona, Finca las Dueñas Reserva, Ribera del Duero

Final (vs Argentina): Artuke, La Condenada, Rioja

Spain's World Cup wines

Wines here are listed by colour and by score

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As a ‘just moved out of home’ 18-year-old law and business student at the Queensland University of Technology in Brisbane, Australia, wine is not my usual go-to tipple.

My flatmates and I often host pre-drinks with our friends at our share house before heading out into the city for the night, and spirits and mixers are my usual choice. I’m gathering a small collection of sweet liqueurs, too.

However, a family dinner at my uncle and aunt’s home called for something more sophisticated than vodka and coke!

When it came to choosing my bottle for the night, I was perplexed by the wide variety of choice at my local Liquorland, so I decided to enlist some help from my mum.

Why I chose it

I explained to mum that I haven’t really enjoyed the heavy, syrupy red wines I’ve tried, nor do I have much experience with anything other than sparkling options.

After some deliberation, she recommended Chardonnay as a good, fruity white wine that might suit my developing palate.

So, after looking in the Chardonnay aisle, I ended up choosing one from Oyster Bay – purely for a personal connection to the growing region.

My maternal grandad grew up in the Marlborough area of New Zealand’s South Island, so Oyster Bay had the right amount of nostalgia for me.

And, at $23, I thought it would be more appropriate for a family dinner than my usual $10 student rosé, but it also wasn’t too out of my price range to buy again in the future if I liked it.

What it tasted like

On my first sip, the thing that stood out was how refreshing it was – perfect for a warm Australian evening around the barbecue.

It tasted really smooth and not heavy, and I could pick out stone fruit flavours as well as lemon too. I really liked how light, summery and fresh it was.

Some other white wines I’ve tried before felt too sharp and acidic (I’m looking at you Sauvignon Blanc!) or very thick, rich and oaky. I found this Chardonnay sat in the middle and made you want to go back for another sip. Which both Mum and I did!

It also seems like a super versatile wine for different foods. I had it with a simple grilled chicken and salad, and it was delicious. But I could easily see myself enjoying it with seafood, or even just a cheese and fruit platter.

To be honest, it would also be perfectly fine on its own if you’re just winding down after a long day at uni.

Overall, this is a solid go-to white wine. It’s fresh, smooth and easy to drink without being boring. I’d happily grab another bottle.

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Much has been discovered and celebrated about Rioja’s wine over the last decade as the region has finally experienced the level of attention it deserves.

Less discussed is how breathtakingly beautiful a travel destination it is – Rioja has a home away from home for you.

You won’t find Rioja in the Thomas Cook package holiday directory, but if you’re a wine lover who also appreciates a great view, you’re certainly heading in the right direction.

From luxurious winery stays in a building designed by legendary architect Frank Gehry to humble B&Bs and even rustic campsites, there really is a way for every type of traveller to experience this iconic wine region.

The backpacker

You’re a bit old to spend your time in hostels now, but you haven’t lost your sense of adventure and desire for a more authentic, rugged experience.

Fortunately for you, Rioja is a vast expanse of rolling hills, windswept vineyards and hiking trails.

Whether you drive here or take some other form of transport from Madrid or Bilbao, there’s no need to spend a fortune to enjoy the region’s great outdoors.

Camping de Haro

Carretera Vieja de Miranda 1, Haro

There’s nothing quite like enjoying the great outdoors, especially in the company of those who want to do the same.

For €30 a night, you can pitch a tent, park a car and have access to electricity, all barely 10 minutes’ walk from Haro. If the sound of rain hitting your tent isn’t your cup of tea, glamping bungalows are also available.

In the summer months, you can cool off after a long day of sightseeing with a swim in the vast outdoor swimming pool.

Typical peak season rates from around €30 a night camping, or €70 a night glamping. campingdeharo.com

• Insider tip Make sure you find the time to visit the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture in nearby Briones, barely 10 minutes’ drive away.

The authentic traveller

You want to get into the heart of the region but you don’t necessarily require luxury or want to spend a lot of time in the hotel itself.

You’ll be visiting wineries during the day and need a base for operations, ideally out in the villages themselves.

Casa Robla

Calle Hornos 11, Elvillar

A charming B&B set in a former winery in the heart of Elvillar, Casa Robla is a quiet place to put your head down at night, with enough of the original exposed stonework to really connect with its productive past.

Better yet, the proprietor makes wine nearby in Lanciego, and recent vintages are readily available to try.

There’s no onsite dining here, but feel free to use the kitchen to whip up some sandwiches or cold snacks.

Typical peak season rates from around €100 per night.

• Insider tip For a more lively night out, head to nearby Laguardia (10-minute drive) for a vibrant social and tapas scene.

The upscale adventurer

Being out in the thick of it is important to you, but you also appreciate your home comforts.

Some days might be spent out exploring, while others will definitely be in the hotel, enjoying the finer things in life.

There’s no need for luxury, but a little space, privacy and understated beauty is appreciated.

Santa María Briones

Calle Concepción 37, Briones

This charming boutique hotel is set in a 16th-century manor house in the heart of one of the region’s most important winemaking villages.

There are only 16 rooms, but each is carefully considered, with exposed stonework, wooden beams and individual views.

There are also two restaurants onsite: El Calado for traditional, rustic dishes and wine tastings in an informal setting, and Allegar for fine dining.

There’s also a gym, a well-appointed library and even local kennels for those travelling with pets.

It’s worth noting that this isn’t a good option for young families, as guests must be 12 years or older.

Typical peak season rates from around €250 per night. santamariabriones.com

• Insider tip The Berones Suite has a duplex layout and grants access to the largest balcony on the property. Alternatively, ask for room 33 – it has the property’s best views!

The luxury traveller

Needless to say, the hotel you choose will make or break your trip.

You may be in Rioja for the wine but that doesn’t mean that you can’t live it up while you’re here, and you’re likely to be spending a lot of time enjoying the facilities when not on the occasional foray into the region.

Fine dining is a must and there also has to be something going on at the hotel beyond the gym.

Marqués de Riscal

Calle Torrea 1, Elciego

An icon of the region for its wines, its history, its legend and its incredible, swooping winery and hotel.

Opened in 2006, this Frank Gehry-designed masterpiece is as eye-catching as it is unique. Multi-coloured ribbons of titanium ripple and twist across its surface, glinting in the sunshine.

For the luxury traveller in Rioja, welcome home!

There are 61 rooms, each with large windows from which to enjoy the view.

Beyond that, there’s a Caudalie Vinotherapy spa, a fitness centre, a swimming pool and no fewer than three restaurants from which to choose.

You’re in the perfect location for day trips, but with so much going on, you may want to spend your time at the hotel instead.

Typical peak season rates from around €450 per night. marquesderiscal.com

• Insider tip Spend your evenings in the rooftop bar for spectacular sunset views. For something really special, ask them to show you their list of back vintages for a bottle to enjoy as the sun goes down.

The city breaker

You’re only here for a few days and you want to be somewhere that offers restaurants, nightlife and transport links.

You may do a day trip but you also want to experience wine bars, wine lists, coffee and conversation.

Your perfect city would, ideally, have a couple of wineries very close by so you can cram everything in and still have the energy to live it up in the evening.

Hotel Arrope

La Vega 31, Haro

In the heart of Haro, Arrope is a small, no-nonsense hotel ideal for a couple of days in the bustling little city. Its terrace is a popular meeting point for locals and tourists alike.

The rooms occupy the top floors above a restaurant known for its comprehensive wine list.

The small, passionate team is always happy to help and offer inside knowledge on where to go and who to meet. And the sommelier will eagerly recommend interesting, beyond-the-obvious bottles.

Typical peak season rates from around €90 per night.

• Insider tip If you’re on a short break, book your visits to the Muga and CVNE wineries before you arrive. Not only are they icons, but they’re located within the city walls, right near the train station – a mere 15 minutes’ walk from the hotel.

The foodie

Someone once told you that the best way to learn about a local culture was to eat the food and drink the wine, and that seemed like a great idea to you.

You’ve been practising just that for years now and you’ve found your place in the world.

It’s imperative to be in local places, eating real local food and enjoying the unique atmosphere that defines each village, town and city.

You’re happy in fine-dining locations as much as the pub down the street, so long as flavour is involved.

Sercotel Calle Mayor

Calle Marqués de San Nicolás 71, Logroño

This four-star boutique hotel is in the very heart of Rioja’s wine capital Logroño, making it a perfect location for those looking to experience not only the wine culture of Rioja, but its famous tapas scene.

It’s a five-minute walk to Calle del Laurel and its famous tapas crawl, yet also surrounded by excellent restaurants; there are few better places to be for those looking to discover the local cuisine.

The hotel itself also has a gym and, importantly for those looking for reservations, a 24-hour front desk and concierge service. ¡Buen provecho!

Typical peak season rates from around €145 per night. sercotelhoteles.com

• Insider tip If you’re looking for a wine experience close by, check out Javier Arizcuren’s urban winery – one of the region’s greatest producers, right in the heart of the city.

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Many wine-producing countries have a grape that has become central to their identity. For South Africa, Chenin Blanc is its signature white variety, and at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), it emerged as one of the shining stars for the rainbow nation.

It was not always this way. Like the country itself, South African Chenin Blanc has been through quite a revolution over the past three decades. Known locally for years as Steen, the grape was treated as a dependable workhorse: high-yielding, hardy and destined mostly for brandy, bulk wine, semi-sweet blends and inexpensive dry whites. South Africa, it turned out, had become the grape's adopted superpower, growing more Chenin Blanc than anywhere else on earth.

There is an irony in that. Chenin Blanc's ancestral home is France's Loire Valley, where it makes some of the world's most ageworthy and revered white wines, from the honeyed sweet wines of Vouvray to the steely dry whites of Savennières. Yet in South Africa, the grape was long valued for what it could produce in volume rather than for what it could express.

That began to change as a new generation of producers looked again at what they had, recognising that these low-yielding old vines, many over 35 years old, were capable of remarkable things. By farming them for quality rather than quantity and working site by site, winemakers began to reveal a grape of real depth and character.

Among those who drove the change is Johan Jordaan, cellar master at Spier, who in February was named Chenin Blanc Master Winemaker for the second consecutive year at the Master Winemaker 100 awards in Paris. For him, the transformation has been a collective effort, grounded in better farming.

Safe to say, Chenin is now entering its heyday. The country enjoyed a banner year at the world's largest wine competition, earning 27 more medals overall than last year. At the top tier, South Africa claimed one Best in Show, eight Platinums and 36 Golds. While red wine led the way at Platinum level, it was Chenin that was crowned with South Africa's sole Best in Show: Stellenbosch Reserve, Hangbrug Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2025.

A regional fingerprint

The judges praised Stellenbosch Reserve's varietal character delivered 'with spotless precision', its 'brightness and freshness', and a restrained use of oak that filled out the palate 'without obscuring that primary charm'. One judge found 'a little salty intrigue' that spoke of site and authenticity.

For the team behind it, that sense of place is the whole point. 'With Stellenbosch Reserve we are looking to make a wine that is true to the varietal and the profile one would expect from a Stellenbosch Chenin,' says commercial director Warren Granat-Mulder.

The aim, he explains, is 'texture and elegance, hence the short stint in the barrel', while keeping the wine 'fruit forward, yet fresh and zesty'. Stellenbosch whites, he adds, tend to sit 'more on the yellow fruit spectrum than perhaps the riper tropical fruit one often gets out of an area like the Swartland'.

That regional fingerprint, the idea that a single grape can taste notably different from one district to the next, was something the judges noticed too, remarking on the 'impressive differentiation of Chenin Blanc wines according to their regional origin' across the South African flight.

The memory bank of Old Vines

Nowhere is that difference clearer than in the Swartland, the warm, dry region north of Cape Town that has become synonymous with old-vine Chenin. The area earned its first Platinums since 2022 this year, one of them for Nederburg, Heritage Heroes The Anchor Man Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Swartland 2024, a wine the judges called 'a classic style, segueing power and freshness seamlessly'.

The secret lies underground. 'Swartland is unique in producing outstanding old-vine Chenin Blanc because of its terroir,' says white wines winemaker Jamie Williams. 'It is dryland farming, so no irrigation occurs. These old vines can root deeply within the decomposed granite and shale soils to search for water, concentrating the fruit in the small berries, which gives lovely mid-palate depth and complexity.' Decades of survival, she believes, are written into the wine:

An all-weather grape

Part of Chenin's appeal in South Africa is its sheer adaptability, a trait that has made it a favourite from everyday quaffers to the country's most ambitious whites. Van Loveren's Survivor Reserve Chenin Blanc, Swartland 2023 took a Gold, and for cellar master Pierre Wahl the variety's resilience is precisely what makes it so valuable in a warming climate.

'I have always regarded Chenin Blanc as the most versatile variety I work with,' he says. 'Its naturally high acidity makes it particularly resilient in the face of climate change, allowing it to retain freshness and balance even at higher levels of ripeness and alcohol.'

That versatility extends to the table, too. Wahl calls Chenin 'one of the world's greatest gastronomic white wines', perfectly suited to the melting-pot of French, Indian, German and Cape Malay influences in South African cooking. Best of all, he offers an image hard to better: 'For me, South African Chenin Blanc is sunshine in a bottle. It captures the generosity of our climate while maintaining a vibrant energy and freshness.'

Championing Chenin

What unites these wines is not just a grape but a change in standing. 'Chenin in South Africa has become a flagbearer for the country and the wines we make can comfortably compete on the international stage,' says Granat-Mulder. He sees the variety's rise continuing, noting that it now commands a respect far more readily given than even a decade ago.

Just as South African wine as a whole has spent the past three decades remaking its place in the world, shedding an old reputation for volume and earning a new one for quality, Chenin has come to embody that journey. It is a grape, and a country, increasingly defined by what it can achieve at the very top.

DWWA 2026: Top-scoring South African Chenin Blancs

Stellenbosch Reserve, Hangbrug Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2025

Best in Show, 97 points
A number of our judges commented on the impressive differentiation of Chenin Blanc wines according to their regional origin in the 2026 DWWA South Africa cohort: the best of all reasons for making the choice of a particular Best In Show wine difficult. This was the bottle that eventually emerged triumphant, admired on multiple fronts. One was the delivery of varietal character with spotless precision, together with splendid brightness and freshness. Its Stellenbosch classicism brought an assured poise as well as charm, with just enough inner austerity to keep the drinker coming back to the glass. The oaking, finally, was much admired here for not obscuring that primary charm, but filling out the mid-palate, adding texture, and providing a faint flavoury undertow of extra richness. There even seemed to be a little salty intrigue to the palate for some judges, enhancing the sense of authenticity and site. Assured work and an encouraging introduction to the exciting South African white-wine scene. Alcohol 13.5%

Nederburg, Heritage Heroes The Anchor Man Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Swartland 2024

Platinum, 97 points
A classic style, segueing power and freshness seamlessly. Ambient riches of orchard fruit, guava and kaffir lime dance over the mineral backbone and enmesh in the lanolin texture and citrus acidity. Very long and herbaceous.
Alc 13.7%

Van Loveren, Survivor Reserve Chenin Blanc, Swartland 2023

Gold, 95 points
Astounding beeswax nose with flinty, fynbos herbs and hints of bitter lemon. Vivacious and breezy, giving lanolin texture and a focused gunpowder tension towards the finish. Alc 14%

Alvi's Drift, Albertus Viljoen Chenin Blanc, Scherpenheuvel, Worcester 2024

Gold, 95 points
Impasto style layers of baked apple, lemon and stone fruit glaze the lanolin complexity, freshened by a zippy tangerine acidity and ginger twist at the end. Alc 13.5%

Perdeberg, The Dry Land Collection Longevity Natural Sweet Chenin Blanc, Paarl 2025

Gold, 95 points
Abundant ramblings of dried pineapple, mango, apricot and honeyed ginger sink into the rich, sumptuous palate, deftly countered by bright, cleansing acidity that lifts the finish. Alc 9.5%

Discover all winners at awards.decanter.com

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Many wineries have solar panels to offset some of their energy needs – but are still reliant on the grid. But how realistic is it for wineries to be completely off-grid, running their operations entirely on self-generated green energy?

It depends on many factors, including scale of production, but certainly helps if one of the business partners spent 20 years working in the renewable energy sector.

Gearóid Lane is a founding partner of Gredos producer Bodega El Reventón, alongside Catena Zapata’s Adrianna Catena and Argentinian winemaker Alejandro Vigil.

Lane is a mechanical engineer by training, and the former managing director of the British Gas sustainable energy division. In 2021, the three equal partners bought La Reina, a 6.2ha vineyard at 820m-860m in the Sierra de Gredos mountains in central Spain.

When they came to convert a derelict barn on the land into a working winery, they faced a problem. ‘The nearest three-phase grid was so far away, it would have cost us a lot to get a grid connection,’ says Lane – around €500,000, in fact. So they didn’t. Instead, Lane sat down with his spreadsheets.

Lane had been at the heart of the UK’s green energy transition while at British Gas. He left to set up his own business facilitating the roll-out of government-mandated home energy efficiency programs in low-income households, including community solar projects.

A lifelong wine lover, when he came to sell this business he decided to put his energy into the wine world. A chance meeting with Adrianna on a WSET course was the project’s spark.

He’s no sideline investor, though; Lane is fully immersed in the project, learning winemaking directly from Vigil and the Catena Zapata team, and doing harvests in both Mendoza and Gredos.

He slowly built up an understanding of the Gredos winery’s energy needs throughout the year. The most energy-intensive period is harvest: the destemmer, pneumatic press, pumps and pressure washers all need power.

Temperature management is also key: cooling tanks at the start of harvest to help with smooth fermentations, and gently warming them at the end of harvest as nights turn cold and fermentations risk getting stuck.

It turned out that twenty-four 550-watt solar panels mounted on the south-facing barn roof could supply what they needed, plus three battery units for energy storage. And it would cost €40,000, instead of half a million.

The sustainable choice and the financially rational choice were the same – for once.

They found that they could also be self-sufficient in water. Two wells, replenished by winter rainfall, supply their needs for cleaning and production (not irrigation – the vines are dry famed).

It didn’t all go smoothly. The power surge needed to start the heating and cooling system couldn’t be met by the solar supply. A fix was found – another €3,000.

One issue remains: the pressure washer still occasionally overtaxes the supply, and a small petrol generator had to be used during the last harvest. But 10 additional solar panels, planned for the roof of a building conversion currently awaiting permission, should solve it.

This is all happening in a region that barely existed on the wine map just 20 years ago.

Dani Landi and Fernando Garcia of Comando G built a movement here. They created a community, and are now nurturing and inspiring a new generation of growers to show the world what Gredos tastes like.

And now it has attracted interest and investment from far beyond Spain: it was Landi who sold the El Reventón vineyard to the trio, which they bought after La Reina, and which gave the project its name.

Gredos was built on the belief that this land, which was gradually being abandoned, was worth fighting for. Arguably, the El Reventón project, and its focus on self-sufficiency, is a vote of confidence, and reflects the values that made the region worth coming to in the first place.

Sip to make a difference

From a 1ha vineyard planted in the 1940s on slate and quartz soils at 950m, Bodega El Reventón’s El Reventón 2023 (91pts, £69.95 Uncorked) is generous and giving, with gorgeous aromatics of dried cranberry and black cherry.

Soft and delicate in texture, with deep-set acidity, very ripe fruit and spice. A little way to go before reaching the heights of Gredos finesse, but it’ll get there.

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Auction bidders vied for a piece of American history as Christie's hosted an online auction in Los Angeles featuring lots from Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, one of the California wineries that shot to fame in the the Judgement of Paris tasting 50 years ago.

A bottle of Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon 'SLV' 1973 sold for $22,500 (£16,724), including buyer's premium, far outpacing a pre-sale high estimate of $6,000.

Christie's said that's a record price for the 1973 vintage of this Napa Valley wine, famous for outshining top red Bordeaux in the 1976 tasting organised by Steven Spurrier and Patricia Gallagher.

Results helped to put California on the world wine map after a first report by George Taber in Time magazine, under the Judgement of Paris headline.

'We were delighted with today’s world record price for one of America’s truly historic wines,' said Chris Munro, Christie's head of wine, Americas, after the auction finished on 15 July.

