Nirmal Purja, mountaineer who scaled 14 of world's 8,000-metre peaks in record time, confirmed dead in Pak avalanche

Nirmal “Nims Dai” Purja, the celebrated Nepal-born mountaineer who scaled all 14 of the world's 8,000-metre peaks in a record six months and six days, has been confirmed dead after an avalanche struck his expedition on Broad Peak in Pakistan-occupied Kashmir (PoK).

Purja, 43, was confirmed dead on Saturday by his expedition company, Elite Exped, bringing to an end a two-day search operation after an avalanche swept through a group of climbers on the 8,047-metre peak on Thursday.

“It is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak,” Elite Exped said in a statement.

The company also confirmed the deaths of Purja's climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung, known as "Yukta", and Nima Sherpa. Several other members of the expedition also lost their lives in the avalanche.

The avalanche struck on July 30 as the team was climbing between Camp 2 and higher elevations on Broad Peak in the Karakoram range in PoK. The entire expedition lost communication after the avalanche, while rescue operations were hampered by poor weather and the continued risk of further avalanches.