Among other lots in the auction, 12 bottles of the Cabernet Sauvignon SLV 1974 sold for $13,750 (high estimate: $5,000). A nine-litre 'Salmanazar' bottle of the 2023 vintage, along with a private tasting, tour and dinner, fetched $4,000 (e: $4,000 – $5,000).

Objects that 'made America'

Following this year’s anniversary celebrations, there will be 19 bottles of the Cabernet Sauvignon SLV 1973 left at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, said a Christie’s spokesperson.

One bottle is preserved in the Smithsonian collection of American historical artefacts – donated by the late winemaker Warren Winiarski, alongside another of California's famous Judgement wines: Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay.

In 2013, Smithsonian named this duo among the ‘101 objects that made America’.

Juan Muñoz-Oca, estates director at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, said the recent Christie's auction result is 'a powerful testament to the enduring legacy of the 1973 SLV Cabernet Sauvignon and the vision of our founder, Warren Winiarski'.

Judgement wines surface for 50th anniversary

This year's 50th anniversary of the Judgement tasting has put a new spotlight on the wines involved.

A joint-lot offered by Montelena and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars at this year’s Auction Napa Valley charity event on 6 June featured one bottle each of the wineries' 1973 'Judgement' vintage.

The lot, which also included other wines, estate visits, a bespoke winemaking experience and one-year winery club memberships, sold for $110,000, said charity auction cohost Sotheby’s.

Looking further back, in March 2022, Heritage Auctions sold a bottle of the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon SLV 1973 for $12,300 – a record auction price for the wine at the time.

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Steph di Camillo, owner of Wine & Such wine shop in Blackheath, London, was awarded the Sustainable Drinks Buyer of the Year gong at the London Wine Fair (LWF) 2026, which took place the end of May.

Winning the Sustainable Wine Buyer category was 'a real surprise and a huge honour', Di Camillo told Decanter.

'As a small, independent shop with just one full-time employee (me), it’s easy to assume these awards are out of reach. But sustainable wine has shaped Wine & Such from the very beginning, so to have that recognised by our peers means a great deal. It’s a lovely reminder that small local shops can still play a part in pushing the conversation forward,' she said.

The judging panel – made up of sustainability consultant Anne Jones, writer and competition director Chris Losh, and myself, Natalie Earl, Decanter’s sustainability editor – found that Di Camillo’s entry was informed, honest and backed up pertinent facts and examples. It was evident that sustainability was not only at the core of the sourcing model, but also integral to how the shop runs day-to-day.

‘Di Camillo's submission was especially compelling because sustainability was threaded through her whole ethos as a buyer,’ said Jones, ‘Rather than focusing on a single initiative, she demonstrated a consistent approach that influenced the way she selected wines, worked with producers and developed her range.’

Losh said that overall the best entries showed how sustainability 'was something that ran through every element of the decision making, like the wording in a stick of rock,’ and not simply ‘recycling a few corks’.

A second award is also given to the Sustainable Drinks Buying Team of the Year, which was picked up by Majestic this year.

Although it was clear during the judging process that many buyers do see sustainability as a core part of their role, Losh said that there was 'a sizable proportion of entrants' to the competition who didn’t fill in the section on sustainability at all.

'Presumably either because they don’t see it as important, or because they recognise that their business isn’t doing much in this area. That’s both surprising and disappointing,’ he said.

The Wine Buyers Awards was launched in 2020, and the Sustainable Wine Buyer category was introduced in 2025.

The awards aim to acknowledge the influence that wine buyers have on creating trends, offering value, quality and innovation across their ranges.

It recognises those that are embedding sustainability into the heart of their business, but it has also highlighted that the industry still has some way to go in this respect.

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The cool breath of February blows gently, swaying the Spanish moss draped across the arms of a live oak.

A small group has gathered at the Green-Meldrim House, a historic home in Savannah, Georgia.

Gas lanterns cast a warm glow across the threshold as we step inside the 1853 gothic revival style manor for an after-hours tour called Potable Gold.

The docent, an affable yet studious man in his mid-60s, hands us each a glass of cut crystal filled with liquid the hue of the afternoon sun. We take a sip of ambrosia, then follow him into the parlour to hear about Madeira parties in the southern states.

Madeira held a special position in the social lives of early Americans, the docent says as we take seats around a mahogany table. He offers a second pour of wine.

Candlelight flickers as we imagine men in similar rooms across the East Coast drinking the afternoon away.

The drink of a future President

For nearly 200 years, Madeira reigned as the favoured drink of the political elite. Perhaps no one embodied that national devotion more than George Washington.

Though 18th-century invoices rarely listed grape names, Washington was clear about what wine he liked.

In a 1763 letter to his island suppliers, Washington requested ‘a rich oily wine,’ which could only come from the inclusion of Malmsey (Malvasia).

Correspondence and ledgers, shared publicly on the National Archives’ Founders Online, detail Washington’s regular purchases.

An account of expenses as the Commander-in-Chief of the Continental Army logs his purchase of 108 bottles of Madeira on a single day in October 1775. Washington prosecuted a revolution without letting his supply run dry.

If Madeira could win a war, it would be the toast of victory. Every Founder filled a cup to celebrate the adoption of the Declaration of Independence on 4 July, 1776.

How Madeira became America’s wine

Madeira’s grip on America began with the island’s geography and a quirk of British law. Sitting at the nexus of the Atlantic trade winds, Madeira offered a logical provisioning stop for merchant ships headed west for the Indies and New World.

The island’s producers loaded pipes of Madeira into ship holds as ballast. Long voyages through the tropics left an unusual imprint. Heat, oxygen, and the constant rocking of the ship ‘cooked’ the wine into a new oxidised style that Americans soon loved.

A second economic advantage came from the British Parliament. Dating to the 1660s, the Navigation Acts required European goods bound for American colonies to pass through British ports on British ships.

Madeira, whether an oversight or not, eluded the provision by virtue of location. The exemption allowed Madeira to flow freely to the colonies. Bartholomew Broadbent, of the import company Broadbent Selections, believes it may have been ‘America’s first tax loophole'.

Exuberance for Madeira stretched up and down the eastern seaboard. However, the ‘south had a unique love affair with the wine,’ writes Emanuel Berk of the Rare Wine Co. Berk ranks among the foremost authorities on Madeira, having spent decades documenting its American history.

North-South divide

‘The Southern elite’s leisurely way of life allowed for liberal indulgence,’ he writes in his booklet Antebellum Nectar.

Charleston, the wealthiest city in the colonies, was thought to possess the only ‘true leisure-class society,’ admired by 18th- and 19th-century Northerners who welcomed invitations to festive repasts.

Such affairs started mid-afternoon and lasted through the evening, as hosts showed off their collections as both social currency and lubrication.

Curiously, tastes in Madeira differed between the south and the north. Casks rarely bore the name of the producer, and final style decisions fell to the buyer.

Collectors in the Northeast transferred their wine from cask to glass demijohn for extended ageing, while Southerners bottled directly from cask within a year or two of receipt, explains Berk.

The low country Carolina taste for lighter, drier wines, against the sweeter palate of the North, bred a snobbish conviction that ‘the Yankees never understood the wine,’ says Berk.

Madeira on the decline

The Madeira of the early republic bears little resemblance to the wine today. Before the 1850s, producers shipped Madeira within two or three years of the vintage.

The wine had a paler hue and tasted ‘dry and incredibly vibrant,’ says Berk.

Two crises would change that. In 1851 the powdery mildew oidium struck island vineyards, cutting production by 80%. Phylloxera followed in 1872, crippling growers for two decades.

As harvests shrank, producers held the wine in barrels. The longer time in wood gave Madeira a dark colour and nutty, caramel depth.

‘Post-Oidium, Madeira just fundamentally changed,’ says Berk. ‘It became this much more powerful, concentrated wine.’

Concurrently, the American market faded. Champagne, especially popular in Charleston, became the wine of celebration.

Then the Civil War erased the Southern market overnight. Cocktail culture poached some remaining enthusiasts before Prohibition shut the door.

By the 1920s, a wine that had defined American taste had all but vanished.

A modern revival

In 1989, Broadbent set out to reintroduce Madeira to America. Before his San Francisco tasting, few restaurants in the country served it, among them Bern’s in Tampa, known for its legendary cellar.

He poured 19 wines going back to 1845. ‘Despite a very jaded wine trade, we had a massive turn out of about 300 people,’ he says. Within a week, city restaurants sought Madeira for their wine lists.

He dealt in old vintages, including an 1845 Cossart Gordon he sold for around $60 a bottle. ‘I actually got criticised for doing my job too well,’ he says, after selling 100 cases to one buyer. That wine now fetches about $3,000/bottle.

Given the wine’s prominent position in early America, how did the country forget that connection?

Broadbent put the question to a guest in one of his seminars, a schoolteacher who offered an answer. American textbooks, she said, stripped every reference to alcohol. The Founders’ wine had been edited out of national memory.

Around the same time, Berk started Rare Wine Co. after he chanced upon hundreds of cases of 19th-century Madeira from a London merchant unloading them at a deep discount.

As he sold through that stock, he conceived of a new project. He partnered with Ricardo Freitas of Barbeito to develop the Historic Series, paying homage to the regional palates of the past, from the driest Charleston Sercial to the sweetest New York Malmsey.

Despite interest, Madeira remains far from enjoying a market comeback. While Broadbent sees the 250th story circulating, he credits tourism as a significant driver of interest.

‘Portugal has become a major tourist destination. Madeira is already swamped with tourists but within maybe four years it will be as packed as the Amalfi Coast.

'Fifteen years ago, I received maybe two people a year telling me they wanted to go to Madeira. Today I am contacted at least once a week,’ says Broadbent.

A visit to the source

While both importers sell older vintages, drinkers chasing a taste of history will find the island itself the richest ground.

Pereira D’Oliveira in Funchal, imported by Rare Wine Co., has aged wines in cask since 1850. The tasting room display of 19th-century selections provides eye candy for giddy oenophiles.

At Blandy’s, where the family’s wine lodge dates to 1824, guests can visit the museum before tasting vintages dating back to 1920.

‘It’s amazing to think how over 200 years ago, they were making wines with much more limited resources, but are also so legendary,’ says Chris Blandy, Chairman of Blandy’s Madeira.

Freitas, however, may be the island’s most forward-looking producer precisely because he looks to the past. He makes drier, more delicate wines, closer to what crossed the Atlantic in pipes than to wines made in the 20th century.

This year, Rare Wine Co. released its Declaration of Independence Madeira to mark the 250th anniversary of that seminal American moment.

Blended to reflect historical tastes, it's a wine that might have fuelled a long afternoon in a Lowcountry parlour – or an American revolution.

Madeira and America: a shared history in 10 wines

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Melania Battison, Andrea Briccarello and Bruno Besa tasted 61 wines with 3 Outstanding and 25 Highly recommended.

North Italian Pinot Grigio: Panel tasting scores

61 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 25

Recommended 30

Commended 3

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their Pinot Grigio wines, from any vintage, from a northern Italian region: Aosta, Emilia Romagna, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Liguria, Lombardy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Piedmont or Veneto.

Quality and diversity

Tasting 61 Pinot Grigios might sound like a dream to some, or a slow-burning endurance test to others. I’ll admit I approached it with cautious optimism.

And sure enough, somewhere between glass number 15 and 40, I was reminded why this grape deserves far more credit than it often gets.

Having spent time in Friuli Venezia Giulia, in Italy’s northeast, I’ve seen first-hand what Pinot Grigio can achieve when it’s taken seriously – and how frustrating it is that so much of the good stuff rarely travels beyond Italian borders.

The denomination is evolving rapidly, not just in volume but in quality and demand.

Three key regions in northern Italy were represented in this tasting, each with distinct traits that genuinely help consumers navigate the category, whether browsing a wine list or standing indecisively in a supermarket aisle.

Friuli Venezia Giulia, in particular, refused to be boxed in. As Bruno Besa neatly put it: ‘There isn’t a common denominator here.’ Quite right.

'There is a style for everyone’

The range moved from bright, youthful examples to bottle-aged wines and traditional yet adventurous, copper-hued ramato styles – a result of the natural greyish-pink pigments in the grape’s skins, which will colour the wine if extended maceration is allowed.

Represented in four of the top six wines, ramato stole the show: textured and characterful, they’re proof that Pinot Grigio has a backbone and personality.

Yet across all styles, elegance was the unifying thread in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region.

Veneto, meanwhile, reminded us why Pinot Grigio conquered the market in the first place. The quality-to-price ratio remains unbeatable. These wines were defined by freshness, energy and accessibility – less contemplative perhaps, but joyfully drinkable.

Alto Adige (Südtirol) felt shaped by its alpine climate, delivering precision and consistency: zesty acidity, citrus clarity and subtle texture, thanks in part to the grapes’ thicker skins and the cooler nights.

As Andrea Briccarello concluded: ‘There is a style for everyone.’

After 61 glasses, I can agree and confirm that Pinot Grigio’s greatest strength is versatility without pomposity.

See all notes and scores from the north Italian Pinot Grigio tasting

The judges

North Italian Pinot Grigio panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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For New Zealand’s aromatic whites ‘small but mighty’ could become the catchphrase – excluding Sauvignon Blanc, which obviously needs no introduction.

Making up just a tiny fraction of New Zealand’s total production, and often representing a labour of love for those who champion them, these aromatic varieties are nevertheless behind some of the country’s most thrilling and distinctive white wines.

Collectively, they make up less than 8% of New Zealand’s total planted area (including reds), bolstered considerably by the rise of Pinot Gris, whose plantings are nearly five times that of Riesling (see box), which in turn dwarfs Gewurztraminer. Albariño, generating real excitement in recent years, still boasts just 65ha, while semi-aromatic Chenin Blanc has dwindled to a mere 22ha, albeit in dedicated hands.

There aren’t a lot of these wines around, but they offer exceptional quality and remarkable value for drinkers willing to seek them out.

Paul Pujol, winemaker and general manager at Prophet’s Rock in Central Otago – and formerly the winemaker at Alsace’s Kuentz-Bas, the first non-family member to hold the position in the domaine’s 200-year history – is a passionate producer of Pinot Gris and Riesling (alongside a soon-to-be-released four-variety blend including Gewurztraminer and Muscat).

‘Outside Europe, there aren’t many places you can achieve the vibrancy, purity, intensity and freshness, and the true cool-climate expression of aromatic whites that we get in New Zealand,’ he says.

He feels that the varieties have been overshadowed by Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.

Perfect conditions

The quality and distinctiveness of these varieties stem from New Zealand’s southerly, largely maritime-influenced growing conditions.

These create long, cool, generally sunny seasons, often combined with significant diurnal temperature shifts, that intensify varietal expression while enabling a wide range of styles, from bone dry to botrytis-affected.

Most wines are made with at least a few grams of residual sugar, offset by vibrant natural acidity that gives the best examples appealingly clean finishes.

Winemaking is largely centred around the use of stainless steel containers to preserve fruit purity, though producers are increasingly turning to older oak, concrete and clay amphorae, with ageing on the fine lees adding texture and complexity.

At Framingham in Marlborough – renowned for producing half a dozen (or more) Riesling styles each season – winemaker Andrew Brown notes that the commercial realities remain challenging.

These wines largely depend on cellar door and retailer hand-selling to find their audience.

‘We are passionate about making the best examples of Riesling we can; the scope may be restricted if we didn’t have the cellar door as a sales channel,’ he says.

But he sees heads increasingly turning.

‘There are some really great examples coming out of NZ at the moment – more textural, restrained and ageworthy.’

Anna Flowerday (pictured, above) of Te Whare Ra, whose Riesling and Gewurztraminer vines are among Marlborough’s oldest, puts it simply: ‘We truly believe that aromatic whites are the unsung heroes. Overseas visitors are constantly blown away by the quality.’

New Zealand's finest non-Sauvignon aromatics

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High up on the Col de Durbize, near the top of the Chiroubles appellation in Beaujolais, the view is breathtaking.

Due south, across a rippling wave of vineyard-covered hills, the mounded form of the Côte de Brouilly towers over the landscape. Beyond it, a flat plain spills away towards the Saône river.

On a cloudless day you can often catch a glimpse of Mont Blanc in the far distance, its snow-capped shoulders marking the highest point of the Alps.

The sloping vineyards to the north of the col are punctuated by copses of trees and sunshine-yellow gorse bushes.

Even though you’re less than 3km from the village, it’s peaceful up here, the silence interrupted only by the loud song of blackbirds and the occasional quiet hum of a peloton of cyclists whooshing by.

It’s not just the view that takes your breath away. Even on a sunny spring day, you can feel the wind that blows over the col.

Its name, Durbize, is a portmanteau of bize, the moniker used in the Alps for a cold, dry mountain wind, and dur (meaning ‘hard’), a reference to just how biting that wind can feel when it really gets going.

The bize is often keenly felt by the producers working the steep vineyards that spread out over the slopes beneath and behind the col.

It’s worth bearing in mind that although the Col de Durbize, perched at 500m above sea level, is one of the highest points in the region, some of the Chiroubles vineyards are situated even higher.

Work your heart out

Furthermore, not only is Chiroubles the highest of the 10 crus of Beaujolais – its highest-quality sub-regions – it also features the region’s most vertiginous slopes.

Toiling up and down the sharp inclines in this hilly cru is not for the faint of heart or the weak of limb.

The growers’ task is made even harder by the nature of the vines they’re tending. The vineyards of Beaujolais’ crus are largely populated by ancient bush vines, almost entirely Gamay, many of them so low to the ground that they look like bonsai versions of the more vigorous plants seen elsewhere.

Bending and kneeling to prune these vines, and to harvest the low-hanging bunches, takes a physical toll on Chiroubles’ growers over time.

‘I love being up there in my vineyards. I love the landscape, and the feeling that I’m surrounded by nature, and I love the views,’ says Domaine de la Grosse Pierre’s Pauline Passot.

Then she sighs. ‘It’s incredibly hard work and I have to work my heart out. The vineyards are so steep they just can’t be mechanised – everything has to be done by hand.’

But although those steep slopes, buffeting winds and old vines may be a tribulation for grape-growers, they are a distinct advantage in the context of climate change.

While the Chiroubles cru may have struggled to ripen its grapes in past years, when chaptalisation (adding sugar to the fermenting must to increase potential alcohol) was the norm in the region, the freshness derived from elevation and wind is now a positive blessing in a changing climate, when those tending vines grown in riper sites sometimes struggle to keep alcohol levels under control.

Rocky descent

The final piece in the puzzle of the distinctive terroir of Chiroubles is geology. It’s the only one of the 10 crus to be composed exclusively of the pink granite soils for which the region is renowned.

Even Fleurie, the cru most strongly associated with pink granite in most people’s minds, has a fan of alluvial soils situated in the southeast of the appellation.

In some parts of the Chiroubles appellation, geology and topography combine to create incredibly shallow soils in which the bedrock lies exposed, while elsewhere these rocks have decomposed to create relatively deep, free-draining granitic sands.

It’s this combination of elevation, cooling influences and granite soils that gives the wines of Chiroubles a unique tension and energy, while vine age (many of these plants are well over 80 years old) lends concentration and focus.

Chiroubles is typically fine-boned and perfumed: the Beaujolais equivalent, perhaps, of Volnay or Chambolle-Musigny.

Unfortunately for the region’s growers, however, Chiroubles doesn’t command anywhere near the price of the wines of the Côte d’Or, despite their stylistic similarities.

As a result, it’s perhaps unsurprising that over the course of the two years I spent researching my book The Wines of Beaujolais (£35 Académie du Vin Library, September 2025), Chiroubles lost nearly 15% of its vineyard area – and a recent trip to the region suggests that a further 5%-10% of vineyards have been abandoned in the past 12 months.

All this in a cru that is already the second smallest of the 10 in terms of area.

Commercial realities

‘Lost’ is a euphemism in this particular context. What typically happens is that, when a grower retires, he struggles to find anyone to take over his vineyards. These are then left to lie fallow, the grasses growing wild between the tightly spaced vines.

For many growers, farming a hectare or two of Chiroubles is, it would appear, far more trouble than it’s worth.

As Passot points out: ‘Very few people want to take on these difficult vineyards, especially when it’s hard to make a return on the investment in the time and money it takes to farm them.’

She’s not wrong. A quick back-of-an-envelope calculation suggests that the steepest hillside vineyards in Beaujolais cost two or three times more to farm than those that lie on flatter land – possibly even more if you farm organically, as many of the best producers do.

The story of Jules Métras’ La Montagne, one of the finest wines made in Chiroubles, is a perfect illustration of the potential loss to the wine world.

The 2024 vintage of this wine – and of its stablemate, the Vieilles Vignes Chiroubles – is the last Métras will ever bottle.

When I visited him last year, he told me he was giving up his long-term lease on the vineyards with great regret, but with a pragmatic eye on both the commercial realities of the situation and his own physical limitations.

Métras’ father Yvon, one of the pioneers of the natural wine movement in Beaujolais, has recently retired from the viticultural fray, handing over the management of his Fleurie vineyards to his son.

Métras, having decided that he wanted to keep his production on a small enough scale to enable him to operate as a one-man band, was faced with a decision about whether to keep his father’s vineyards or the ones he’d been farming under his own label.

Ultimately, much as he felt an affinity for his plots in Chiroubles, Métras’ calculation was driven by the pragmatics.

‘It’s just far easier to sell Fleurie than it is to sell Chiroubles,’ he shrugged, adding that another factor that influenced him was having watched some of his relatives farm Chiroubles’ sloping vineyards until they reached their 60s.

‘All those years of climbing up and down those hills, tending those low-lying vines, simply wore them out,’ he told me.

And there’s a further issue that makes Chiroubles a challenge for any producer. The hailstorms that sweep through the region with increasing frequency seem to strike the cru with both monotonous regularity and devastating consequences.

Most of the growers in Chiroubles tell me that they count on losing a significant proportion of their crop at least one year in three.

Sometimes, when the hailstorms roll through, they’ll escape with relatively minor damage, but in the worst-case scenarios, 70% or 80% of a vineyard’s potential harvest can be lost in the space of half an hour or so.

For the love of it

And yet this troublesome, capricious cru has a way of working its way into the hearts and souls of those who take the trouble to get to know it.

‘The people who farm these vineyards are doing it for love,’ says Michele Smith of Domaine Chapel, who farms 3ha of vineyards spread across three of Chiroubles’ lieux-dits (‘named locations’).

‘They’re doing it because they believe in the cru. I think that eventually this will resonate with people. Chiroubles deserves the same amount of respect as the more prestigious appellations – maybe even more because of the challenges that it brings. These wines just have the most amazing energy and vibrancy.’

But if the wines of Chiroubles are so good, why are they so difficult to sell?

One of the cru’s greatest problems is that, unlike the larger, more famous crus of Morgon and Fleurie, Chiroubles doesn’t have a big winemaking name – either in its past or in its present – to drive its image.

Most of the grapes grown in the cru have been absorbed into big (and often rather bland) négociant blends, humdrum wines that aren’t likely to attract discerning palates or turn collectors’ heads.

Nevertheless, the wines recommended below are evidence that great winemakers – if not famous ones – are prepared to carry a torch for Chiroubles.

Another issue that may play its part in Chiroubles’ travails is that the distinctive identity of each of the 10 Beaujolais crus isn’t yet widely recognised.

One importer told me, off the record, that the typical response from retailers and restaurants (ones that happily list a couple of dozen wines from Burgundy or a generous handful of Piedmontese Nebbiolos) is: ‘Thanks, but we already have a Beaujolais’.

Given that, for an outlet that believes that listing Beaujolais is a box-ticking exercise, the first cab off the rank is usually either a Morgon or a Fleurie (or possibly a Moulin-à-Vent if they’re feeling really adventurous), poor little Chiroubles rarely gets a look in.

The exhortation to ‘use it or lose it’ is a familiar one to any gym-goer over the age of 40, but it’s less frequently heard in the context of wine.

Nevertheless, the clock is ticking for Chiroubles. It’s time we all realised that the hills of Beaujolais conceal a hidden treasure.

If we don’t, there’s a risk that this particular pot of elegant, perfumed vinous gold will disappear from our lives forever.

Gamay at the extreme: Natasha’s pick of 10 Chiroubles to try

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Walk into most wine bars and order a sweet wine from Rioja and your server will look at you like you have two heads.

If, however, you happen to be in one of the few establishments with access to the wines of Bodega Ojuel, you may be met with a knowing smile and a nod, and be on your way to tasting a part of Rioja’s history that was once given up as lost.

Miguel Martínez didn’t mean to recover supurao, Rioja’s ancestral sweet wine, or even to become a winemaker. The way he explains it, he just sort of fell into it.

During his early 20s, he got a job in his grandparents’ village in the Sierra de Moncalvillo mountains restoring neveras – structures built to store snow that was later taken down to the cities to preserve food.

Older people would visit to see what the workers were doing, he explains, and tell stories about how they used to live.

One story that stayed with Martínez was how people would bring grapes home to eat during the winter.

When the grapes turned into raisins, instead of discarding them, locals would press them and make a sweet wine that they drank on special occasions such as weddings and baptisms.

It was known by different names, but the most common was supurao.

Something special

When Martínez asked his wine-loving friends about supurao, none had heard of it.

‘No one was making it any more,’ he says. ‘The only people who remembered it were very old, because it went back to their grandparents’ or great-grandparents’ time and had been lost a long time ago.’

Listening to their stories gave him his first inkling that supurao was something special.

When the old people talked about it, they would smile, he recalls. ‘And you know, with that generation, they didn’t always smile,’ he says. ‘But you’d ask them about the wine and they’d remember the special times in their lives.’

Martínez decided the wine needed to be brought back – not with any intention of selling it, he explains, but ‘just out of curiosity, to recover it’.

To source the grapes he would need, he turned to his grandparents’ old Garnacha and Tempranillo vineyards.

After painstakingly restoring them, he found and rebuilt an old, run-down barn in which to hang his grapes through the winter until they turned into raisins.

‘Then came the question: What do I do now?’ he recalls.

Pressing raisined grapes is incredibly difficult, requiring small presses with lots of force to extract tiny amounts of liquid. In the end, he achieved good results by using traditional olive oil presses.

There was just one more problem: he knew nothing about winemaking.

After a process of trial and error, Martínez made one small, 125-litre barrel, or about 300 half-bottles,

in 2009. He began selling his supurao locally, at village markets, where he was amazed by the reception among older people, who would taste it and share their own experiences with sweet wine.

At one such fair, an elderly woman told him she still had a bottle of supurao her father gave her on her wedding day. ‘I went to her apartment, and her grandson opened the door,’ Martínez recalls.

‘I started telling him what I’d come to see and he said, “Oh, yeah, that old thing.” And I said to myself, how things have changed, right?’ The bottle was from the 1970s. It had been opened and was partially oxidised, but it was still perfectly drinkable decades later.

‘That’s when everything started to make sense,’ Martínez says. ‘This wine had real historical importance.'

Attracting attention

Singlehandedly reviving a lost winemaking style didn’t go unnoticed, and over time, what he was doing started to attract attention.

Sommeliers, producers, famous winemakers and people connected to top restaurants began to visit. From there, his life changed.

‘Visitors would ask, “Don’t you make red or white wine?” So I started working more of those old vineyard plots and producing other wines,’ he says.

Now, he makes about 15,000 bottles a year, 3,000 of which are half-bottles of supurao.

In a region with access to vast quantities of wine from large, established wineries, Martínez’s fight to recover supurao is a way of bringing Rioja back to something that he says is ‘very much a grower’s wine, made by the person who owned the vineyards’. At the end of the day, ‘it was about caring about this wine again’.

Without realising it, the young man who fell into winemaking has helped bring a forgotten tradition back to life and shifted the way Rioja understands its past.

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The story of Clos Cibonne represents not just the history of coastal Provence, but also of one family's stubborn belief in their traditions.

It has resulted in one of Provence's most iconic cult wines, often regarded by other Provence winemakers as not being Provence-like because of its atypical style.

Over 200 years of history

The estate traces its origins back to the late 18th century, when naval captain Jean-Baptiste de Cibon, based in nearby Toulon, built a hilltop bastide (a type of fortified manor) with a direct view of the sea, and called it Château Cibon.

Upon Cibon’s death in 1797, the property, a symbol of elite ownership, was taken over by France’s new Republic after the French Revolution, divided into small lots and sold to the general public.

A portion was sold to the Roux family, although not the Château Cibon bastide.

Provence's fortunes grow

The 19th century saw the development of the coastal industry. In 1857 the Cap Garonne sandstone quarry was opened on the hill just to the south of Cibon.

Copper and lead were discovered in 1862, and by the 1890s the copper was being used for Bordeaux mixture – a fungicide used on grapevines to prevent downy mildew.

The advent of the railway from 1859 revolutionised Provence, opening up the region to trade and to tourists seeking the summer sun.

The Roux family profited from this prosperity, planting citrus groves, vineyards and other horticulture to supply tourists and hotels.

Following the devastation of phylloxera in the 1880s, many vineyards were re-planted with high-yielding varieties, and Tibouren, Provence’s only indigenous variety, was abandoned.

Tibouren’s susceptibility to powdery mildew, uneven ripening and oxidative characters made it unpopular, endearing it only to those who loved its rich apricot flavours.

Early rebels, the Roux family was one of the few to replant the grape.

Part of the landscape

By the 1930s, Marius Roux (1875-1958) had developed the estate’s wine production. He bought large 5,000-litre beer barrels from southern Germany and, like the Otts at nearby Clos Mireille, started to sell his wine in bottles.

The current label design dates from this era.

Marius was followed by his son André (1905-1989), who changed the name from Château Cibon to Clos Cibonne.

André was active in getting Clos Cibonne recognised as a cru classé in 1955. The key requirements were that the wine was sold in bottle and could prove its ageing potential.

By the time the appellation rules were being written up in the 1970s, they had a clear precedent allowing them to continue selling their wines with Tibouren on the label – no other Côtes de Provence wines are permitted to label their wine varietally.

Following André's death in 1989, his daughter Jacqueline took over the estate with her husband, Emile Mourchou.

Emile restructured the estate by buying land, replanting Tibouren and developing a new cellar, choosing to retain some of the 5,000-litre foudres.

Their daughter Brigitte and husband Claude Desforges took over the estate in 2003, bringing the cellar up to date with modern technology.

Clos Cibonne catches the attention of sommeliers

It was around this time that local sommeliers were increasingly talking about Clos Cibonne’s exceptional wines.

Faced with the growth in popularity and fame for Provence rosé, there was considerable pressure on the family to change from their traditional dark glass bottles to a clear glass bottle, and to adapt to a modern image of pale, fresh Provence rosé.

Instead, they resisted this pressure, and the wines have retained their unique rich and concentrated style, and are still bottled in dark glass.

Clos Cibonne today

Some of the wines go through malolactic fermentation, and some develop a layer of flor while in foudres, although any oxidative flor character is barely noticeable.

As Claude acknowledges, their aim is to make good wine, not just rosé.

Claude continued to buy adjacent parcels that once made up the original Château Cibon property, bringing the estate to its current size of 24ha – except the original bastide, which still has numerous owners.

Although close to the sea, the vineyards nestle behind a range of low, coastal hills (on the other side of the hills lies the coastal region of La Londe).

The vineyards are located on the Colle Noire massif, and erosion has given rise to a mix of soil types.

Tibouren has different flavour profiles depending on its location and soil type: high up, the schist gives spicy flavours; in the middle there is clay-limestone and loam, with the more silty soils giving citrus freshness.

The warmer, sandier soils on the lower slopes are used for red wine.

The surrounding flat land is criss-crossed with drainage channels, lined with canes and reeds, and has a high water table – a problem for mildew-susceptible Tibouren.

Nevertheless, Cibonne has been cultivated organically since 2012, and certified since 2020.

Tibouren buds early, but luckily spring frosts are not a problem, and it achieves good sugar levels, even when one of the first grapes to be harvested.

The combination of ripe fruit and oak gives the wines great concentration.

Defiant wines

Clos Cibonne remains a family-owned domaine, increasingly rare in Provence, and Claude’s son Olivier is currently taking over.

He says he has no intention of changing the style of the wines. He also aims to continue the tradition of making special cuvées to honour family members: cuvées Caroline (his sister), Olivier, Marius, as well as new cuvées to mark the birth of Olivier’s children: Simon (born in 2023) and Valentin (born in 2019).

The rosés remain the standout wines in the range. Their ageing potential means they can be cellared and can accompany complex food pairings.

The wines may be idiosyncratic, not always perfect, defy market trends, and show more vintage variation than most rosés, but they definitely stand out from the crowd.

Clos Cibonne through time

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It's the hope that kills you. Every time.

French and English hopes dashed and broken after two confounding, astounding and upending semi-finals.

Flashy France disarmed and despatched by a clinical Spain. Dogged England discouraged and diminished by a no-holds-barred Argentina.

While France and England will face off for the third-place match on Saturday we've decided not to give wine pairings for what is a rather flat and unloved affair.

All the focus, rightfully, is on just two teams – our finalists, and brilliant wine producing nations both.

It's also an all hispanophone final, something that hasn't happened since the very first World Cup final in 1930 when Uruguay played Argentina (and Uruguay won 4-2).

In these circumstances, only the very best will do. Ines and Julie, our last editors standing, have selected two World Cup final-worthy wines from each country.

Whoever you're cheering on come Sunday, make sure you have a glass of something suitably epic to go with it.

¡Vamos!

Ines: Spain

Spain: If you, like me, grew up with the brilliant Asterix comic books you’ll be familiar with the ‘Ils sont fous, ces Romains!’ exclamation and Obelix’s larger-than-life strength.

Well, well, well��� seems like it was the Spanish players’ turn to fall into the Getafix's potion and ward off the French invasion.

La Roja unearthed all the precision and effectiveness it needed to neutralise France’s Napoleonic luck.

Unlike other World Cup contenders, it is a team that hasn't relied on blinding star power alone.

Meanwhile, the French were stunned when confronted with the realisation that – excusez-moi – the whole thing ain’t that easy.

Spain now needs to muster even more strength and presence of mind as it prepares to face an archenemy, Argentina, in the final. Popcorn out fellas!

It’s the tender-fleshed Lamine Yamal against veteran Lionel Messi. It’s the former empire against the former colony. Yikes.

Argentina’s grit – perhaps even more so than its technique – is something to be reckoned with.

Spanish players might want to look at Rioja’s own Obelix-like Arturo and Kike de Miguel, the brothers – big in both size and talent – behind Artuke.

Their wines were the highest-scoring at this year’s Rioja Report.

Among them, La Condenada (the condemned) is a show of elegant rusticity from a nearly forgotten, abandoned old vine that shows that excellence needs perseverance and focus and can often be found when and where you least expect it.

Julie: Argentina

Argentina: Can anything stop the reigning champions? Following a dramatic and politically charged semi-final against England, Argentina meets Spain for the final showdown of the tournament.

Surprisingly, for two teams that regularly qualify for the latter stages of the World Cup, they haven’t played each other in a tournament match since 1966.

That was in a group game at Villa Park, when England was the host nation, and Argentina won the match 2-1.

Whether history will repeat itself remains to be seen. If it does, Argentina will become the first back-to-back World Cup winner since fellow South Americans Brazil took the 1958 and 1962 titles.

Previously only Italy had achieved a similar double, winning in 1934 and 1938. The history books are waiting…

The final showdown of the tournament calls for an award-winning wine: step forward Argentina’s Best in Show at Decanter World Wine Awards 2026.

Rutini Wines Single Vineyard Malbec 2023 comes from high-altitude Gualltallary, close to Tupungato in the Uco Valley.

Judges loved the way it ‘expressed the wild nature of Gualltallary’, with an intense palate packed with ‘high-drama fresh fruits which seethe and cascade across the palate in best mountain style’.

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Ultra-premium, high-quality tequila is on the rise. More and more drinkers are seeking a smooth, complex flavour perfect for sipping, and high-proof blanco tequila offers just that.

Where traditional blanco tequilas are typically bottled at 40% abv (expressed as 80 proof in the US), high-proof blancos can range anywhere from 45%-55% abv.

Made from 100% Blue Weber agave slow-cooked in brick or clay ovens, these high-proof, additive-free blancos are distilled to proof and keep water dilution to a minimum (or skip it entirely) for greater clarity and intensity of flavour, delivering a bolder sip.

‘In well-crafted spirits, such as the [54% abv] Tequila Ocho Plata Puntas, this translates to a more vivid, layered and complete expression,’ says Jesse Estes, a global brand ambassador for Tequila Ocho.

‘It does so without the harshness or burn many associate with higher-proof spirits.’

Taste the agave

More producers are now experimenting with high-proof blanco, not only to showcase tequila in its purest, most expressive form, but also to align with the growing appreciation for a more complex profile.

‘Consumers and bartenders want to try genuine, pure agave-forward tequila flavours, whether enjoyed neat, on the rocks or mixed into cocktails,’ says Léon Bañuelos Jr, a third-generation tequilero at El Mexicano.

‘A higher proof brings out stronger aromas and delivers a traditional agave taste, making cocktails more vibrant and memorable.’

High-proof blancos help enhance the herbal notes, pepper and earthiness of the agave.

‘At lower proof, some of that gets lost in the dilution,’ says Sammy Hagar, co-founder of Santo Tequila. ‘At higher proof, the agave flavours hit you in waves.’

How should you drink higher-proof blanco tequila?

These high-proof blanco tequilas can be enjoyed however you prefer.

Tony Salles, the third-generation Master Distiller at El Tequileño, recommends starting with a neat serve to fully experience the tequila’s intensity and character.

‘High proof blancos like El Tequileño Still Strength [50% abv] also work beautifully in cocktails,’ he adds. ‘The higher proof allows the tequila to hold its own.’

Bañuelos proposes using El Mexicano Blanco 90 (45% abv) to craft a bold, agave-forward cocktail, such as a Chai Sour, paired with rich chocolate made with 50%-60% cocoa.

Hagar suggests using Santo 110 Proof Blanco (55% abv) in a Margarita. ‘The flavour doesn’t disappear behind the lime and triple sec,’ he says. ‘It stands up.’

One to try

Tequila Ocho Plata Puntas

£141/70cl The Whisky Exchange

Made with Jalisco Highland agave, using the ‘puntas’ (the still-strength portion taken from the early stages of distillation) for intense oil and flavour concentration. Agave and salted chocolate hit the nose, followed by a spicy pop of cacao and a creamy finish. A strong choice for a Paloma. Alcohol 53%.

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Judgement+50

To celebrate the 50-year legacy of the Judgement of Paris, the International Wine and Food Society hosted what it believes is the biggest ever coordinated blind tasting. In eight locations in the UK, Australia and South Africa, 221 people tasted and scored the same six Chardonnays and six Bordeaux red blends.

Another 800 people took part in events in Asia and the US. In London, Bella Spurrier, wife of the late Steven Spurrier – instigator of the Judgement of Paris and, for 27 years, Decanter’s consultant editor – joined the flagship tasting.

And, once again, French wines were denied the spoils.

Kumeu River’s Coddington Chardonnay 2024 (£41.30 Noble Grape) from NZ prevailed in London and globally.

It pipped (in descending order by London score) Concha y Toro’s Amelia 2023 from Chile, Louis Jadot’s Puligny-Montrachet 2022, Chateau Montelena 2022 (whose 1973 Chardonnay triumphed in 1976), Domaine Leflaive’s Mâcon-Verzé 2022 and Restless River’s Ava Marie 2020 from South Africa.

Shafer’s TD-9 2019 from Napa (£82 Ad Hoc Wine Shop) won globally for the reds, but Kanonkop’s Paul Sauer 2019 from South Africa was the winner in London (with Shafer in second), seeing off Domaine de Chevalier 2017, Moss Wood 2021 from WA, Nicolás Catena Zapata 2020 from Argentina and Château Langoa Barton 2018.

Oscars night with Clarendelle

Getting your wine poured in front of Hollywood’s biggest stars and a global TV audience is quite a coup. If any Bordeaux name could pull it off, it would be the Haut-Brion family.

For the fourth year running, Clarendelle and Domaine Clarence Dillon returned as the Academy’s official wine partner, their reds, whites and rosés served at several events during the 98th Oscars.

I enjoyed a more relaxed version at home, opening the Clarendelle Bordeaux Red 2018 (US$20-$22 Widely available) and Bordeaux White 2024 (£20.70 The Wine Shelf).

The 2018 red is lovely – bright ruby, with fresh cherry and blackcurrant fruit, a touch of spice and that classic, supple Bordeaux frame.

The 2024 white is crisp and bright, full of lemon and grapefruit zest, with pear and subtle lychee notes underneath.

Fresh, harmonious and moreish. Clarendelle is the approachable side of the Haut-Brion stable – inspired by the great estate and made with the same rigour and team, but for more everyday drinking.

A Bunch of great-value summer wines

It’s a common assumption that supermarkets have a monopoly on wines priced at the lower end, for everyday drinking.

The Bunch spring/ summer press tasting (which UK politician Michael Gove wandered into), held at a private member’s club near Westminster, showed that the terms ‘value wine’ and ‘independent merchant’ aren’t mutually exclusive.

The bunch of leading UK indies (Corney & Barrow, Haynes Hanson & Clark, Lea & Sandeman, Private Cellar, Tanners and Yapp Brothers) traditionally come together every autumn to show a small selection from their current range.

This was their first ever spring/ summer tasting and it naturally majored on whites, rosés and lighter reds. Standout whites for value included Moulin de Gassac’s Languedoc Viognier 2025 (£13.25) and Cuisine en Famille’s Les Bras m’en Tombent Blanc 2025, from the Rhône (£14.95), both from Yapp.

Haynes Hanson & Clark showed an expressive and aromatic 2025 Provence rosé from Domaine Pique Roque (£16.35); while on the lighter-red side,

Tanners fielded Braida’s deliciously fresh, strawberry-sweet, lightly sparkling 2025 Brachetto d’Acqui (£16.90) and a crunchy, rose-scented 2023 Criolla from the El-Bayeh estate in Argentina’s Jujuy region (£16.90), both ideal for balmy-evening sipping.

120 years of shared history

The Wine Society first bought sparkling wines from Alfred Gratien’s Saumur sister house, Gratien & Meyer, in 1906.

The Champagne maison would soon become the producer of Cuvée 33, now known as The Society’s Champagne Brut NV (£36.50).

Together, the two companies have weathered many – and ongoing – storms: two world wars, energy crises, a global pandemic, Brexit, insane duty increases… the list goes on.

Through it all, two unshakable foundations have remained: mutual commitment and the society’s members’ love for Gratien bubbles.

As the society prepares to release a collection of special cuvées to celebrate the 120th anniversary of this exceptional relationship – including late-disgorged magnums of Alfred Gratien Cuvée Paradis 2008 – I went up to Stevenage to meet Nicolas Jaeger and Pierre Charon, cellar masters at Alfred Gratien and Gratien & Meyer respectively.

What followed was more than a stand-out tasting – I was privileged to hear living history told through exceptional wines and enduring institutional and personal bonds; all of which should be celebrated and never taken for granted.

Summer bliss at the English cellar door

Why not escape the urban heat and embark on a day trip to an English winery?

Maybe head for a tasting and lunch at Gusbourne’s cellar door, The Nest, which stays open late on Saturdays in summer.

Alongside the 51 Degrees North Brut 2016 (95 points, £195), the Blanc de Blancs 2020 (£65) is another must-try: precise and focused, with lemon-zest freshness, honeyed camomile and creamy brioche.

In Hampshire, the 2022 releases of Black Chalk’s top cuvées – Paragon Blanc de Blancs and Inversion Blanc de Noirs – are just out (both £65).

Savour the range’s signature razor-sharp acidity (thanks to the absence of malolactic conversion) and vivid fruit from the warm vintage when visiting the modern, industrial-style cellar door or attending events at the estate’s distinctive Circle Vineyard, where different grape varieties are planted in each quarter.

Meanwhile, in Sussex, Weyborne Estate’s historic manor house, draped in wisteria and gazing across the South Downs from an elevated vantage point, is worth keeping an eye on as its conversion into a luxury hotel gets underway.

Named after Lord Tennyson’s The Ballad of Oriana, the estate’s Oriana Golden Spur 2022 (£48) combines oxidative richness with a salted spiciness – a gastronomic delight.

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Remembering Sam Neill, 1947 – 2026

The actor and winemaker Sam Neill passed away on 13 July in Sydney, Australia.

Born in Northern Ireland in 1947, Neill grew up in New Zealand and became a passionate ambassador for the country's wines. He bought his first vineyard in Central Otago in 1991 and established Two Paddocks winery in 1993, which is now one of New Zealand's most respected wine brands.

Earlier this month, he was recognised as a Fellow of New Zealand Winegrowers for promoting New Zealand wine. He was due to be inducted at a celebration dinner at the end of August.

The organisation commented: 'As an internationally acclaimed actor and tireless advocate for the industry over many years, Sam has generously used his profile, talents, and distinctive voice to promote New Zealand wine, bringing authenticity, warmth and global attention to the people, places, and stories behind the industry.'

Neill was known for his role as Dr Alan Grant in the Jurassic Park films, as well as numerous other film and TV appearances including The Piano, Dead Calm, The Hunt for Red October and Peaky Blinders.

Decanter magazine published this interview with him in its July 2026 edition, where he discussed his wine lineage, his fondness for big Aussie reds, and how a producer once tried to woo him with two bottles of Latour 1964.

On the rack: Sam Neill on his love of wine

Interview by Lucy Shaw. As featured in Decanter magazine's July 2026 issue.

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The world of sweet and fortified wine can seem one of leather-padded comfort and contentment. It’s true that port, sherry, madeira and classic dessert styles are all about craftsmanship and tradition, of long ageing and slow sipping. So, nothing new to consider here, you may think – but that would be a mistake.

As the results from this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) show, these wines have stories to tell that reach back centuries and pull you up to the minute. Some of them may surprise you.

Colheita port: Time in a bottle

It may sound like a riddle, but can you think of a wine that was vinified in the last century but that was only bottled earlier this year? That’s exactly what the venerable Port house Kopke did with its 1957 Colheita, capturing a Best in Show in the process. (Consider: 1957 was the year that the Soviets launched Sputnik.)

Wines are tasted blind, so judges couldn’t have known its history, but the truth was on the palate, exhibiting ‘unrivalled finesse, subtlety and soft-fruited grace’.

Kopke, registered in 1638, is the oldest port house, with a history that spans nearly four centuries. It specialises in aged tawnies and colheitas.

Master blender Carlos Alves says: ‘Kopke’s Tawny colheitas come from single harvests and are aged in wood for periods of no less than ten years, and after which they are bottled according to market requests. These represent unique wines and cannot be reproduced.’ Indeed, drinking them is akin to tasting time itself. These wines are, says Alves, ‘genuine symbols of their time’.

Very old sherry: Oenological treasure

Sherry is a drink with odd nooks and crannies – which is what its admirers revere most about ‘their’ drink. The styles evolve and overlap, and some have a mind of their own, changing from one phase to another without the permission or interfering hand of a winemaker. But even by sherry standards, VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) is a curious and much-sought-after style – and the Best in Show-winning Bodegas Tradición VORS 30 Years Amontillado is a thriller.

The way it comes about is complex. Technical director and winemaker Miguel Villa explains: ‘The ageing process begins with a biological phase under a veil of flor yeast, which we extend for ten years. The wine then loses the protection of the flor and continues through a long oxidative ageing phase lasting more than 20 years.’ The result, he says, ‘defines the character of Amontillado, preserving the finesse and saline nuances of biological ageing while developing the complexity and depth associated with prolonged oxidative maturation’.

Bodegas Tradición was founded relatively recently by Joaquín Rivero and specialises in mature, traditionally made sherries. ‘Since our foundation in 1998, our mission has been to preserve and promote historic soleras – true oenological treasures.’

Vinsanto: ‘The soul of Santorini’

The island of Santorini may be tiny, but it holds a commanding place in the world of wine – and not just for its lauded dry Assyrtiko wines. Winemaking has been part of this Aegean island’s heritage for centuries, and no wine is more emblematic than its namesake, Vinsanto.

This sweetly complex, wood-aged and age-worthy wine is the forerunner of madeira and northern Italy’s Vin Santo. ‘Vinsanto is one of the most historic wines of Santorini and an essential part of the island’s identity,’ says Matthew Argyros, winemaker and managing director of Estate Argyros, who produced Best in Show-winning Argyros Vinsanto Late Release 2005.

It speaks clearly of its provenance. ‘The wine is made from a traditional blend of Santorini varieties. After harvest, the grapes are laid out under the Aegean sun for 12-14 days, concentrating sugars, flavours and acidity before it is fermented. The wine is then transferred to old oak casks, where it undergoes a long period of maturation. In the case of our Vinsanto Late Release 2005, the wine remained in barrel for 16 years before bottling,’ Argyros explains.

The extended ageing contributes far more than oxidative character. ‘It gradually builds complexity, texture and depth, while allowing the wine to retain remarkable freshness,’ he says.

Oremus: A tale of old and new

Careful selection of botrytised grapes, slow fermentation, lengthy ageing in small Hungarian-oak barrels in a 13th-century cellar… These are just some of the attributes that make Oremus Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2016 a standout.

Making Tokaji is a process that’s centuries old, but Oremus itself was established in 1993 by Spain’s Álvarez family, of Vega Sicilia fame, in a project aimed at revivifying this historic wine from the renowned Tokaj region after the fall of communism. It has grown into a 100-hectare estate, vinifying traditional grape varieties grown on volcanic soils.

‘This is a really special wine’, says winemaker András Bacsó. ‘We are harvesting both berries and bunches at the same time. The botrytised berries are picked one by one, manually. The bunches, which are almost botrytis-free, are pressed to give us a base juice, which starts its fermentation. In the middle of this transformation the berries are mixed with the fermenting juice in a 6 puttonyos ratio, which means we add 6 buckets (‘puttony’) of Aszú berries to one ‘gönci’ (136-litre barrel) of fermenting juice.’ Hence the name ‘6 puttonyos’.

After pressing, the wine continues fermenting for a couple of weeks. It is then aged for two years in small Hungarian oak barrels. After bottling, the wines are cellared for 4-6 years. It’s a ‘quite traditional’ winemaking style, says Bacsó. ‘But in the background, we are following and guiding every process with modern equipment to make sure that the wine evolves in the right direction.’

A wine like this can only be made when the conditions are right. But when they are, the results reward the patience required.

DWWA 2026: Sweet & fortified Best in Show winners

Greece

Estate Argyros, Vinsanto Late Release, Santorini, Aegean Islands 2005

Best in Show, 98 points
In our 2023 edition of DWWA we were lucky enough to try a younger version (the 2015 vintage) of the historic ‘vino santo’ of Santorini; this year we got the chance to scrutinise a much older version, dating from 2005. It is shockingly good: a magnificent tribute to the wine which, during the C13 to C15 heyday of the Venetian empire, became the prototype of seaborne, oxidative and hugely concentrated sweet wines and thus the forerunners not only of Italy’s modern-day ‘vinsanto’ wines, but also (in later fortified guise) of Madeira. It’s a dark walnut in colour, with powerful but impressively harmonious aromas of fig, date, dried apple, tobacco, walnut and honeyed baklava. The palate is deep and once again packed with dried fruits, but the celebrated acidity of Santorini’s Assyrtico sends its electricity through the wine, and it also has a significant tannic presence (perhaps the result of the wine’s very long ageing), which brings further balance too. There is, finally, an island or volcanic saltiness apparent in the wine to set the seal on its sense of place. Alcohol 13%

Hungary

Oremus, Aszú 6 Puttonyos, Tokaj 2016

Best in Show, 97 points
Our judges always enjoy discriminating between each year's clutch of Tokaji wines, and this year's cohort was better than ever. Little surprise, then, that it resulted in a third appearance for Tokaji in our Best In Show collection, and the first-ever entry for a 6 puttonyos Aszu (the two previous laureates had been an Edes Szamorodni and a 5 putts Aszu). A major point of Tokaji differentiation is between the creamy, silky seductive-reductive styles and those where some oxidative ageing has brought drama and tang. This wine belongs to the latter group, and our judges relished its notes of cooked lemon and baked apple, of linden tea, of autumn leaves, tobacco and honeyed walnuts. The bright acidity, as always, brings an alertness and vim to the wine, and note how flavoury that acidity is: it's the key to the wine's fruited allusions, very hard to pin down – but endlessly refreshing and enjoyable to drink. Alc 10.5%

Portugal

Cockburn's, Quinta Dos Canais, Single Quinta Vintage, Port 2018

Best in Show, 97 points
The 2018 Douro growing season was not an easy one: it was preceded by almost two years of drought, interrupted by a very wet spring (over 120 mm of rain in March alone), then followed by a fierce summer when temperatures regularly exceeded 35°C and in places hit 45°C. It also followed two widely declared Vintages (2016 and 2017), so many producers chose not to declare 2018 as a full Vintage but produced Quinta Vintage wines instead. Its nascent grandeur, however, is apparent in the fact that a Quinta wine from 2018 has won a place in our Best In Show selection for the second year running. This is a broodingly dark wine, opaque black-purple to the rim, with powerful aromas of blackcurrants, kirsch, violets and rosemary. It's very sweet but fruit-packed over a ground base of cocoa and cherry coulis; the port has prolific fine tannins, very low acidity and some cleansing pure-cocoa bitterness for balance. Serious stuff. Alc 20%

Henriques & Henriques, Boal, 30 Year Old, Madeira NV

Best in Show, 97 points
This is the ninth outstanding Madeira to appear in our Best In Show selection, but only the second Bual and the first wine to appear from the ‘Aged 30 Years’ category. It's a commanding wine, with levels of concentration normally only found in Vintage or Frasqueira wines: our judges were hugely impressed with that concentration and verve, with the complexity brought by its rancio notes, by its beautiful dried-fruit and marmalade flavours, and of course by its sweeping and majestic acidity. Pouring the wine into the glass alone will perfume a room. Once in the glass, you'll find a deep walnut wine with perfumes of fruitcake, caramel, prune and thyme. The palate, which seems barely off-dry thanks to the scouring acidity, triggers a cascade of apple, citrus peel, hessian, lavender, root spice and raisin; the finish lasts at least 30 seconds. This is classical Madeira of grand purity. Alc 20%

Kopke, Colheita, Port 1957

Best in Show, 97 points
We’ve welcomed two Colheita wines to our Best In Show selection before, but never one quite as old as what one of our judges called this ‘swoon-worthy’ 1957 (bottled earlier this year). The Colheita style of vintage-dated tawnies usually delivers more individual and characterful profiles than blended tawnies with an indication of age, though the latter have unrivalled finesse, subtlety and soft-fruited grace. This wine is no exception to the characterful rule, with its aromas of ‘treacle, pickled walnuts, soy sauce and dried mushrooms’ and its palate of ‘immense concentration’, packed with raisin, lemon, lime, cinnamon and dried-herb flavours. Whether you buy it to commemorate a seventieth birthday next year or simply to put the colheita style through its paces, there's a huge amount to enjoy in this near-septuagenarian. Alc 20%

Spain

Bodegas Tradicion, VORS 30 Years, Amontillado, Sherry NV

Best in Show, 98 points
This is the sixth VORS sherry to win a place in our Best In Show selection – though in truth VORS wines are so striking, so complex and so powerfully evocative that, once such a wine is entered, opened, smelled and tasted, it's almost impossible to stop it going straight to the top of our quality pyramid. The term signifies Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum – or, as a plainer English alternative, Very Old Rare Sherry; the youngest wine in the solera must have an average age of 30 years, and many of the component elements will be much older than that. It is as much an apothecary essence as it is wine, with its scents of citrus perfume, wax, gentian and orris root, coriander and fenugreek; a tiny sip will detonate orange and lemon zest, coffee, more root spice, bitter almonds and dried sage (and no doubt much else: everyone will find different allusions) to the four corners of your mouth and on out into the universe beyond. After you've swallowed, those phosphorus bursts of flavour continue to glitter like illuminated jewels in the dark. Remarkable wine. Alc 21%

Lustau, Almacenista Antonio Caballero y Sobrinos, Amontillado, Sherry NV

Best in Show, 97 points
Every judge who tasted this arresting and ultra-pure Amontillado commented on its energy and intensity, its silky purity, its spotless and refreshing cleanliness and its astonishing length and persistence. After that, though, the notes and allusions each judge picked out differed significantly, underlining the resource and wealth which lies waiting inside this bottle. Prunes, chocolate and Darjeeling tea for one; seaweed, savoury notes and umami for another; orange peel and salted caramel for a third. The wine's ‘downy texture’ attracted attention – though so too did its ‘firm grip’. An ‘ever-unfolding journey’ concluded one of our panel judges, summarising the appeal of this long-aged, long-treasured and ceaselessly allusive sherry. Alc 21.5%

Valdespino, Ynocente, Fino, Sherry NV

Best in Show, 97 points
This, only the second Fino to win its way through to our Best In Show selection, is (like the first laureate back in 2017) an older or Pasado style of Fino. You'll see this instantly in its deep golden colour, and smell it, too, in the broad, complex, savoury-coastal tang of its aromas. Yes, there is yeasty flor present, but there is much else too: seaweed and marsh plants, balsam, dried lemon peel, coffee and (according to one judge) ship's varnish. ‘The palate is big, bold and earthy,’ wrote that same judge, ‘with layers of beeswax, yogurt, galangal and nuts. Very very long and very satisfying.’ Don't look to this wine for the chilled crispness and freshness of classic young Fino with ample bready flor; instead prepare for a journey into the warm heartland of the style with this statuesque, resonant and gratifyingly challenging aged example. Alc 15%

After being walloped by what he called a ‘cosmic brick’ – a lifelong love of Pinot Noir from Burgundy – David Lett embarked on a quest to see where else, if anywhere else, this fickle grape could reach the same pinnacle of quality.

His search led him to Oregon’s Willamette Valley and, in 1965, he established the region’s first plantings of Pinot Noir.

The connection between Burgundy and Pinot’s new promised land, once merely cosmic, was now concrete.

We last reported on the France-Willamette Valley connection in 2019 and, as you might expect, much has changed.

Here’s the latest, along with reviews of 10 noteworthy Oregon wines from French-owned wineries.

New French investments and appointments: Beaux Frères and Ponzi

The famous Beaux Frères winery, founded by Michael G Etzel in the 1980s, was acquired in 2017 by French firm Maisons & Domaines Henriot.

In 2022, Henriot merged with Artémis Domaines, the fine-wine hegemon behind Bordeaux first growth Château Latour and Burgundy grand cru Clos de Tart.

Big changes ensued. Mikey (Michael D) Etzel, who had taken over winemaking duties from his father in 2017, remains Beaux Frères’ CEO and technical director, but has passed the winemaker title to Evening Land alumnus Damien Lapuyade.

Don’t let the French surname fool you: Lapuyade is a strapping American, born and raised in Napa Valley.

Lapuyade revels in the resources that Artémis provides. ‘It opens the door to all these prestigious domaines that have centuries of experience farming and growing grapes and making world-class wine,’ he says.

‘The transfer of knowledge, the cross-pollination – it’s an amazing opportunity.’

Pioneering winery Ponzi Vineyards, which was acquired by Champagne Bollinger in 2021, also looks different at the top.

Jean-Baptiste (JB) Rivail, a sharp-dressed Frenchman raised in the Rhône Valley, is now CEO of the estate, which had been headed by a Ponzi family member since its founding in 1970.

Rivail, whose own family has a nearly two-century history in the wine business, arrived with Bollinger’s checkbook and license to use it.

‘The trust they put in us is just unbelievable,’ he says. Translation: What Ponzi needs, Ponzi gets.

This is a welcome change for Max Bruening, the Ponzi veteran who inherited the winemaker role from Luisa Ponzi in 2024.

‘I didn't know what CapEx was!’ he says, noting how, before Bollinger, the winery had to make tough maintenance and investment tradeoffs.

Growing resources

Now, Ponzi has a $500,000 Bucher sorting line, new stainless steel and concrete tanks, more land, and a consulting contract with Italy-based vine consultants Simonit & Sirch, who work with elites like Burgundy’s Domaine Leroy.

‘The knowledge here in Oregon has been built on great people and cross-collaboration,’ Rivail says. ‘But international investors come with things you know are working in other regions.’

Some locals welcome the outside capital. ‘It validates everything we've been working for,’ says Josh Bergström, a homegrown Oregon vintner who studied in France and is married to a Burgundian.

‘It lends gravitas to the region, to the pioneers who knew Pinot could be great here. With other beverages taking [wine’s] market share, we need families who have been around for generations on our side.’

Not everyone is enthused. 'Neutral at best' is how independent winemaker Saul Mutchnick of Championship Bottle describes the overall effect of outside money on the Willamette Valley.

Though he acknowledges the important role such investments have played in establishing the region, Mutchnick laments how small labels often lose access to prime vineyard sites when moneyed interests move in.

He cites the Koosah Vineyard (purchased by Résonance Wines, which is owned by French stalwart Louis Jadot) and Bunker Hill Vineyard (Lingua Franca/Constellation Brands) as examples.

A two-way street: Burgundy also benefits

Burgundy has long been the world’s Pinot Noir lodestar and, at one time, inexperienced Willamette Valley vintners were eager to glean any knowledge they could from their winemaking idols. But these days, the knowledge flows both ways.

‘When we travel to Burgundy now, there’s a sense of collegiality that I don’t think used to exist,’ says Lapuyade. ‘There seems to be this mutual respect, where they’re asking as many questions to Oregon winemakers on what’s working and what’s not working.’

Véronique Boss-Drouhin, head winemaker for both Domaine Drouhin Oregon and Maison Joseph Drouhin, says the family’s Burgundy team is inspired by their Willamette Valley counterparts, noting events like the annual Oregon Pinot Camp. ‘Burgundy should have done that years ago!’

For Louis Jadot, Résonance serves as a model for effective customer relations; in 2027, the winery will host a cruise through Burgundy for its clients.

Naturally, the trip will include a visit to Jadot, and Résonance winemaker Guillaume Large will be on board.

‘How you make somebody fall in love with the wines and the brand and the story isn't through leading with the sales pitch,’ says Taylor Theis, the winery’s director of consumer sales and marketing,

Oregon Chardonnay rising: New project Atomique3

Chardonnay is on a tear in the Willamette Valley, and many vintners trace its success to Dominique Lafon, who came from Burgundy in 2007 as consulting winemaker for Evening Land.

‘He started bringing some cultural practices on how to translate this terroir,’ says Mikey Etzel, showing the locals when to pick (earlier) and how much fruit to extract (less).

Atomique3, a superb Chardonnay-only Willamette Valley label launched in the 2021 vintage, bears the influence of another Burgundy legend: Meursault’s Jean-Marc Roulot.

Atomique3’s principals – Felipe Ramirez, a Chilean who earned his Master’s degree in Montpellier in the south of France, and renowned soil expert Pedro Parra – recruited Roulot to consult.

Atomique3’s four core Chardonnays are based on soil type, which will come as no surprise to anyone who knows Parra, who has built a career on soil and even authored a book about it.

Ramirez, who drives around the Willamette Valley with chunks of basalt on the dashboard of his truck, is no less obsessed.

‘The only thing that never changes is the soil,’ he says. ‘The weather changes every year, people change, decisions change. The plans change. But the soil – you need thousands of years to see those changes.’

The Hills are still hot: Résonance, Drouhin and Nicolas-Jay

In 2022, Résonance expanded to the Eola-Amity Hills, purchasing the outstanding Koosah Vineyard, a former Christmas tree farm planted with vines in 2016.

This acquisition doubled Résonance’s Chardonnay holdings, and it now bottles a single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the site.

The same year, Domaine Drouhin purchased Methven Family Vineyards, adding to the Eola-Amity Hills presence it established in 2013, when the family purchased Roserock Vineyard (which it has now spun into the Roserock label).

The 80-acre Methven property has 30 acres of vines, but the move was largely logistical: Methven is a 15-minute drive from Roserock, which lacks a dedicated production facility.

With an existing winery, water, power and ample space, Methven ticked all the boxes. ‘We were blessed to find this place,’ says Boss-Drouhin.

The facility is now known as Roserock North, and the winemaker there is French-born Drouhin veteran Isabelle DuTartre, Boss-Drouhin’s lifelong friend and her partner in Caballus Wines, which also makes Willamette Pinot Noir.

In the Dundee Hills, Nicolas-Jay, the partnership between Jean-Nicolas Méo and Jay Boberg, acquired a 52-acre site on the AVA’s north side in 2019.

They planted 25 acres of vines and renovated the property’s barn into a production winery and tasting room. In 2026, Noah Roberts was named production winemaker.

An Oregon wine legend bids adieu

Laurent Montalieu, who came to Oregon from Bordeaux in 1988, established himself as a juggernaut over the next three-plus decades.

In 2003, he founded NW Wine Company, the Willamette Valley’s first custom-crush facility – although he prefers the term ‘custom winegrowing,’ which he believes better captures the company’s range.

Over the years, NW Wine Company grew to encompass brands like Hyland Estates and Domaine Loubejac. In 2021, Montalieu sold it in what was the largest transaction in Oregon wine history.

He retired from NW Wine Company in 2024 but is still on the board, and French-born Anne Sery is now director of winemaking.

Montalieu also remains owner and winemaker at Soléna Estate, which he founded in 2000 and named after his daughter, Soléna Andrus Montalieu.

One day the winery will be hers, but it’s hard to imagine her father sitting idle in Oregon. Says Montalieu, ‘I will never retire from Soléna’.

10 fantastique Oregon wines with a French Connection

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No stranger to sweltering New York summers, Sydney Fusto finds relief in zesty, high-acid wines. 'You want something that’s going to really wake up your palate and get your saliva moving, and the key is really fresh, zippy acidity,' she says.

With regards to seasonal food pairings, Fusto shares her love of Sauvignon Blanc, especially when sipped with citrus, cilantro, or anything with a hint of spice (think ceviche, crudo, and other raw bar favorites). If grilled meats and veggies are on the menu, she looks to darker-hued rosés and chillable reds, especially those made from Grenache, Gamay, and other high-acid varieties.

For crisp summer produce, crunchy pickled veggies, or when she’s really not sure what she’s in the mood for, Fusto usually lands on easy-drinking bubbles.

'When I don’t know what to drink, I reach for something sparkling,' she says, highlighting the versatile and spunky personality of Prosecco.

From budget-friendly bubbly to refreshing whites, rosés and chillable reds, Fusto’s following bottle recommendations promise to keep you satiated all summer long.

Fusto's five wines to sip this summer

Sommariva Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut NV

'When it's 100+ F in New York and I'm sticking to my clothes, I am not looking to think too hard, ball out, or show off–I want bubbles that are easy-going, juicy and straightforward,' she says. The answer? An ice-cold bottle of high-quality Prosecco, particularly the Superiore Brut NV from Sommariva. 'It has the lip-smacking tart juiciness of a fresh Granny Smith apple, delicate white floral aromas and zingy acidity to keep everything playful and bright,' Fusto says. 'Think of it like the sparkling equivalent of a refreshing glass of lemonade. It’s so pleasurable, you could drink it all day long–no need to be super cerebral about this.'

Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024

In the words of Fusto, haters need not apply here. 'Sauvignon Blanc is "that girl" and always will be,' she says, citing the signature herbaceousness and distinct citrus notes synonymous with wines made from it. Additionally, Fusto notes that Sauvignon Blanc-based wines typically have high acidity, making them perfect for summer fare, as well as cracking open and sipping solo on a hot day. 'I’ve been drinking Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc nonstop, and I even pour it by the glass at Manhatta – yes, I said New Zealand,' she says, highlighting the wine’s unique, savory curry leaf and Thai basil aromas, as well as its long, salty finish. 'It’s a showstopper,' she affirms.

Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo 2023

Rosé and summer go hand in hand, and for Fusto, Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo 2023 has become a go-to. Crafted entirely from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape, this vibrantly colored wine oozes with flavors of pomegranate, sour cherry, blood orange, and Mediterranean herbs–though don’t let its dark hue fool you. Contrary to the numerous myths surrounding rosé, darker-hued bottles don’t mean sweet or heavy. 'The wine is lifted and drinkable like a white, but has more stuffing and concentration than a lighter, less extracted rosé style,' she says. 'I highly recommend it with barbecue.'

Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol 2024

During her time at Cote, Fusto discovered her passion for pairing rosé and grilled meats, especially less rich cuts. 'I used to be more or less indifferent to rosé, as I would typically reach for a chilled red if I wanted some substance; however, I’ve since come to enjoy the summer spoils of a juicy grilled skirt or hangar steak with a darker, more full-bodied rosé,' she says, emphasizing that textured, fuller-bodied expressions produced with a bit more extraction – like Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol 2024 – work best here. Crafted from a Mourvèdre-dominant blend, the wine’s structured body and complex notes of red fruits, juicy citrus, and salty sea air come to life when paired with equally savory summer meats.

Domaine Giacometti 'Sempre Cuntenu' 2024

Come warm weather months, Fusto reveals that Manhatta’s customers can’t get enough of chillable reds, though not all bottles are created equal. 'A chillable red wine should have a higher acidity-to-tannin profile (or softer tannins in general) and a fruit-forward, juicy flavor profile,' she says. While Beaujolais is a classic option, she’s been reaching for light Corsican reds made from the Sciacarello grape. 'This bottle offers a great bang for your buck and absolutely sings with a chill,' she says, stating that wine has become a non-negotiable fridge staple for her. 'It's great with food, it's great alone. Sempre Cuntenu literally translates to "happy wine" in the Corsican dialect, and I couldn't agree more.'

Summer is made for exploration

Above all, Fusto states that summer is one of the best times to experiment with regions and varieties, thanks to the season’s light-hearted, laid-back nature.

Currently, she’s diving deeper into the wine regions of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa, as well as the appellations of coastal California. 'There are a ton of premium producers in these areas, and you’re also going to get a lot more value for your money,' she says. 'Trust me, there are so many bangers to be found at solid entry points.'

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I know a lot of people in recovery these days – as, I fear, many of us do. The wine trade, I also fear, is home to many people who should be in recovery but aren’t, or aren’t yet.

This industry, with its endless tastings, lunches and dinners, can conveniently mask addiction. In a business where it’s normal to start a 30-wine tasting at 9am, it’s easy to hide dependency.

For years, comedian John Robins hid his addiction, or hid the way he drank – not ready to admit that it was a problem. In his new memoir, Thirst: Twelve Drinks that Changed My Life (£20 Viking, May 2026), he traces his relationship with alcohol over the course of his life – from a sip of Champagne aged five to a seemingly perfect pint – and eventual journey into sobriety.

For what is undoubtedly a heavy topic, it’s a surprisingly light read, chatty in style and infused with dark humour, yet also with some literary heft (Robins read English at Oxford, so he comes with academic credentials).

The book offers remarkable insight into the different forms that addiction can take, looking at how a life can be controlled by drink – revolving around when and from where the next glass, pint or bottle will arrive.

It’s about the ways in which an addict will rationalise behaviour, the internal rules that render their addiction acceptable – about how addiction doesn’t always fit the stereotype.

You may not be swigging vodka from a hipflask at 7am, but you may still have a problem.

The wine business trades in a drug – one that’s legal, and one that I love, but one that obviously still comes with risks. Those risks apply whether you’re pounding cheap vodka, £4 Pinot Grigio or first growth claret – just because you’re drinking well, it doesn’t mean you’re not drinking too much.

Can alcoholics be ‘high-functioning’? Is Dry January problematic? Is addiction the product of nature or nurture? Robins discusses all of this and more throughout the course of the book, all effortlessly entwined with frank anecdotes about a life that relied on drink – and a life that was, for years, devastated by it.

I’ll warn you now – there’s a certain amount of bodily fluid involved. This isn’t a book that will teach you about wine. I suspect not many ‘wine people’ will read it. But you should.

It’s an important read – as well as a good one – for anyone who enjoys a drink, and perhaps especially for anyone who has ever wondered if they drink too much.

New wine region guides

New and updated

The Classic Wine Library (published by Académie du Vin Library) – publisher of books that are stalwarts for wine nerds – has just released one new and one updated guide.

Leading Portuguese expert Richard Mayson offers up a second edition of his Wines of Portugal (£35, July 2026), while Elizabeth Gabay MW and Ben Bernheim are behind The Wines of Provence (£35, June 2026), a new addition to the range that demonstrates that the varied region boasts so much more than the rosé for which it’s famous.

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More than 130 sommeliers, chefs and restaurateurs from 28 countries travelled to southern Sweden recently for Star Wine List’s 2026 Global Final.

Hosted by provincial wine body Terra Skåne, it was the culmination of awards ceremonies held throughout the year in 14 territories spanning three continents, plus an online contest incorporating the rest of the world.

From these regional competitions, 195 restaurants and wine bars won Gold Stars in various international categories, and were now eligible to win a global Gold Star at this year’s final in Skåne.

And on 15 June, some 130 representatives from 66 of those 195 venues attended, from as far away as New Zealand, Seychelles, Singapore, Thailand, Japan, Mauritius and the Maldives.

Before the ceremony at barbecue eatery Holy Smoke, just outside the village of Arild, the finalists visited Kullabergs Vingård for wine tastings from Terra Skåne estates followed by a traditional Midsummer celebration at Arilds Vingård.

Scroll down for Star Wine List’s 2026 Global Final winners

'A wine list that has soul'

Judging the wine lists, for who would take home global Gold Stars in 10 international categories, were Master Sommelier Stefan Neumann, the Regional Chair for Austria and Switzerland at the Decanter World Wine Awards, along with fellow Master Sommeliers Jonathan Gouveia and Piotr Pietras, plus Doug Frost MS MW, one of only five people to have ever held both the Master Sommelier and Master of Wine qualifications.

‘Judging the world’s best wine lists is very similar to being a food critic at the world’s best restaurant,’ Gouveia said. ‘It’s both extremely humbling and terrifying at the same time.’

Bangkok’s Inddee, a Michelin two-star restaurant that only opened in 2023, won a second global Gold Star in a row for Best Medium-Sized List, after taking the same award at the final in Vienna, Austria last year.

In his acceptance speech, head sommelier Thanakorn ‘Jay’ Bottorff said: ‘I genuinely believe it’s a wine list that actually has soul, and I’m really, really, really happy about it!’

Ferran Centelles, the joint Regional Chair for Spain at the Decanter World Wine Awards, who was one of the judges of the Southeast Asia wine lists, said Bottorff’s list was ‘as beautifully presented as it is well-stocked’.

In the global judging, Neumann compared it to ‘falling down the rabbit hole, but instead of just the Mad Hatter, you’re greeted by Jay and his incredible team, ready to guide you through the world of wine in all its facets and delights’.

Inddee saw off strong competition from 24 other restaurants including The Four Horsemen and Peasant in New York City and Trivet in London. They (and all runners up in this final) won global Silver Stars.

'We take you on a journey with the list'

Besides Trivet, seven other London restaurants were in contention for global Gold Stars, including Trivet’s sister restaurant Labombe, in the Best Newcomer category.

The other six were: Doppo (Long List and Best Italian List), Row on 5 (By-the-Glass List and Sparkling List), Daka Daka (Short List), Newcomer Wines (Best Austrian List), Restaurant St Barts (Sustainability Prize) and Oma (Special Jury Prize).

And the UK capital didn’t come home empty handed. It was Greek-inspired Michelin one-star restaurant Oma, which won a Silver Star as a finalist in the global Best Newcomer last year, that triumphed with a Gold Star this year in the Special Jury Prize for ‘a wine lovers’ place that does something out of the ordinary’.

Oma’s head of wine, Alessandra Tasca, who collected the prize with assistant wine manager Samuel Worsfold, was elated with the win. ‘This is unreal, thank you! We’re very, very happy. We didn’t expect it – we’re here for the vibes!

‘Ours is a list inspired by the Mediterranean sea,’ Tasca explained. ‘We wanted to give a different approach to how we perceive geography in wine.

‘The list is organised in a unique way. We have three sections: one is ‘influence of the sea’, and then we have ‘surrounded by the sea’ and then the ‘further inland’ section.

'So we take you on a journey with the list – it’s like going on a holiday in the Mediterranean.’

Neumann remarked of Oma’s list: ‘When you see great art you just stop and stare. You do the same here, but with the biggest smile on your face and most certainly a good glass of wine in front of you.’

Local yet global

Star Wine List founder Krister Bengtsson said the expertise of top international sommeliers, as well as insight from regional judges and ambassadors, ensured that the awards were both local yet global.

Each independently assess the submitted wine lists in each regional competition and then meet to collectively determine the winners.

Judges sought out unique wine lists that were notable for their theme, selection, style, structure, presentation or price, said Bengtsson, not simply because they had a cellar full of blue-chip Bordeaux or Burgundy.

He said this ensured under-the-radar venues or those with specialised or quirky lists had the same chance to shine as more prominent restaurants in larger cities.

Bengtsson launched Star Wine List in Stockholm in 2017 as an international guide for wine lovers to find great wine bars and restaurants, wherever they happened to be in the world.

More than 3,500 wine lists from 45 countries are represented in the guide – available as an app and at starwinelist.com. Venues cannot pay to be featured; all bars and restaurants are selected purely on the quality of their wine programmes by the Star Wine List team as well as sommeliers and regional ambassadors (local wine professionals).

The Star Wine List of the Year Awards and its global tour started in 2018.

Gold Stars – Star Wine List’s 2026 Global Final winners

• Best Long List (more than 600 references): Le Coureur des Bois, Beloeil, Québec, Canada
• Best Medium-sized List (200-600 references): Inddee, Bangkok, Thailand
• Best Short List (fewer than 200 listings): Vintage, Kontich, Belgium
• Best By-the-Glass List: Sticks & Stones Wine Bar, Munich, Germany
• Best Sparkling Wine List: Minne Champagne & Wine, Helsinki, Finland
• Best Newcomer List: Café Vivant, Menlo Park, California, USA
• Sustainability Prize (for sustainable commitment of both the wine list and broader venue): Restaurant Ark, Copenhagen, Denmark
• Best Austrian Wine List: Hotel Jagdhof, Röhrnbach, Germany
• Best Italian Wine List: Acquerello, San Francisco, California, USA
• Special Jury Prize (a wine lovers’ place that does something out of the ordinary): Oma, London, UK

To read more about the Gold Star winners and all the Silver Star runners up in each category, click here.

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On 14 July 1789, a mob of Parisian citizens stormed the Bastille, a prison that had become a symbol of the oppression of the ruling monarchy.

It was a turning point in the French Revolution, a culmination of social upheaval and the dissatisfaction of the common people against the ruling elite.

It marked the end of the ancien régime – the old order – and the beginning of the first French Republic.

Wine, as it happens, was tangled up in all of it.

Quick-fire history of wine in France

The vine likely arrived in southern Gaul (the anicent area of Europe that roughly corresponds to modern day France) around 600 BCE – centuries before any king wore a crown or the concept of France even existed.

Winemaking and viticulture flourished under Roman rule, but it was the monastic orders in the Middle Ages that turned viticulture and wine into a discipline.

Monasteries often owned huge swathes of vineyards – especially in places such as Burgundy.

Both church and nobility used their vineyard holdings to fuel the feudal economy, while increasingly far-reaching and sophisticated trade networks in which wine was a key commodity contributed to the rise of wealthy bourgeois mercantile classes as well.

Into the early modern era, wine increasingly became a status symbol in the royal courts, the nobles drinking Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux.

But the Revolution toppled the monarchy, and broke the aristocratic leash on wine. Vineyards and land were redistributed, sold back to the people, and wine became their tonic.

Bastille Day is marked as a recognition of the power of the people. Here are five French wines with which to toast it.

Five French wines to toast to Bastille Day

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Shocked, I sat in the front row. And smiling. Lengthy tutored tastings of this sort are often smooth with platitudes and buttered with praise. Instead, we got Pedro the Iconoclast, hacking away at the received wisdom of the wine world.

You know what? No one said anything; no one heckled; no one walked out. (The wines, it’s true, were too good to miss.) Mental note: catch up with Pedro later.

This was the Rioja Centennial Celebration (see my May 2026 column), and the tasting compere was Spain’s first Master of Wine, Pedro Ballesteros Torres. He began with unprecedented honesty: ‘I know less and less how to taste, looking at the labels. I admit it: I’m influenced by labels. If a friend has made the wine, I like the wine.’

None of the assumed omniscience and infallibility of the celebrity taster; instead, a welcome truth: we all taste subjectively and emotionally. See the label; forget objectivity. ‘The problem,’ he told me later, ‘is that the most influential tasting is not undertaken blind.’ True.

But Pedro was just getting warmed up. ‘We are destroying wilderness with agriculture, and thanks to our destruction we are sitting here well-fed today. I am proud to be part of this destruction movement. We need to call into question the notion of “natural” and “purity” in wine. It’s not true that wine can be produced naturally. You need a high level of intervention – and this is excellent.’

I followed up with him in our chat, during which he described skilful farming and wine-growing as being like successful parasitism. ‘A good parasite doesn’t destroy its host. Nature is not our friend; it’s the circumstances of our activity. We fight to defend our interests, but not to destroy our host.’ If he was a winemaker, he says he would try to maximise biodiversity to create resistant vines – but avoid dogma in the defence of his crop.

His views on terroir raised eyebrows, too. ‘The mathematical size of your terroir,’ he told the bamboozled throng, ‘is exactly the same size as the vessel in which you make the wine.’

This needed unpicking. Pedro, it turned out, considers the accepted notion of terroir as ‘fatalist: you’re here, you have this soil, this climate, this tradition, and that determines whether you make a good or great wine’. That’s wrong, he said.

He sees terroir (he prefers to use the Spanish word terruño) as a place made up of five spaces, five moments of becoming. The first ‘is the grapes, and only the grapes: never the wine’. That’s exactly what the vineyard has given.

The second terruño is the transformation of fermentation – ‘and it has nothing to do with the vineyard’. This is why the contents of a fermenting vat is the only true terroir unit.

The third terruño is oxidative, pre-bottling ageing (which changes everything yet again) and the fourth is reductive ageing in a tank or bottle (ditto).

The fifth terruño, finally, is ‘you and me: what happens in our bodies when we drink the wine’. We are all different microbial communities reacting in different ways to complex chemical substances: a singularity none of us can escape, that’s best acknowledged. Terroir is a product of all these changes and exchanges, not a soil myth.

One final inconoclasm. ‘1 January 1986 was the most important date in the history of Spanish wine. This was when Spain became part of the European Union. At that moment, the best Spain was born: it joined the developed world; wines and winemakers began to travel freely; the circle of appreciation grew. Spain’s wine regions acquired self-confidence – because others trusted them.’

The message here is that yes, politics matters, because it’s politics that creates (or excludes) what might or might not be possible; wine is not apolitical. And, Pedro and I agreed, wine has reached a dangerous pass. It’s challenged – by tariffs, by health alarms, by trade dislocations... and by attacks on the European culture and ways of thinking with which it is indissolubly associated.

‘Once again,’ says Pedro, ‘we have to reinvent wine to continue to live wine.’

In my glass this month

It’s hard to describe just how much the Jefford household recently enjoyed the 2024 Pošip from Grgić (working in Dalmatia, not California), grown on the island of Korčula, Croatia. It’s aromatically gorgeous, packed with powdery mimosa fragrance, while the palate is full of freshness yet vinous, sinewy and full, with a back flavour hovering creatively between mango and green olive. Perfect at 13.5% alcohol: any less, and you might miss out on that inner wealth, mellowness and expansiveness.

Related articles

The 24 red Best in Show winners were a varied, globe-spanning collection, with established names and emerging talent.

From the Andes and the Alps to an island in the Adriatic, and with classic estates and DOCGs on the rise, the list included wines made from well known grape varieties and newcomers to note. All are ripe for discovery. Here is a taste.

Frankland River: Western Australia, but not as you know it

Located in Western Australia’s Great Southern region, Frankland River can’t be called ‘new’. Its potential for winemaking greatness was spotted a full decade before that of its better-known neighbour Margaret River, and the first contemporary vineyard here was planted in 1967.

The red-wine focus is on Shiraz, and Ferngrove The Orchid Collection, Dragon Shiraz 2023 shows what the variety is capable of here: it’s the first Western Australian wine from outside Margaret River to win a Best in Show.

Like Margaret River, Frankland is a cool-climate region. ‘We have warm days and very cool nights’, explains Ferngrove winemaker Craig Grafton. ‘This allows our grapes to ripen slowly and develop complex full flavours while retaining a fresh natural acidity.’

Something that sets Frankland River apart is its focus on single-vineyard wines – like this one, sourced what Grafton describes as ‘our best Shiraz block, Block 11’ – part of the original planting when the vineyard was established in 1998.

‘Frankland River is quietly establishing itself among the world’s most compelling cool-climate landscapes’, Grafton believes. Here’s why: ‘While climate, elevation and the influence of the Southern and Indian Oceans shape our vineyards, it is the ancient, low-fertility soils that define our wines. These soils naturally limit yields and produce smaller berries with concentrated flavour. The result is wines of purity, balance and structure that express the character of Frankland River.’

Move over, Margaret. Frankland has arrived.

An Adriatic star on the rise

One of the most exciting wines to be awarded a Best in Show this year was from Croatia. Marijan Plaža Plavac 2021 is made from vineyards perched high on a steep slope on the rocky island of Hvar in the Adriatic, off Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. The wine is a personal passion, a family pursuit and a massive success story, all rolled into one.

Owner and winemaker Tonči Marijan is from Hvar. After a long career in the wine and spirits business, he returned home in his forties with a plan. ‘I came back to Pitve, a small village of about 70 people where I was born 58 years ago. My goal was to create a boutique winery that would produce the absolute best that this island can offer, especially from Plavac Mali,’ he says. Four years ago, his younger daughter Franka joined the business, which he describes as ‘one of the happiest moments of my career’.

The vineyards’ slopes can reach inclines of 60 degrees (Marijan describes them as the island’s ‘grand cru’ positions) and the grape variety has a story of its own. ‘Plavac Mali is closely related to Zinfandel, brought to the USA from Dalmatia during the great crisis when phylloxera devastated European and Dalmatian vineyards,’ he says. ‘This crisis forced many people to seek their fortune in the New World – including my own great-grandfather, who was driven by hunger to send three of his daughters to Argentina.’

Marijan believes Plavac Mali has ‘enormous potential for producing world-class wines’. Judges noted the enormous strides that Croatian wine culture has made. It’s a sentiment that Marijan echoes.

Switzerland: Europe’s ‘secret’ fine-wine nation

Valais. If you’re Swiss, you’ll know it. But if the name of Switzerland’s largest wine region doesn’t ring a bell, you’re not alone. Only about 2 per cent of the country’s wine is exported, making Swiss wine one of the world’s best-kept secrets.

This year’s single Swiss Best in Show, Domaines Rouvinet, Coeur de Domaines 2023, is from Valais. Véronique Besson-Rouvinet is CEO responsible for oenology, quality and sustainability for this family enterprise established in 1945.

Enumerating the region’s attributes, she says: ‘Valais is the sunniest, driest region in Switzerland. Sheltered by the Alps, we benefit from the Föhn effect, a warm wind that blows from the end of summer onwards.’ Then there’s the terrain. ‘It is very steep and the slopes face due south. The soils are poor and stony, and [proximity to] the Rhône regulates the temperature.’

Add to that grape varieties little known outside the region. The winning wine is a blend of 40 per cent each Syrah and Cornalin, the remainder Humagne Rouge – the latter two indigenous Swiss grapes, from vines that are 20-35 years old. ‘By studying the terroir, we have identified the variety and cultivation methods best suited to each site,’ Besson-Rouvinet explains. ‘The grapes are set aside for the single-varietal cuvée of each planted variety, but a small proportion is selected for the Coeur de Domaines. These are the finest grapes from the heart of our estates.’

If quality – as well as individuality and rarity value – rate highly on your list, put Swiss wines right at the top.

Barbera takes a bow

In Italy’s Piedmont, Barolo and Barbaresco (both made from the Nebbiolo grape) have long captured all the limelight. Now another ‘B’-grape – Barbera – is having its moment: for the first time this year, a Barbera has been awarded a Best in Show.

Coppo, Pomorosso, Nizza, Piedmont 2022 comes from the relatively young Nizza ‘super-Barbera’ DOCG, a restricted area of Monferrato around the town of Nizza in Asti. Previously a subzone of Barbera d’Asti, it was established with the 2014 vintage and denotes a 100% varietal.

Pomorosso, named after an apple tree that grows near the vineyards, was first made in 1984 and is Coppo’s flagship Barbera. CEO Rossano Savoia says: ‘Our winery was founded in 1892, and we’ve always produced Barbera wines. This variety is part of our DNA. But the ideas and intuitions that led to premium Barbera wines like Pomorosso date back to the 1980s.’ The region-wide project led by producers here to elevate the quality and reputation of the Barbera grape has been decades in the making, and is now bearing fruit.

Savoia believes that the creation of the Nizza DOCG has given producers ‘the opportunity to develop a vision – a project to create an appellation capable of positioning itself at the pinnacle of the Barbera variety. The most important part of this project is having identified and defined the area with the greatest quality potential.’ Of its future Savoia believes, ‘It is true that in the Langhe the future will see Nebbiolo as the protagonist; in Monferrato it will undoubtedly be Barbera’.

Nizza Barbera. If it’s not a designation you already know, make note.

Best in Show: The red wines of 2026

Bergerie Du Capucin, Dame Jeanne, Pic Saint Loup, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
This is the third time Pic St Loup has featured in our Best in Show selection out of a total of six Languedoc appearances, underscoring the potential of the pure limestones and ever-changing orientations of this eastern Languedoc zone. ‘The Pic’ is also a little cooler and a little moister than other Languedoc appellations, meaning that it is one of the spots in this vast region where Syrah still feels comfortable and at ease. All of this was evident to our judges as they tasted this “supremely classy wine” with its 70% Syrah component, entirely aged (for an unhurried two years) in concrete. Everyone fell in love with its herbal, floral nose, and applauded the fact that there was no oak to get in the way; the “resolutely pure and unadulterated fruit” on the palate brought great pleasure too – “totally open and pure-hearted” – and the “silky but persistent tannins” were much admired. It’s not a wine you need to wait for, and anyone who might doubt the refreshment potential of a great Languedoc red should take a look at this Pic performance. Alcohol 14%

Capezzana, Trefiano, Carmignano Rosso Riserva, Tuscany, Italy 2021
Best in Show, 97 points
Our second Tuscan Best in Show wine this year is, like the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a debutant in dry red-wine form within the Top 50 selection. It’s a wine from the small but deeply historical DOCG of Carmignano, a zone first acclaimed by Cosimo III de’ Medici in the early C18, and revived in 1975 as the first DOC to sanction use of Cabernet Sauvignon in its blend (though Cabernet is limited to just 10 per cent in this wine, with a further 10 per cent of the softening Canaiolo; Sangiovese accounts for the wine’s core). This Riserva from 2021 is dark black-red in colour, with splendidly ripe aromas of dimpled black plums, sage leaf and woodland undergrowth. It’s full and expansive in the mouth with a rich, succulent tannic frame, sweeping yet fruit-saturated acidity and a long and reverberatively savoury finish: one of the most generous of this year’s Top 50 reds, yet without sacrificing the nerve and nuance that seems to be a birthright of fine Tuscan red wines. Alc 14.5%

Château de Marsannay, En Orveaux, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Burgundy, France 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
This is the second Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru we’ve found for our Best in Show selection. The previous wine (a Malconsorts `19, featured in DWWA 2021) came from the Nuits-St Georges end of this lustrous village, whereas this wine -- En Orveaux -- hails from the combe of the same name, up above the Château du Clos du Vougeot at the village’s northern end. Despite lying at the village boundary edge, it’s endowed with all of the plush fruit brushed out with velvety tannins you hope for from this part of the Côte de Nuits. Those fruits are pure, sweet-toned and inviting: black cherry and raspberry, freshened by a little redcurrant. The wine’s tannins are sweetly gratifying and work well with curranty acidity to build structure, profile and allure. It’s accessible and unforbidding now, but our judges felt it would reward extended cellaring too. Alc 13.7%

Château L'Enclos, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
There’s just one Bordeaux in our Best in Show selection this year, but it’s a cracker. It’s actually the fourth Pomerol to feature at this level, and comes from the 2023 vintage – when those prepared to work hard keeping mildew at bay over the summer made beautiful wines in soft and comely style for mid-term drinking. Our judges felt this was a “high class” wine whose style combined the innate generosity of this appellation (the world benchmark for Merlot) with considerable finesse and restraint, perhaps due to its relatively elevated percentage of Cabernet Franc -- and there’s even a dash of Malbec in here, too. It’s an opaque black-red in colour at this stage with cherry and blueberry fruits, shimmering with a classical cedary sheen. The tannins are prominent, tender and savoury, and there is ample fruit-bonded acidity to give the wine lift and grace; the finish is dry and appetising rather than sweet and cloying. Needless to say, it’ll age beautifully over the medium term. Alc 13.5%

Clos du Val, Yettalil, Stags Leap District, California, United States 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
This is the fourth time a Stag’s Leap District wine has been elevated to Best in Show, and the second time that we’ve seen a Bordeaux blend rather than a wine that would qualify as a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc from this remarkable nested AVA within Napa. Our judges loved it: ‘powerful and persuasive’ said one; others found it ‘long, poised and eloquent’ and a wine of ‘notable finesse’. It’s a saturated and opaque black-red in colour and aromatically articulate as well as intricate: behind the cascade of blackcurrant and blackberry you might find lavender, herbs, black pepper and eucalyptus, while the palate is packed out, beyond its powerful fruits, with graphite, earth, soft leather and liquorice root. The wine is a masterclass in tannin handling: fine suede on the tongue. Its acidity is a quiet undertow, giving the palate ample flow and swirl. This concentrated and authoritative Napa blend perfectly illustrates the virtues of a milder-than-usual vintage for the valley; it will age effortlessly for a decade or two. Alc 14.6%

Condado De Haza, Reserva, Ribera del Duero, Spain 2021
Best in Show, 97 points
Ribera del Duero makes it into our Best in Show selection for the third time in a row this year, and the second time as a red wine. This is, in colour terms, the deepest of all our Top 50 reds: midnight black and opaque almost to the rim. Aromatically, it’s an arrow bound for the bullseye, without any exaggeration of oak or flamboyant overripeness of fruit: pure, sumptuous, inviting, sweetly refined and packed with brooding fruits. On the palate, too, it is soft and sensual, tender and teasing, ample yet harmonious – and almost a meal in itself in terms of its breadth and dimensions. There’s plenty of sustaining high-altitude acidity to keep the wine brisk, while the tannins have an energy and an edge to them too – which is just what those ample black fruits need. It lingers on the tongue, and the finish hints at savoury developments to come. If, that is, you can keep your hands off it for now... Alc 14.5%

Coppo, Pomorosso, Nizza, Piedmont, Italy 2022
Best in Show, 97 points
We’ve never welcomed a Barbera to our Best in Show selection before – and pow! Here it is. Fittingly it’s a Nizza wine, this DOCG having come into being in 2014 to showcase a Barbera-only subzone formerly included in DOCG Barbera d’Asti Superiore and centred around the town of Nizza Monferrato. It’s not a shy wine, and it left our judges excited: powerful black fruits with orange and blueberry scents layered into spicy, creamy oak. On the palate it’s rich, deep and heady, with more orange and black fruit partnered with voluptuous tannins from both skins and oak. It has all the athleticism of the variety -- but if you’re one of those who have found Barbera’s acidity to be almost too aggressive and attacking in the past, this wine may reassure; it’s balanced and vivacious here, thanks to the overall richness and wealth of the whole. Alc 15.5%

Dalrymple Vineyards, Single Site Pinot Noir​, Pipers River, Tasmania, Australia 2024
Best in Show, 97 points
Tasmania’s fifth appearance in our Best in Show selection is also its third Pinot Noir in as many years; two additional whites (a Riesling and a Chardonnay) were featured back in the 2017 and 2019 DWWA editions respectively. This wine is relatively deep in colour, with ample soft red fruit aromatic sweetness (cherries and strawberries); there are rose-petal floral notes, too, as well as cedar and graphite notes from fine-coopered oak. The 2024 vintage was mild and settled, with a generous ripening window, and the harmony and limpidity of flavour that comes from a season of that sort are much in evidence here. The Tasmanian difference, perhaps, is evident in a tightening towards the end of the palate as some sour cherry acidity creeps in to bring the flavour sweep towards a focused finish. A Pinot of style and verve. Alc 13.5%

Deep Woods, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
No Australian region has been more successful than Margaret River in our Best in Show selection since its inception in 2015: this is the eleventh wine from this coastal region of Western Australia to fight its way into the Top 50, and the fifth Cabernet. All the Margaret River hallmarks of poise, complexity, refinement and balance are evident in what one judge called this “fluid and seamless wine”; drinkers can look forward to “loads of development to come” here. It’s dark black-red in colour, with blackcurrant and blackberry fruits lent fragrance by dried herb complexities. The palate is concentrated, with significant fruit intensity in ‘essence-of-Cabernet’ style. You’ll find the fruit teasing, poised and mouthwatering, yet the wine is gratifyingly reserved and restrained in terms of its expressive articulation. The light drape of tannins adds gastronomic force and aids drinkability and digestibility, while the acids are attractively subdued rather than edgy and sharp. All the classicism of a great Cabernet site is evident in this aesthetically well-judged wine. Alc 14%

Delas Frères, Seigneur De Maugiron, Côte Rotie, Rhône, France 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
Eleven Best in Show appearances for the Rhône Valley but never a Côte Rôtie… until this year. It’s a wine from the 2023 vintage – a very good one in Côte Rôtie, since the deluge of rain that affected other parts of the Northern Rhône in mid-September spared this northernmost appellation almost entirely, and the slow start to the summer accelerated gratifyingly during an August when the terraces genuinely roasted. We don’t, as we taste, know the precise vineyard sources for this wine, but in style it seems more Brune than Blonde: dark in colour, with splendidly smoky, tapenade-like aromas (some found undergrowth and stone) rather than pronounced floral lift, while the palate is poised, lively and vivacious but underscored by ample backbone and tension, too. Look out for the salty finish behind the fruits and the attractively forthright tannins. It’s both classic and generous and would make a good prospect for ageing – though there’s nothing overly forbidding for those who would like to start sooner. Alc 13%

Delas Frères, Les Bessards, Hermitage, Rhône, France 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
This grand wine, like its Côte Rôtie peer, marks a welcome debut for Hermitage in our Best in Show collection, and it, too, comes from the attractive though accessible 2023 vintage. No one was in any doubt, from the moment it was tasted, that it was anything other than outstanding; it expresses the essence of what drinkers love about Northern Rhône Syrah from this magnificent and rangy hillside site. It’s an opaque black-red at present and profoundly aromatic, with a charge of lifted smoky-fresh Syrah currants as well as beguiling peony floral freshness, a black-olive tang and some exotic incense spice from fine quality oak (perfectly judged and unobtrusive). On the palate, the wine is quick on its feet and nimbly energetic; the fruits are almost explosive, dripping with curranty freshness as well as alive and alluring with notes of ham stock, smoked bacon and the treasures of the kitchen hearth. It’s complete and almost mesmerising, with poised but relatively restrained tannic support; acidity and fruit, indeed, are the main structural drivers here, but the ripeness and aromatic wealth buried in both ensure that there is both balance and resonance in the glass. Grand wine indeed. Alc 14%

Domaine Evenstad, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
It’s been a great year for Bourgogne in this year’s DWWA, with five wines in the Best in Show selection; this, the first ever Clos de Vougeot in the Top 50, crowned the region’s achievement. The fact that the 50.6 ha of this vineyard is shared by over 80 proprietors swings a spotlight onto the exact position of the holdings of each, from powerful and age-worthy wines coming from vines high up around the historic Château to gentler wines made from low-lying vineyards next to the D974. Our judges, of course, knew nothing about the exact locational origin of the contributory vines as they tasted – but all were impressed by the wine’s powerful and complex aromatics (the red and black fruits one might expect, but also brine, heather and rosemary). Its “tension and mineral richness” as well as its length, elegance and sappy finish, too, lived up to the expectations provoked by this historic name. It’s a Grand Cru of significant energy, yet its soft, giving tannins and juicy acidity will make it approachable very soon. Alc 14%

Domaine Serene, Aspect, Dundee Hills, Oregon, United States 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
Every one of our past three Oregon Best in Show entrants (in the 2016, 2020 and 2023 editions of DWWA) has been a Pinot Noir from the Dundee Hills. So too is the fourth, from our competition this year. Two of our judges spotted the “textbook Dundee Hills aromatics of cherry cola and sassafras” (in the words of one; the second judge also found diagnostic cherry cola) – though these aromas might also be described as alluring dark fruits which meld with intricate, fragrant oak in a nose of inviting fine-wine finesse. The palate is supple, pleated and finely gathered, and the strawberry and other berry fruits have a cured-tobacco softness and sandalwood allure. There’s impressive craftsmanship on show here – but outstanding fruit qualities, too; this is a concentrated wine that will continue to evolve and open with time. Alc 14.2%

Domaines Rouvinez, Coeur De Domaines, Valais, Switzerland 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
This is the fifth time that a Swiss wine has made our Best in Show selection – but (perhaps tellingly: the climate is on the move here too) the first time that wine has been red. All five wines have come from Valais. This is a blend of two typically obscure but significant Swiss specialities, the ancient Alpine varieties Cornalin and Humagne Rouge, blended with a little mountain-loving Syrah. There’s nothing in its dark, opaque black-purple colour that would suggest a cool climate or the struggle for ripeness, and the compelling aromas, too, are amply ripe though fresh, with notes of black fruit and incense spice (some judges found violets, cranberry and bramble). The palate is dense, vital and shimmering; it’s oaked, but the oak serves the fruits and not vice versa. This marks yet another missive from Europe’s ‘secret’ fine-wine nation, and if you’re one of the many non-Swiss yet to discover exactly what this nation can bring to the wine world, do try to track down a bottle. (Even if you have to save up first.) Alc 13.2%

Ferngrove, The Orchid Collection Dragon Shiraz, Frankland River, Western Australia, Australia 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
There’s a lot more to Western Australia than just Margaret River, as all those who love Australian wines will know – but, until this year, no other region in this vast state has managed to win its way through to Best in Show. Happily, this outstanding Shiraz from Frankland River, one of the star zones in the vast expanse of Great Southern, has come bustling through this year to stake its claim. Our judges applauded the refinement, delicacy, purity and limpidity of this poised Shiraz midweight: floral perfumes suffusing red-fruit charm dominate the aromas, while the palate is “classy, effortless and long”, and sees the fruits modulating towards something just a little bit more savoury, though the full development of these characters will need to wait a year or two longer. It has texture, and acidity is well-judged, balanced and unobtrusive. Poise and refreshment await you. Alc 14.5%

G.D. Vajra, Luigi Baudana Baudana, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2022
Best in Show, 97 points
This admirable wine (our fourteenth Best in Show Barolo or Barolo Riserva) offers a serene and commanding reading of the warm 2022 vintage, one without any sense of stress or excessive heat. It’s deep though translucent in colour, with soft, sweet aromas of burnished, autumn-warm red fruits infused with floral charm and lent extra complexity by forest and tea-leaf notes. You just know it’s going to be graceful and deft on the palate, and sure enough it is – but it’s also gathered, serious, taut and aromatically complex right until the final notes have faded. Its tannins are splendid: ample, soft but detaining, lending the wine gastronomic seriousness and finesse. Fine vineyard origins are surely in evidence here, as well as impeccable cellar work – and there’s no hurry to drink, though the wine is approachable already. Alc 15%

Georges Duboeuf, Château Des Capitans, Juliénas, Beaujolais, France 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
This darkly alluring Beaujolais is the fifth from among the region’s ten crus that we’ve welcomed to our Best in Show selection – and the first Juliénas; we’ve formerly applauded two Morgons, a Moulin-à-Vent and a Fleurie. It’s almost an opaque purple-red in colour, brimming with the perfumed ripeness which the magnificent 2023 vintage promised in this vintage. Among the notes our judges found on the nose were blackberry, blueberry and lavender, while the palate is fruit-saturated too (damsons and cherries join the party), with soft tannins, harmoniously juicy acidity and some ripely bitter notes on the finish to bring cleansing refreshment. Juliénas is considered one of the more muscular and powerful of the crus, and this wine lives up to that reputation -- though without ever toppling over into crassness or excess. Alc 14.5%

Icario, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy 2021
Best in Show, 97 points
Tuscany impressed in this year’s DWWA with two wines winning an outing in our Best In Show selection – and the pair includes this impressive wine, our first ever Top 50 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It’s from the outstanding 2021 vintage, and unquestionably merits comparison with the best wines of Montalcino and of the Chianti Classico zone. A dark, dense black-red, the wine’s aromas are close-knit and brooding, with sour-cherry, wild herb and gentian-root notes. The palate is a surge of energy: iodine, clove, cranberry and more root spice, with svelte, fine-milled tannins and sustained tenor acidity. Just a little bitter-chocolate sweetness creeps in tentatively at the end. Brilliant freshness and style from Southern Tuscany, and this is one of the Top 50 wines this year, which really would be better with a year or two longer in the cellar, such is its density. Alc 14%

Les Coins Perdus Du Midi, Bong Ving, Putaing Cong Grenache-Carignan-Syrah, Maury Sec, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2025
Best in Show, 97 points
The Maury Sec appellation came into being in 2011, covering the same magnificent Agly Valley sites that have long been used for the dark, sweet and chocolate-friendly fortified wines of the Maury appellation alone. The potential here to make dense and almost shockingly rich dry red wines lent profundity by their mineral charge is enormous, and this is the first wine of this sort that we've seen emerge into the bright sunlight of our Best in Show selection. Our judging panel was hugely impressed: ‘Authentic, traditional terroir-styled wine with great complexity and sense of place’ summarised one. Like our Croatian Plavac Mali, at 15.5% it's not a wine for the faint-hearted and would be best served in the depths of winter, when you need reminding of summer’s solar force. It's dark purple-red in colour, sending a billow of beautiful blackberry fruit up from the glass. The weight in the mouth is splendid, and the wine perfectly illustrates the way in which great tannins can be both flavoury as well as textured. Those blackberry fruits are everywhere, given lift by sappy acidity and without any oak noise to spoil the party; such oak as the wine has had is simply there to tame youthful exuberance, and the longer you spend with the fruit the more you realise that it is packed with herbal and stone complexities, too. A stunning debut for Maury Sec at the highest levels of our competition. Alc 15.5%

Marijan, Plaža Plavac, Hvar, Coastal, Croatia 2021
Best in Show, 97 points
This is only the second Croatian wine ever to make it into our Best in Show selection – and the first, a red-stemmed Refosco, came back in our 2016 competition. Since then, Croatian wine culture has made enormous strides, strides perhaps unmatched by any other European wine nation, so it was gratifying when our judges found this exciting Plavac Mali from the Dalmatian island of Hvar to champion this year. Wines such as this tend to come from heroic viticulture in extreme sites, often on steep slopes of karst limestone facing the glittering Adriatic – so if you’re after fresh, low-alcohol reds, look elsewhere. If you love the lavish, the warm and the exuberant in red wine, though, you’ll find this powerfully opulent wine a revelation: dense blackberry and black cherry fruit with overtones of fig, sage and thyme, lent balance by grandly soft tannins, peppery depths and sustaining though subdued acidity. Perfect to keep us all going through the winter. Alc 16%

Nicosia, Hýbla Biologico, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily, Italy 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
As things stand (though wine evolution never ends) this is a wine from Sicily’s only existing DOCG zone: Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a zone sited in the southeast of the island, circling inland from the town of Vittoria. It’s a blend of Nero d’Avola with the indigenous Frappato, and is crafted in a light, thirst-slaking style, with a backbone of pretty cherry fruit. This wine sees eight months in larger oak, just to calm the Nero d’Avola a little but without losing the joy of the Frappato. It’s a translucent red in colour, and our judges loved its aromatic blend of strawberry and cherry fruits with herbs, pepper and something a little more savoury and salami-like. On the palate it is bright, fresh and dancing, with brisk acidity but not devoid of tannin either: the finishing grip partners well with the wine’s acidity, and brings a little closing seriousness. Unique and unforgettable. Alc 13.5%

Rutini, Single Vineyard Malbec, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
Our 19th Argentinian Best in Show wine is also the sixth to emerge from Gualltallary, making this high-altitude zone with its limestone soils close to Tupungato (in the vast Uco Valley) certainly the most successful geographical Top 50 performer at the highest levels of our competition. Our judges loved the way this wine “expressed the wild nature of Guallta" and was so fresh yet so complete, with its vibrant, intense blackcurrant and blackberry fruits offset by “an intense chalky and austere palate” which didn’t lean too heavily on its oak treatment. It’s dark purple in colour and, after air, becomes alluringly fresh with both flowers and crushed cocoa husks aromatically apparent. On the palate, the wine is concentrated without being stewy or effortful, packed with high-drama fresh fruits which seethe and cascade across the palate in best mountain style. There are relatively prolific, fine-grained tannins to provide ballast, and the acidity is soft and discreet. Alc 14%

San Pedro, 1865 Selected Vineyards Las Lagunas Carmenère, Colchagua, Chile 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
This is our fifteenth Best in Show from Chile, and the fourth Carmenère – giving this ancient variety far more appearances in varietal guise than any Chilean rival (surprisingly, we’re still waiting for the first pure Chilean Cabernet to make the Top 50). It comes from red-wine hotspot Colchagua, and is dark and lustrous in the glass. Our judges considered it a great example of contemporary Chilean Carmenère (this variety, remember, is also widely planted in China, so international comparisons are possible), with floral rose notes to match its fruit and, as one judge put it, “wonderful tension in the palate”. The tannins are discreet, ripe and soft and the wine has poised acidity to carry and freshen the fruit; there are cocoa notes on the long and surprisingly lively finish. Alc 14%

Villa Maria, Ngakirikiri, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand 2021
Best in Show, 97 points
Our fifth Best in Show wine from Hawkes Bay is also our second Gimblett Gravels Bordeaux-style blend to come through at this level, though in this case Cabernet dominates the blend to such an extent that it could legally be sold as a varietal wine. It’s also a fine testament to the quality of the magnificent 2021 vintage in this warm, North Island region. Expect a saturated black-red colour with diagnostic New Zealand pungency of aroma: “rose-buds and mocha” for one taster, and “dark berries, meat, tobacco and boot polish on leather” for another. There’s also a lively plant-sap note which brings added freshness. The palate is dark, dense and meaty yet oozing more sap, too. The tannins are ultra-fine yet taut (leather once again is a good analogy) and the acidity is buoyant; it’s a wine that will hold well, and keep all of its freshness as it does so. Alc 14.5%

Italian cuisine has long been a world favourite for its authentic flavours and guileless recipes rooted in simplicity and quality.

In fact, the country's cooking was officially granted Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity status by UNESCO last year.

While pasta is a mainstay of Italy's mealtimes and a symbol of the country's culinary traditions (54% of Italians eat pasta daily (Nextplora [2024]), it's also a paragon of versatility and inclusion.

From celebrated fine dining restaurants to community kitchens run by volunteers, pasta always has a place on Italian tables.

One of the world's top chefs, Massimo Bottura, who played an influential role in the UNESCO candidacy – which was conceived by Maddalena Fossati, editor of La Cucina Italiana magazine – runs the gamut, from his triple-Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana to the international Food for Soul network of refectories, where nourishing meals are created from surplus foods for those in need.

Just say pasta

Although it's easy to just say pasta, when it comes to shapes, sauces, techniques and wine pairings, there is a universe of complexities.

Officially, over 300 pasta shapes exist, with more invented almost daily. Thanks to 3D printing, you can even order special occasion pasta to resemble anything from Easter bunnies to Christmas trees.

Ingredients for pasta are simple: flour and water. While in southern Italy durum wheat flour (semola or semolina) for dry pasta is most common, soft wheat is the typical flour of the north, where fresh pasta is more widespread; as it's lower in gluten, egg is often added for greater structure.

For hand-rolled pasta, a board and rolling pin (preferably beechwood) are essential, while cutter rollers are handy for getting the dimensions right. Pasta machines use teflon or bronze dies, the latter preferable for porous pasta that catches more of whichever delicious sauce it's served with.

Other tools include guitar-like frames for spaghetti alla chitarra, and gnocchi boards resembling butter pats for ridged pasta and gnocchi, again aimed at increasing sauce-clinging power.

Pasta heartlands

While every region has its must-try specialities, Emilia Romagna is considered the heartland of fresh egg pasta. Here, dishes are taken so seriously that official recipes are stored at Bologna's Chamber of Commerce, along with a golden sample representing the perfect width of tagliatelle (8mm).

It's hard to overstate the visceral attachment to certain specialities, and traditions are defended passionately: in a move to put a lid on one of the world's (but not Bologna's) favourite pasta dishes, the city mayor even led a 2019 campaign stating that ‘spaghetti bolognese does not exist’, in favour of authentic tagliatelle with ragout. Bolognese (beef and pork) ragout, that is.

Wherever you go you'll find a variation on the ragout theme, from duck in Veneto (with thick spaghetti-like bigoli) to wild boar, popular with pappardelle (wide ribbon pasta) and Chianti Classico or Montefalco Sagrantino in Tuscany and Umbria.

Emilia Romagna is most famous for its filled pasta. Dainty tortellini (weighing just 5g each, filled with mortadella, prosciutto, pork, Parmigiano Reggiano and nutmeg) are supposedly inspired by Venus's perfect navel, and served in a steaming broth suitable for any celebration.

One of chef Bottura's initiatives in his hometown, Modena, is Tortellante, a non-profit association centred on tortellini-making for people with autism (including his own son); the results are served at the on-site Bottega with Lambrusco that's often added to the broth.

Neighbouring cities Bologna and Modena have long disputed paternity of tortellini but generally agree on Castelfranco Emilia, a half-way house with a dedicated festival each September.

Filled delights

Whether they recall hats, crescents or body parts, the various crimped-edged shapes of filled pasta are conceived with the aim of keeping what's inside in.

In recent years pumpkin-filled pasta, originally from Mantua and Ferrara, has risen in popularity for its sweet and savoury flavours.

Exact recipes vary and are a closely guarded secret for cjarsons, another sweet-savoury pasta from Friuli in north-east Italy; common ingredients include dried fruit, herbs, spices, cocoa and jam with potato and ricotta. A structured Collio Bianco is ideal with such intense flavours.

In Sardinia, the closure of typical culurgiones (with potato, pecorino cheese, mint and garlic) is auspicious, resembling an ear of wheat for prosperity, while Piedmont speciality, agnolotti del plin (with roast meats) is purely practical, named after the pinching action used to seal them.

Curiously, agnolotti are sometimes served dry, in a linen napkin, and dunked into a cup of Barbera wine.

Long stories

Serving pasta in linen isn't limited to Piedmont: Rome restaurant La Ciambella serves cacio e pepe pasta (with pecorino romano cheese and black pepper) in a napkin. It's drier than usual, aimed at evoking the farmers of yesteryear who would eat while out in the fields.

Cacio e pepe is considered the mother of Rome's most famous pasta specialities, pecorino cheese and pepper being common to all. Add guanciale for alla gricia, and egg too for carbonara, or tomato for amatriciana.

Each sauce has its appropriate long pasta: tonnarelli (square-sectioned) for cacio e pepe, bucatini (hollow) with amatriciana, and spaghetti for carbonara. All work well with a structured regional white such as Frascati Superiore or Bellone.

Spaghetti (from ‘spago’, meaning string) is the tasty choice for midnight feasts and impromptu gatherings throughout Italy. In Naples and around the coast it's classically paired with clams; add mullet roe for a Sardinian favourite.

Spaghetti capital, Gragnano – the historic heart of dried pasta production south of Naples – is nowadays home to pasta-themed museums and experiences.

Pici and strangozzi are the preferred long pasta of central Italy, respectively round and square-sectioned, while Abruzzo on the east coast is home to fresh egg spaghetti alla chitarra, typically with delicious tiny meatballs.

Green pasta parties

Many Italian pasta recipes are vegetarian, incorporating pulses and seasonal vegetables. Another Abruzzo speciality, virtù teramane, traditionally eaten on 1 May, is like a culinary spring clean, with a huge variety of pulses, vegetables and pastas; whatever's left in the larder after winter. A cherry-coloured Cerasuolo, the archetypical all-rounder wine, is ideal.

Travelling south to Puglia, orecchiette alle cime di rapa (ear-shaped pasta with turnip greens) is a firm favourite on Italy's pasta map. Although turnips are a winter veg, the dish is a year-round mainstay here, as are Ligurian crowd-pleaser trofie al pesto and Sicily's pasta alla Norma (tomato, aubergine, ricotta salata and basil) – named after the opera by Catania-born composer Vincenzo Bellini.

Ultimate comfort food

Scientific research (including Barilla's 2025 study) has regularly found a correlation between pasta and emotional well-being, more so than other carbs.

There's no denying that whether its lasagne, Italy's traditional Sunday comfort food, or another of the many pasta dishes, it most certainly does have a built in feel-good factor – especially when enjoyed with a local wine.

Buon appetito!

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José Pizarro's seven days of food pairings for high street Rioja

We grabbed seven great everyday Rioja wines of different styles from the shelves, put them in the trolley, checked out and headed to Bermondsey in London, just south of the river Thames near Tower Bridge.

Waiting for us was celebrity chef José Pizarro, described by many as the Godfather of Spanish cooking and owner of a successful group of restaurants and eateries in London, southern Spain and Abu Dhabi, including three in Bermondsey Street SE1 alone (Lolo, José Tapas and Pizarro at Nos 102, 104 and 194 respectively).

He was ready to pair our high street selection with some of the signature dishes from his restaurants and career.

We hope these pairings will inspire you to buy a few bottles and get creative in the kitchen – Monday to Sunday.

Grab a copy of Pizarro’s most recent book, The Spanish Pantry: 12 Ingredients, 100 Simple Recipes (Quadrille, June 2025 – £28 via José Pizarro's website) and have a go at some Spanish classics.

A bit of flavour and comfort to get you through the week – without breaking the bank.

Monday

Tortilla from José Tapas

Red wine pairing: CVNE, Asúa Reserva 2020

Start the week with a classic dish paired with a classic bottle. The unctuous core of the tortilla de patatas – with or without the caramelised onions – that has been an all-time favourite of patrons at Pizarro’s tapas bar (and first venue), this year celebrating its 15th anniversary, has a perfect, effortless match in CVNE’s modern, everyday-classic oak-aged red.

An easy yet sophisticated pairing that’s all about no- nonsense, guaranteed satisfaction.

CVNE, Asúa Reserva 2020 | 93pts

£19-£21.75 Drinks Direct, Goedhuis Waddesdon, ND John, The Wine Society

Produced exclusively with grapes from estate-owned vineyards above 500m in Haro, this 100% Tempranillo lures you in with its seductive nose of violets, dried rose petals and tarragon.

The palate follows with structure but also freshness, balancing vivid acidity, juicy cherry and plum fruit, and broody touches of dark chocolate and coffee. Drink 2026-2030. Alcohol 14%.

Tuesday

Courgette carpaccio from Lolo

Rosé wine pairing: Ramón Bilbao, Rosado 2025

Affordability doesn’t need to translate into lack of flavour. One of the favourite dishes at Lolo by José Pizarro, the smoothly lit latest Bermondsey haunt of the Spanish chef, is based on the humble courgette, given a fancy carpaccio treatment and topped with buttery pine nuts, slow-roasted tomatoes and edible flowers.

It has been on the menu since Lolo opened in 2024 (currently £10 on the à la carte menu) and is going nowhere. It’s the same simple yet sophisticated simplicity in Ramón Bilbao’s Garnacha-based rosado – great value and refreshing allure, without loss of structure or texture.

Ramón Bilbao, Rosado 2025 | 89pts

£9.50 Co-op

Hands-down one of the best-value Spanish rosés on the high street: crisp and refreshing, superbly enjoyable yet structured enough for food.

Crunchy and well-defined cranberry, rhubarb, wild strawberry and white peach fruit mingle on the palate, outlined by an appetising saline rim. Drink 2026-2027 Alc 12%.

Wednesday

Gamba blanca al ajillo con huevos rotos from Pizarro

White wine pairing: Cosme Palacio, Glorioso Blanco 2024

What do you need on a Wednesday? A wholesome midweek dinner paired with a wine that’s easy but fine, fluid yet complex, sophisticated in a laidback kind of way.

You need a pairing that provides sustenance, is authentic and just reminds you that life is made of simple yet delicious things. By combining two Spanish basics – gambas al ajillo (prawns fried with garlic) and huevos rotos (runny fried eggs on a bed of french fries) – Pizarro created one of the signature dishes at his eponymous flagship restaurant and delivers just that hearty comfort.

A glass of Glorioso Blanco answers with invigorating freshness and salinity.

Cosme Palacio, Glorioso Blanco 2024 | 90pts

£11.50-£15 Reserve Wines, The Wine Society

A lovely blend of Viura with a touch of Tempranillo Blanco, in which crispy pear and clementine peel dominate the structured, vibrant palate.

There’s a salty turn of toasted almonds and preserved lemon, and it’s a touch unctuous and very juicy at the core. Gentle florality (hay, camomile) in the background. Lovely presence on the mid-palate, with width and a pleasant saline richness. Drink 2026-2027 Alc 12.5%.

Thursday

Mediterranean red prawn carpaccio from Lolo

Rosé wine pairing: Muga, Rosado 2025

With the weekend just around the corner you’ll want to keep things simple and fresh. Start getting into relaxation mode with this prawn carpaccio – seemingly easy to make, but a dish that will require patience and precision.

The secret is using the best ingredients only: super- fresh red prawns, juicy oranges and chilli. Or just head to Lolo to have it prepared for you! This is off the menu at this stage of the year (it’s not citrus season after all) but it will be back before long.

Pair with the rosado from Muga, a nuanced Garnacha- based pink that will pair perfectly both with the delicate flesh of the prawns and the pre-weekend mood.

Muga, Rosado 2025 | 91pts

��11.95-£16.99 Majestic, Martinez Wines, Waitrose Cellar, Waud Handford, The Wine Society

Delicate floral and herbal touches dance over cranberry, wild strawberry and pomegranate fruit. Top notes of rose and orange blossom are echoed on the palate, lifting the fleshy yellow and pink orchard fruit.

Voluminous and unctuous, yet with a zesty pep throughout. A blend of Garnacha with about 30% Viura. Drink 2026-2027 Alc 13.5%.

Friday

Clams & fino Sherry from José Tapas

White wine pairing: Montecillo, On the QT Bin 37 2024

Clams cooked in a fino-based sauce? Yes, please. Just the kind of simple-yet-special combination that will ease you into the weekend and it’s on rotation at Pizarro’s tapas bar.

The dish calls for a structured, poised white and the On the QT Bin 37 definitely meets the brief. It’s also, unquestionably, a special wine of which not many bottles are left. Grab yours while you can.

Montecillo, On the QT Bin 37 2024 | 93pts

£21.25 Waitrose Cellar

This delicious, rather unique expression of Garnacha Blanca hails from a single barrel selected by winemaker Mercedes García Rupérez and Waitrose buyer Xenia Ruscombe-King MW.

Structured and delightfully complex, the fleshy loquat, apricot and peach fruit is deftly topped by orange zest, acacia and almond blossom. There’s a peppery, tingling vibrancy to the finish. Drink 2026-2028 Alc 13%.

Saturday

Carabinero rice from Pizarro

Red wine pairing: La Rioja Alta, Viña Alberdi Selección Especial 2021

Wake up (not too early) on Saturday morning and head to the fishmonger. Saturday is the perfect day to indulge and splurge on top produce – such as some meaty, red-hued carabineros, wild-caught large deep-sea prawns prized for a meat that’s lobster-like in consistency but elevated in flavour.

Served with a rich, creamy rice accompaniment – as was once the case at Pizarro – it makes for a sophisticated yet filling dish that calls for a finely structured red with refreshing acidity at its core.

Go for La Rioja Alta’s Viña Alberdi Selección Especial, a wine that punches well above its weight (without ever getting tired) and delivers structure, finesse and drinkability in equal measures.

La Rioja Alta, Viña Alberdi Selección Especial Reserva 2021 | 93pts

£20 Waitrose Cellar

A beautiful expression of classical Rioja, 100% Tempranillo, perfect for elevated everyday drinking. The ripe cranberry, cherry and plum fruit is laced with notes of vanilla, cardamom, sage and powdered coffee.

The tannins are assertive but rounded and pave the way for the elegant and brightly spicy finish. Drink 2026-2031 Alc 14%.

Sunday

Marinated pork fillet from Lolo

Red wine pairing: Faustino, I Gran Reserva 2016

The marinated pork fillet now on the menu at Lolo is a special dish created to celebrate the 15th anniversary of José Pizarro’s first opening on Bermondsey Street in 2011.

It’s a rightful celebration of persistence and time, hallmarks of that cooking method – marinating – that requires foresight and patience. So think in advance if you want your perfectly marinated meat on Sunday.

The Faustino I has also greatly benefited from all of the time it has spent in the bottle and will work as a fine, savoury, earthy counterpoint to the meat and marinade. Sit back and get ready for another week ahead.

Faustino, I Gran Reserva 2016 | 93pts

£18.47-£25.95 Asda, Drinks Direct, Secret Bottle Shop, T Wright

While still a bit tightly coiled, even at 10 years old, this well-recognised Gran Reserva – a blend of Tempranillo with 8% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo – is already showing well-honed layering of dried tobacco leaf, coffee bean, liquorice root, prune and caramel.

Elegantly fragrant Earl Grey and Assam notes play in the background and linger on the savoury finish. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14%.

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It's the semi-finals. Four teams, two games, one final match to decide it all.

And all four teams that have made it this far are from winemaking nations.

Whatever the results over these final games, the record of a winemaking country always winning the World Cup is guaranteed.

But who will be in that final game? France look like the best team overall. Spain feel like dark horses who could win in a closely-fought slugging match.

England and Argentina both have shown flashes of brilliance but also fraught, rather flawed performances from which they somehow emerge victorious.

And the potential finals are ripe with historic firsts. Will it be a third back-to-back final for France? A rematch against Argentina? A first-time clash against England who would be in their first final in 60 years.

Or maybe a rematch of 2024's Euros final? Spain vs England. Or, even, a first World Cup meeting between Spain and Argentina since (incredibly) 1966.

All to play for – here's what we're pairing with each match...

And if you feel the need for some... actual football analysis during this World Cup, do check in on our friends and colleagues over at FourFourTwo for all their updates and coverage.

Izzy: England

England (vs Argentina): The final four! After a rather nervy win over the Vikings on Saturday, England are through to the semi-finals for only the fourth time since 1966.

They’ll be meeting current title-holders Argentina in Atlanta, where both teams have previously pulled back from a losing position to overcome their rivals (England against DR Congo and Argentina in their dramatic win over Egypt last week).

Argentina have a particular habit of clawing back a win from the jaws of defeat, so England will need to show real grit and persistence to keep Lionel Messi at bay.

In this spirit, let’s continue to plumb the Decanter World Wine Awards for bottles that showcase the best of England winemaking, and try this platinum-winning sparkling rosé from Berkshire.

From a winery established less than 15 years ago – younger than Messi’s World Cup career – this is an extremely impressive wine, which shows the value of hard work and determination in the vineyard (as on the pitch!)

A wine that is delightfully English with rose garden, strawberry and red apple notes, it is described as an ‘allegory of national intent’ – a fitting choice for the team’s toughest match yet.

Rupert: France

France (vs Spain): Two European football and winemaking giants going head-to-head, and on Bastille Day no-less.

For two such famous footballing nations, it’s surprising that France and Spain haven’t clashed more often in major tournaments.

Spain has had the better of the most recent encounters in the Euros – beating France in the quarter-finals in 2012 and semi-finals in 2024 (going on to win those tournaments on both occasions).

The last – and in fact only – World Cup clash between the two was 20 years ago in 2006, the final hurrah of Zidane, Henry, Viera & co, and which France won (before losing in the final).*

In such circumstances it’s time to throw caution to the wind and lavish some money on a special bottle. It should be something ‘very French’ and is there anything more French than old Bordeaux?

Perhaps something from the 2006 vintage in honour of the last time these countries met.

An underrated vintage that, at 20 years old (and like this French team), is still revealing its charms, try snagging something like this Château Cos d’Estournel which continues to boast ‘abundant blackcurrant fruit and subtle hints of pepper, cedar, and smoke’.

*There was also the 5-4 Spanish victory in the semi-finals of the UEFA Nations League in 2025, but, honestly, who remembers/cares about that?

Ines: Spain

Spain (vs France): Would Spain have won its quarter-final duel if Belgium's goalie, Thibaut Courtois, hadn’t left the game injured? We’ll never know.

The road to victory is paved with unfair casualties and (a lot of) luck.

However, luck seems to often fail those who face France… La Roja needs, more than ever, to rely only on itself.

This semi-final calls for consistency, poise, nerve and resilience – the attributes of a good Ribera del Duero, such as the Finca las Dueñas Reserva from charismatic producer Francisco Barona, himself a great source of inspiration for Spanish players.

Barona's passion, work ethic and hands-on knowledge produce some of Ribera’s most exciting modern classics.

A recipe for champions?

Julie: Argentina

Argentina (vs England): A classic football rivalry – Maradona’s hand of God, David Beckham’s red card – when it comes to Argentina vs England in the World Cup heartbreak is just around the corner.

But the two sides haven’t met since Japan in 2002 (which England won) and, incredible, though it may seem, Lionel Messi has never played against England in his career.

Well, that all ends in Atlanta on Wednesday evening with two teams that have both flirted with brilliance and disaster on their tournament journeys so far.

As we’re rekindling an old footballing beef let’s keep it straightforward; a pure expression of high altitude Argentine Malbec.

Catena Zapata’s ‘Malbec Argentino’ is not only about as on-the-nose as it gets name-wise but also a wine that displays all the ‘dynamism, character and typicity’ we've come to expect from the country's wines – and their football team.

Expect, ‘juicy ripe cherry, plum, pink peach, pomegranate’ and possibly some more Messi magic.

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When you’ve lived in Australia for a while, you’ll eventually notice how many Italians – migrants or their descendants – you meet.

By then you’ll also have noticed how entrenched Italian culture, especially food and wine, is in the local landscape.

Following the major post-war waves of migration, Italy remains within the top 10 countries of birth among Australia’s overseas-born population, according to the latest Australian Bureau of Statistics data.

Many migrants from the post-war Italian diaspora chose to work in agriculture and several Australian wine regions – in particular the Riverina in New South Wales and King Valley in Victoria – boast numerous Italian families whose members have been making wine for generations.

Given this generational exposure and deep appreciation, it’s fascinating to see a small, adventurous group of Australians and New Zealanders travelling in the opposite direction.

I reached out to five of these mavericks, each of whom is carving a name for themselves in Italy, and often bringing a uniquely antipodean adventurous spirit to winemaking, shaking up centuries-old traditions along the way.

Jeffrey Chilcott

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy, Piedmont

After being part of the Kiwi hospitality scene during the 1980s, Jeffrey Chilcott moved to London to see some of the bands that had never made the long trip to New Zealand performing live.

After a three-month train trip around Europe, he ended up in Italy, where he caught the Nebbiolo bug, prompting him to knock on doors across the Langhe region until Celestino Vacca, the then president of Produttori del Barbaresco, offered him accommodation.

‘People said the Piemontesi may not be so open, but I found the opposite,’ Chilcott says.

In the early 1990s, he would meet with Giovanni Conterno and other old-guard producers to taste local and international wines.

‘New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc was alien to them as a wine style, and they struggled to get their heads around the overtly herbaceous and pungent nature,’ he says.

Chilcott later joined the historic Marchesi di Grésy. ‘I’m the cellar master at Marchesi and I do some travelling for them,’ he says. ‘I’m very close with the family and everyone else in the region.’

Considered one of Piedmont’s top producers, Marchesi di Grésy is renowned for a style rooted in tradition but ‘open to technology’.

Among its 35ha of vineyards, spread across the Langhe and Monferrato, is the monopole Martinenga, owned since 1797 and the jewel in the estate’s crown.

Considered a human encyclopaedia of vintages, Chilcott has witnessed the rise of the modernists, influencing his approach to Nebbiolo.

While he believes the variety demands patience, he acknowledges that incremental fine-tuning – particularly in tannin management and winery hygiene – has opened Barolo and Barbaresco to international audiences.

‘You know Campari? It has that dolce-amaro – bittersweet – quality, intrinsic to a lot of Italian food, and people,’ Chilcott says.

‘In the old days, Nebbiolo wasn’t always harmonious – the dolce [the fruit quality] was not always in harmony with the amaro [the tannins, which could dominate and require significant time to integrate].’

David Fletcher

Fletcher Wines, Piedmont

Born in Adelaide and now an Italian citizen, David Fletcher has always had itchy feet. He was working as a winemaker in Victoria, focused on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, when he first discovered Nebbiolo at a Barolo tasting – the wines stopped him in his tracks.

‘I jumped on a plane a year later to work the 2007 harvest at Ceretto, in the Langhe,’ he says. ‘I wanted to learn everything about Nebbiolo. I thought I might take that knowledge back to Australia – which I did to some extent – but I also fell in love with Italy.’

Fletcher founded his own label in 2009, initially buying grapes from Barolo and Barbaresco, and working out of other producers’ facilities.

It wasn’t until 2012, when he started working full-time as winemaker for Ceretto and stopped dividing his time between Australia and Italy, that he was able to base himself in the latter and fully focus on growing his label locally.

The project began modestly, with wines sold mainly in Australia. For sommeliers there it was exciting to pour a Barbaresco made by an Australian; for the people back in Piedmont, acceptance took longer.

‘There are Barolo families older than me and you put together,’ he says. ‘In Langhe, it’s a very hands-on, relationship-based business. In Australia, you just pick up the phone and someone will do things for you.’

The turning point came in 2015 with the purchase of the building that would become the winery – the dilapidated Babaresco train station, uniquely positioned in a valley surrounded by top-quality vineyards.

‘One morning I walked into the local café and a few pensioners came up to me, patting me on the back and saying I’d done something good for the community.’

Today, Fletcher farms 5.5ha organically, while also making Nebbiolo in Australia under the label of Fletcher, The Minion.

He uses open fermentations, with fully destemmed fruit, extending the ageing beyond minimum requirements in old barriques.

By ‘deconstructing the tradition’, Fletcher has developed a nuanced understanding of the territory.

These days, the only thing he really misses about Australia is his family, though he’s happy to be growing his own in a country where family remains at the heart of everything.

Zoe Johnson

JG Benda, Montalcino, Tuscany

A Sydney-based food and wine journalist with a British passport, Zoe Johnson first bridged the gap with Italy from afar, working in PR for Emilia-Romagna-based kitchen appliance company Smeg and Barilla, the world’s largest pasta producer.

In 2014, she was sent to Venice to assist Australian architects at the Biennale exhibition.

‘From there I decided to stay,’ she says. ‘I promised my dad I would come home after one year, but I never did – it’s still a problem.’

Her path into wine came almost by chance, at a moment when she was considering returning home as she approached 50.

‘I met John [Benda], my partner; he had previously worked in banking and finance in London, and had just bought some land here in Montalcino,’ she says. ‘The 2021 was our first vintage together.’

Though neither comes from a winemaking background, both share a deep love of Italian food and wine. Their 2ha sit at around 550m, higher than many local sites. The couple do everything together, from working in the vineyard to bottling.

The dry-farmed vineyards are certified organic; in the cellar, the approach is firmly minimal intervention, with no temperature control.

They look after distribution and direct-to-consumer events themselves. They only receive occasional guidance from a microbiologist from the University of Florence.

‘We are pruning now; my hand is very sore – I think I have arthritis from using normal cutters. But we’re so humbled,’ Johnson says.

‘I’m staying in Tuscany because if you find a purpose, it doesn’t matter where you are. And I found everything all in one place – the person I love, the job I love and the land I love.’

Trish Nelson

Gazzetta Wines, Lazio

A globetrotter from birth, Trish Nelson changed countries every five years, only arriving in Australia at age 15. Italy took a little longer.

‘I was working in Hong Kong in architectural design and got really interested in sustainable agriculture,’ she says.

‘I then moved back to Sydney and met Giorgio de Maria, sommelier at Berta and natural wine bar 121 BC.’ De Maria’s contagious passion for natural wine proved decisive.

When Nelson travelled to Italy to pursue a master’s degree in sustainable agriculture, she visited many of the producers whose wines had first inspired her in Australia.

An invitation to visit Cantina Giardino in Campania turned into a year and a half there, working in the vineyard and winery. This was followed by stints in viticulture and winemaking at Ajola in Orvieto and Le Coste, on lake Bolsena in northern Lazio, Europe’s largest volcanic lake.

It was there, two hours north of Rome, that she found her base in 2017: a small house and a run-down vineyard above the town, overlooking the lake.

The Gazzetta natural wines – made from organically farmed Procanico, Ansonica, Malvasia, Trebbiano Giallo, Aleatico, Sangiovese and Merlot grapes, among others – are fermented spontaneously, and made without added sulphur.

To stabilise the wines for export – including to de Maria, her Australian distributor – Nelson relies on extended maceration.

‘The tannins are natural preservatives,’ she explains, ‘and if you’re not adding anything and the pH of the wine is high – which it is here, given the volcanic soils – a few days of maceration helps.’

While awaiting Italian citizenship, Nelson admits that life isn’t a bed of roses.

‘It’s beautiful that tradition and regionality are so strong here,’ she says, ‘but as a foreigner, sometimes you feel like a fish out of water.’

Anna Martens

Vino di Anna, Etna

Having begun your career in microbiology at Petaluma in the Adelaide Hills in 1993 and enrolled in the Master of Wine programme six years later, your trajectory might seem set on a prestigious, if conventional, path.

That was certainly the case for Anna Martens, who, in 2004, was offered the position of assistant winemaker at the cult Tuscan estate Ornellaia, where she had previously worked, during the 2001 vintage, in the laboratory.

However, a chance encounter that year with Eric Narioo – founder of UK importer Les Caves de Pyrene and a key figure in the natural wine scene (and now Martens’ husband) – redirected her path to Sicily.

‘Etna was very different back in 2007,’ Martens says. ‘I was working for Andrea Franchetti at Passopisciaro. A few cult names from that versante [‘slope’] were on the rise, like Girolamo Russo and Alberto Graci.’

Martens had already been exposed to natural wine producers through Narioo, which convinced her to adopt a low-intervention approach.

The first Vino di Anna red, 95% Nerello Mascalese, 5% Nerello Capuccio (co-planted), was made in 2008.

‘Until that time, I’d always known that if something didn’t work out, I could add sulphur, enzymes, or filter everything,’ she says.

‘We made our first wine by literally putting whole bunches, with no sulphur, into two mastelloni [‘wine tubs’]. There was so much energy in the wine! Producers told us we were crazy, while to the older locals it was reminiscent of their family wine.’

Now splitting her time between London and the village of Solicchiata, on the northern slope of Etna, Martens says that returning to Sicily always resets her.

‘Every time I land in Catania, I take off my watch, drive with an Italian flair up to the winery, and soak in the luminosity of the place,’ she says.

Martens attributes a profound shift in both her approach to production and her lifestyle to what she has learned on Etna, through others and through the terroir itself.

‘I’ve been asked why I used to rush the wines,’ she says. ‘Energetic as I am, when I get to the winery, the surroundings ground me.’

Italian wines made by Antipodeans

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